BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.

  1. TwoTiredRiders

    TwoTiredRiders Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    408
    Location:
    The Keystone State
    I did get the plug apart with a small flat screw driver. And then the sensor easily unscrewed from the cylinder with a small amount of coolant spilling out. I have a new sensor ordered so will see if that allows the fan to shut off vs run all the time as it does now. I will update this thread after that.
    image.jpg
  2. XallengeXccepted

    XallengeXccepted Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2014
    Oddometer:
    399
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    Does anyone know which fuse in the fuse box corresponds to the fuse for the ECU? I'm looking for an easy way to reset the ECU short of unplugging the battery, which is a PITA.
  3. Sh4ft

    Sh4ft Beater

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    127
    Location:
    SL,UT
    The one closest to the front wheel. To check, remove it and turn the key on,...
  4. flying.moto

    flying.moto Earthbound Misfit, I Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2007
    Oddometer:
    552
    Location:
    South of Gorman
    The key thing! I almost broke mine off too. The problem when it binds for me was always caused by not fully inserting the key. It tends to not go in all the way, get stuck and then it easily bends at the weak point. No pic right now as I'm at Reno Air Races away from my bike... but, every time i open the cap, I go easy, then make sure its in all the way. Then try again, then press the cap in and try again. Never failed yet, knock on wood. I ordered blanks from my local BMW dealer and had them cut for spares.

    Also make sure your radiator is good, water pump, coolant level and condition... etc. The rad on these bikes is borderline too small in my opinion. Mine cycles, but more of then than any bike I've ever owned in warm weather.
  5. Sh4ft

    Sh4ft Beater

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    127
    Location:
    SL,UT
    This is the key blank that I used:

    http://www.mrlock.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3773

    Unfortunately unless you order 5, shipping is expensive.

    For what it's worth, a local locksmith shop (that has been in business for decades) actually had key blanks that would have worked. When I was looking for key blanks on ebay, only a couple would have actually worked after I examined the photos carefully.
  6. advFord

    advFord Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2012
    Oddometer:
    689
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
  7. swamp

    swamp Shut up. Ride.

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,653
    Location:
    lower appalachia, Alabama
  8. jdwhite

    jdwhite Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2014
    Oddometer:
    141
    Location:
    Lusitanistan
  9. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,764
    Location:
    Герма́ния
    I wouldn't return to heated grips after I've got me Gerbing heated gloves. They're the best thing for winter riding !
    Yukon Ho! likes this.
  10. swamp

    swamp Shut up. Ride.

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,653
    Location:
    lower appalachia, Alabama
    ya the heated gear is nice. I do like heated grips though. it only gets unbearably cold here for about three weeks out of the year. often dirtbike gloves and heated grips are enough to keep from screaming. I ordered a set of the oxford "adventure" grips and an Alaskan Leather full dualsport seat pad (I hope it fits right). does anyone have pictures of a sheep skin on their xC?
  11. XallengeXccepted

    XallengeXccepted Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2014
    Oddometer:
    399
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    I've got Oxford grips on mine, courtesy of previous owner.
    swamp likes this.
  12. jjmead1

    jjmead1 now THAT"S a bike!

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2010
    Oddometer:
    844
    Location:
    don't boulder my Golden, CO
    SO the soldering of the ignition wires failed me the other day.....

    Note to others, recheck that before a major trip. :muutt
  13. DyrWolf

    DyrWolf Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2012
    Oddometer:
    2,078
    Location:
    RICHMOND VA
    Save me 400 pages of reading. My gas cap is leaking. TT no longer sells a gas cap. If I get a factory cap what do I do about the lock. I was told by the dealer the cylinder is separate and I need to order one and they will key it but if its separate can I use the old one?
  14. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling DNF

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2014
    Oddometer:
    4,588
    Location:
    NYC
    Replace the gaskets in your gas cap with stuff that's made to be submerged in gas. Would you like to (use the search function) to know more?
  15. DyrWolf

    DyrWolf Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2012
    Oddometer:
    2,078
    Location:
    RICHMOND VA
    I would rather you just come fix it for me
    jjmead1 likes this.
  16. jonnyc21

    jonnyc21 Trials Ninja

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,558
    Location:
    Boise aria
    There is a post just a page or two back with a refrance to the O-ring to replace as the most common fix.
  17. MATT0404

    MATT0404 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2011
    Oddometer:
    506
    Location:
    PA
    Installed a new Unifilter and pre-filter this morning and went out for a ride. The bike noticeably more responsive and a bit louder under heavy throttle. A little pricey at $123 for the set but worth it imho.
    swamp likes this.
  18. PartTimeTravel

    PartTimeTravel Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2003
    Oddometer:
    552
    I'm after a part number for G650xc cush drive rubbers. Bmw Germany have them on back order and apparently it's been that way for 1.5 years or more.

