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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.
These bikes should be able to handle good vibrations and a bit of tension once in while
I did the Michaux Dual Sport in central Pennsylvania yesterday on my XChallenge and it was a total blast. The bike performed flawlessly! The morning was about 50 miles and the afternoon was about 45. There were a ton of gravel roads, some nice rhythm sections with high berms and lots of rocks, and a few step uphills and downhills with big rocks. I only did 4 of the options/hero sections that were rated B and C, and I can honestly say they were very challenging with my high seat height and on a big bike. Most guys were on 450s or 350s, and there were a bunch of two strokes.
Glad to say that I finished the day with only one major fall on an off camber big rock section that I took a bad line on. I skidded the skid plate over a rock, glanced off of a tree and lost my balance totally. Nothing broke on the bike and I had a good laugh trying to flip it over and on to the tight trail alone.
Now for the pics:
Last year ~
This year ~
Pic of my 450 at the Hammer Run (because i know you guys like pics)
and a couple of recent pics of my HP2 - no it is never this clean
Nice collection you've got there !
I had this exact same problem with my XC. How did you go about fixing it? Must be a common fault.
I purchased a new fuel pump. Which works fine but does not fit into the BMW holder as well as the OEM unit. Also the filter bag DOES NOT fit onto the bottom of the pump in a manner in which it will stay put. You will have to modify the unit to get these parts to fit well.
I found out which wire was blown out. ( for me it was one wire. the brown one outside the tank, corresponding to the black wire inside the tank). Inside the tank there is plenty enough extra wire to cut the wire. I then drilled a hole in the top of the tank slightly bigger than the wire, pulled the wire through the top, sealed the hole with J&B plastic weld, and connected it to the brown wire which I also cut from the plug. Put everything back into place ( after figuring out I needed a new gasket on the tank....) and have a ton of slab miles on the bike and a few good off road miles as well. No leaks and no failures.
Anyone have an easy fix/aftermarket piece to buy for an exhaust guard that goes over the header in the circled area just in front of the OEM exhaust guard? I find when I'm standing up I sometimes scoot my leg in and touch the exhaust and I'd rather not burn more holes in my pants. Obviously farkles is the answer and not "paying attention" or "fixing your goddamn riding you look like a kangaroo trying to procreate with a football, son."
Even though I changed my stock torpedo exhaust for an SR Racing one which came wit ha little different heat shield (awesome sound, btw), I got simple heat tape bought on ebay for $15, the golden color fiberglass type, and simply overlap-wrapped it. It's not as good as a heat shield depicted here >> http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/russification-of-bmw-g650x.948227/ << but still, it completely alleviates a burned pant/boot on an accidental light brush up against the said exhaust pipe. If you really hold onto it, it is still quite hot and will burn though. I will post a picture once im home in a day.
EDIT: with the stock pipe.. just found it cleaning the comp.. this is almost it, but should give you an idea. This one was born from the thought not of the pants but rather the reservoir catching less radiant heat.
I'll have to give it a try - thanks!
On my XCountry I use the left footpeg as others have mentioned: LINKY
Maybe these pics will help, sorry no closeups: LINKY
FARFS !!!! Floppy Ass Rear Fender Syndrome !!! Here's how I solved it, and a template for you to use to cut your own support bracket: LINKY
Well, I certainly have a problem, I have had coolant leaking from the weep hole under the water pump, I ordered the water pump kit, extra pinion gear and shift shaft seal and decided to replace it last weekend.
The first obstacle was removing the obstinate right hand side swingarm bushing - I ended up using a 8mm bolt screwed into the threads of the bushing and then found a slide hammer kit at Autozone - it was part of their "free" rental tool fleet, an $80 deposit brought it home, they refunded the $80 when I brought it back. It kinda looks like this:
I used the 3-jaw triangular piece threaded onto the slide hammer and put the 8mm bolt through one of the slots:
After applying heat and 30-40 HARD hits with the slide hammer (while rotating it) the asshole bushing came out, the bearing was devoid of grease, once I cleaned everything up and applied grease the bearing turns fine. Once I solve the next major problem (below) I plan on freezing the shit out of the bushing before putting it back into the swingarm/frame and then CAREFULLY torquing the three allen head bolts.
So, there I was - bash guard and rear wheel removed, rear brake hanging from subframe, swingarm removed, header/silencer/exhaust sensor removed, subframe rotated up slightly, left foot peg/shift lever/clutch cable/clutch lever removed, cast frame+kickstand removed, clutch cover removed and then....DUN DUN DUN....
I'm not really sure when this happened, I'm kinda thinking it happened AFTER I put on a bendy steel shift lever from a Dakar shortly after purchasing the used bike, poor throttle control/lack of speed/lack of clutch feathering was probably the culprit:
Yes, that poor hapless soul under the bike is me, you can't really see it but my left leg is kinda squished between the rock and the bike and is getting pretty warm.
OK, enough complaining and back to the problem at hand:
If you have ever examined the inner left hand side cover, you may have noticed that it's particularly thick where the shift shaft goes through. This means the the cover can't be removed unless the shift shaft is pretty damn straight.
What to do? I'm thinking the following steps:
- Place original beefy aluminum shift lever on shaft pointing up and slightly to the right as that's how the shaft is bent
- Heat the shit out of the shaft using blowtorch being careful not to burn the inner cover or get the case too hot - a infrared thermometer would be handy as would spraying the cover with cool water (the outer clutch cover will have to be off for this as the lever won't go on the shaft with it on)
- Put a big ol' cheater pipe over the aluminum shift lever, the pipe has to be large enough diameter to go over the folding tip/bend/weakening holes that were previously drilled in it
- Pry downward with progressively harder pulls and examine the state of the shaft after each pull
- Animal sacrifice/prayer that the shaft won't break clean off and the transmission will still change gears
Splitting the motor would really suck, and I'm not sure I'm up for the task. Any advice from the collective?
Sounds like a plan. There's cheaper alternative now when the shaft breaks though.
A member of the German X forum came up with the solution of cutting the shaft (inside of the engine cover) at an angle, get a new/used shaft cut at the same angle and desired length, have a steel bush with a few holes in it made and weld everything together (weld up the holes basically)
Pictures can be found here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/wolfgang_l/sets/72157656611458682/
Shafts don't cost much and all the BMW Rotax 650 shifter shafts are the same.
I agree. Though the Leo relies totally on the single weld it is so much lighter than the stock thermonuclear cat exhaust you would think it would be able to hold. For strength but mainly to prevent the Leo bracket from rotating, I added a 2nd attachment point on my XCountry to my rack, you could do something similar with a simple strap like I did: LINKY
Great link - thanks! Nice to have another option should the shaft break.
Man, your website is a great resource, great idea on the support bracket.
I put a hole in y radiator and need t get it fixed. After that I will need to refill the syastem. What type of fluid is reccomended? Mine is a blue color like wind sheild wiper fluid.
Any modern (car/bike) coolant will do. The colour doesn't matter. You'll need about one litre of the stuff. Make sure you bleed it properly.
Or, if you run a luggage rack, here is my solution for FARFS. Two small adel clamps holding up the whole thing, including the shovel-mudflap. Fantastic results. Crash tested too.
the better (i think) exhaust bracket!
Very small spacer = very small bending moment on the very short bolt... this is what is holding up my SR Racing can. Excellent results! ENJOY