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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.
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can we sticky this on the first post?
when I replaced my coolant I had some issues with the "hot" light coming on even after burping and shaking and filling etc. I finally decided to remove the bleed bolt and start the motor. it farted out all the air real quick ! no issues now.
man, I hope I never have to deal with a bent shift shaft.
You've clearly never seen me fix anything.
No alternative part will fit as far as I'm aware but you can use strips of innertube between the hub and cushdrive rubber. Just place one strip per rubber at the side where the rubber "cushion" is thickest.
I'm looking into an Aprilia part as an exact copy. Hopefully will get some information in a couple weeks time. Will do the inner tube fix for now. Thanks.
Has anyone confirmed the Aprilia part as yet?
To all running a HotRod Welding X-Tank, or a similiarly placed auxiliary tank feeding the main through the stock vent under the seat -
1) Has anyone tried installing a paper fuel filter between the aux and main tanks?
2) My X-tank is vented through one similar to this:
When bike is dropped, it leaks! Are these vent supposed to be one-way valves or just a through-hole? Are they supposed to filter incoming air of dust?
How about OEM fittings found on motorcross bikes, any better?
I have had a plastic fuel filter exactly like what you show in picture #1 between my TT tank and the main tank for the last 18 months with zero problems.
Not had the filter but did have the vent. Taken that off very quickly as you'll lose it at some point in time. Just put some piece of suitable hose on the vent and cabletie it to the bike. If you put a filter on the end of the breather hose it won't suck in dust.
If you are worried about losing the check valve, put a zip tie or hose clamp around it and it won't fall off. I can't imagine enough air being sucked into the breather hose to cause any issues with dust.
rear brake tension spring... mine seems to have gone missing. BMW has none in stock and I kind of need it (trying out for GS trophy this weekend...) any hardware store alternatives?
If I am not mistaken they are generic Brembo brakes, not BMW specific.
Call up KTM dealer possibly?
P.S. hope I am thinking of right bike in my fleet..
All the fuel that's used on any trip is replaced by air. That air might not be squeeky clean if you ride in dusty conditions a lot. Just a thought mind.
The other benefit of using a piece of hose strapped to the bike is that if the fuelcap is not tightened properly you're less likely to lose that as turning is prevented (up to a degree) by the hose not being able to turn.
last night I installed the Oxford "adventure" heated grips and mounted the Alaskan Leather full saddle dual sport sheep skin cover.
the throttle tube on the xchallenge is waaay different than a dirt bike throttle tube. I used a knife to cut off all the ridges from the tube. I wasn't able to get the grip on without removing them. I have a shorai lithium battery which is a lot smaller than the lead acid one. all of the grip wiring fit in the spaces near the battery. I used a grinder to grind down the left mirror mount so that I could mount the heat controller to it. fit perfect after that (the kit includes some new bolts and collar spacers). the oxfords get a lot hotter, a lot faster than the stock bmw grips that I had on my Sertao and r1200gs. I think ill enjoy them. if you are thinking about doing this mod, it might be worth buying a standard dirt bike throttle tube that fits the xchallenge housing (not sure where to find one). i used a shit load of gorilla glue and a 1/2 tube of the rubber cement that comes in a tube-patch-kit to stick them on there.
The Alaskan Leather seat cover is absolutely amazing. it fits perfect and its sooo comfortable. very, very high quality. ill be giving them more of my money for sure. they are custom made for every bike and it only took 3 days to arrive! made in the USA. ill post a picture of that tomorrow.
That's good to know! I shall install one over winter to help protect the main tank.
I don't think the crapload of dirt and water in the bottom of my Xtank could get in through the gas cap...So that leaves only the breather hose responsbile.
Do you have a filter on yours? Can't think of what would work and be discreet (i.e. not a 2nd paper fuel filter! )
The original breather hose (which is taken off if you've got an extra tank being fed into the standard tank) runs all the way to the bottom of the bike so it sucks in all the stuff that's down there. Run the bike through deep water and yep, it will suck in water through the breather rather than air.
If you have a standard tank, just cut off the breather hose at a convenient length and fit one of these plastic filters on the end and let it sit under your seat or such.
Only just noticed you have an X-tank as well. Must have been through the breather I'd think. Can't explain it otherwise.
Ok I took my gas cap apart and will replace the oring at the lock. I just flipped the big flat seal over, the back side looks fine . I will make a new one or more if anyone wants a spare next time I get to Pittsburgh. The question is should I lube the area that the lock sits in and with what? Maybe some graphite . That area should stay free of fuel. Thanks for the help.
Those pretty little breather caps are typically not check valves nor are they filters. I've made similar contraptions by using a tire air valve cap with a piece of retaining wire run through it. They keep big objects out and act as a baffle to retain sloshing fuel.
If you are getting dirt in your tank through your vent, you must be riding is some terribly, terribly dusty conditions. I suggest running the vent hose away from the tank and attaching some sort of filtering media to prevent intrusion into the tank. You can buy small filters like a weedeater etc. fuel line filter that normally goes inside a tank and sticking it in the end of your vent line. You could also just wrap the end of the vent line with a piece of an old T shirt fabric.