    Does anyone know of any alternative part / part number / details please?
  19. swamp

    swamp Shut up. Ride.

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,653
    Location:
    lower appalachia, Alabama
    ha! I like the way you think
  20. Sh4ft

    Sh4ft Beater

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    127
    Location:
    SL,UT
    As you might recall, I had a bent selector shaft and needed to replace the water pump....

    I ended up putting the cast frame, swingarm and rear wheel back on the bike and then took the bike to a friend of a friend that is a welder/metalworker. He put some rod stock in his lathe and drilled a hole about 11.5mm in diameter, this allowed the rod to fit snugly over the splines but would not fit over the shaft itself which is 12mm in diameter. We then put a cheater bar on the rod and carefully bent the selector shaft back to where it appeared to be straight.

    [​IMG]

    Once I got the bike back home, I took the wheel/swingarm/cast frame off again(!) but the inner case needed some persuasion with a mallet and the blunt plastic end of a screwdriver before it came off, I replaced the wp seals, wp impeller/shaft, both pinion gears, inner case gasket, clutch cover gasket, clutch basket lock washer and the shifter shaft seal. The bike is now all buttoned up and shifting fine. The new seals/gaskets are doing their job with no leaks. I am just hoping that the shifter shaft wasn't weakened too much.

    Some notes:
    - If the shifter shaft is just slightly bent, removing the water pump impeller from the water pump shaft (punch out the pin) and removing both inner and outer clutch baskets might get you some wiggle room
    - It's difficult to see if the shifter shaft is bent, the definitive way is to take off the rear wheel/brake/swingarm/header/cast frame piece/shift lever/engine mount bolts/outer clutch cover and try to remove the inner cover. You might get an idea that it is bent if you take off the shift lever and remove the shifter shaft seal - try to hold something straight (small allen wrench) against it and see if it is straight all the way out to the end of the splines, compare measurements from around the shaft, otherwise you just don't have a frame of reference.
    - If you removed the outer clutch basket, while reinstalling, getting it to mesh with the two (oil pump) plastic gears (inner basket gear) and the crank gear (outer basket gear) was somewhat time consuming, or you might get lucky, make sure it is fully seated. Snooker took a good photo of the gears and the back of the outer basket: http://mattsnook.com/bmw/bmwXCountry/RekluseClutch/IMG_5155.JPG
    - 10 nM torque on the clutch release lever bolt was too high, I cracked the lever trying to get the torque to that miniscule amount, a new one is $24 and I will probably order one (unless tbarstow has an undamaged, used one he wants to sell.) When I get another I will use loctite and just hand snug the bolt.
    - Bleeding the coolant is an exercise in patience. I had to loosen then tighten the bleeder screw in the cylinder head twice - once during the initial fill, then again after I had topped off the radiator. There was still a lot of massaging of the hoses and just plain waiting for the thing to quit burping. Once the coolant level in the radiator stayed static I topped it off, filled the overflow reservoir to about half way and it's good
    - There is a washer on the water pump shaft that goes between the pinion gear and the case, if you removed the impeller from the shaft the washer might fall off when you remove the inner case, make sure you find it
    - I used authentic Loctite 243 (found at Napa auto parts) for several nuts/bolts as specified by the RepROM and instead of Optimoly grease I used Honda 60 Moly grease which was $15/tube from a local Honda car dealer
    - The round clutch cover is definitely worn inside the hole where the clutch actuator arm has wallowed it out, I will be ordering the 2009 clutch cover from BMW and the bearings from Amazon soon. It will be interesting to see if I need to grind off the end of the clutch actuator shaft... As usual, Snooker did an excellent write up: http://mattsnook.com/bmw/bmwXCountry/ClutchSideCover/index.htm

    Edit - added notes