Go down to Lowes or similar place for one of these-
Usually no lube is found in that area. You could dust it with graphite or even a little silicone etc.
I wish you luck on this. I've been there and done that. Eventually, the tide will return to the beach and your nice sand castle will be swept away. The stock cap will eventually leak again.
The only long-term fix aside from improvising your own cap is to buy a Touratech gas cap while they are still available. I've posted the part number in the past either here or on the XCountry thread.
BMW G650X swingarm service
original post 8708 XCo thread
Okay, coming fresh off the steering head bearing replacement, I tackled the rear swingarm. I may have some experience that will help others doing the same job.
I had fully expected to find my bearings dry and rusty since there have been accounts of these being not adequately greased at the factory. In fact, with about 24,000 miles on the XCountry, the bearings were very good, soaked with grease and needed no attention.
Since, I had already purchased all the needed seals, I proceeded to remove and replace all the seals as well as clean out the old grease and re-lube the needle bearings.
1. Begin by removing the rear wheel and everything attached to the swingarm - cables, wires, chain and sprocket guards etc.
After doing this, support the rear of the swingarm with something to hold it up.
Using an Allen bit and extension remove the bolt and nut that holds the lower shock absorber eye on the swing arm. You do not need to remove the shock.
2. Then, with a hex Allen bit, unscrew the rider's left side swingarm pin from the frame. Note there is a plastic washer or spacer under its head. This pin screws through a flanged inner race and tightens together when this pin is torqued down.
3. Remove the three small screws from the flange of the pin on the right side. Although this pin has a hex recess, it is not screwed into anything but rather presses into the internal race of the needle bearings. There is no tightening torque on this side.
The shoulder of this pin can become corroded/crudded-up and stuck to the frame member bore through which it is inserted before going into the enclosed needle bearing cup on the right side of the swingarm.
After removing the three small screws, you can turn the pin with a hex drive and hopefully it will break loose and part from the frame a little. It probably will not just come off.
I then took a sharpened screwdriver are carefully worked it into the crack between the flange and the frame. This moved the flanged pin out enough for me to insert a larger screwdriver. Working the pin with an Allen and gently twisting the screwdriver easily got the pin free from the bike.
Even better, there is an 8MM threaded hole in the bottom of the hex hole into which you can thread a bolt etc and use a slide hammer etc to simply jerk the pin out if it is tight. Mine was not so tight.
(remove the outer 3 screws first!)
4. Once the two pins are out, you can work the swingarm free.
I was amazed at how light it is, less than 10 pounds total.
My needles looked good with plenty of grease still present.
5. Remove the 2 seals from left side swingarm ear by prying them out with a screwdriver.
This is the plastic washer/spacer and the old outside seal from the left ear. Note the recess into which the plastic washer/spacer fits on the swingarm casting.
6. The right side bearing is in a blind cup since it does not have a through-pin that tightens up on it. Remove the seal from the right side bearing cup.
7. This is everything set out in order of assembly.
From the picture left to right-
a. The right side flanged pin with sealing o-ring on it.
b. The right side inner race that goes into the needle bearing cup and then receives the flanged pin.
c. The right side seal that seals the right side bearing cup.
d. The flanged inner bearing race for the left side. Note the black plastic washer/spacer goes under the head of this flange not outside it. I have it sitting on the outside in this pic but it goes under the head of that flange.
e. The green inside needle bearing seal.
f. The green outside needle bearing seal.
g. The outside flanged pin with the black plastic washer/spacer under its head.
8. The bearings are pressed into the swingarm and must be pressed out if they need replacing. Read the service manual about installing new bearings since they must be pressed back in with enough depth to allow for the seals and spacers.
9. Clean and repack the needles with grease if you are not replacing them. Install new seals. Slip-in the inner races for the bearings being certain to have the plastic washer/spacer UNDER the flange of the inner race for the left side assembly. Also be certain that the plastic washers/spacers fit down into their machined recesses provided in the swingarm casting.
**********PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THESE PLASTIC SPACERS ON THE LEFT SIDE. BOTH OF THEM GO UNDER THE HEADS OF THEIR RESPECTIVE FLANGES AND THEY FIT DOWN INTO THE RECESSES IN THE SWINGARM EARS. WORK THE INSIDE WASHER/SPACER INTO ITS RECESS BEFORE INSERTING THE FLANGE INNER RACE INTO THE NEEDLES. THE OUTSIDE IS EASIER TO FIT SINCE YOU CAN SEE IT. *********
10. Using your swingarm support, work the swingarm back into proper position in the frame, slipping the shock absorber eye back to its slot and aligning the swingarm ears for their respective pins.
11. The manual says insert the right side pin first but I threaded in the left side a short distance first. I then greased up the right side pin and wiped some anti-seize compound inside the frame bore and inserted the pin into the bearing cup of the swingarm. The manual advised putting thread lock on the three small screws screws of the right side flange.
12. Install the wheel and chain along with everything that attaches to the swingarm.