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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.
Even warming it up and screwing it in when you check?
Yep. Only time I've known the exact amount is after filling the bike up during oil change.
I'm in the middle of a trip from San Francisco to Cabo San Lucas and guessing on my oil consumption. Had the oil pressure light come on three times now and topping off on the side of a Mexican road has been interesting...
I've been guessing the oil light comes on when it's more than half burned off. I added a liter yesterday midway between Loreto and La Paz but it came on intermittently at the outskirts of Cabo. Added another .5L but it's all guesswork.
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If you only extracted 1L. you've had very little oil in there or you've been doing it wrong.
Letting the old oil out: Let bike warm up, kill engine (yes you do switch it off for this ) Drain oil tank, Take filter out, drain sump.
Fit new filter (i always soak that with fresh oil), fill oil tank with 1.7L. start bike and let it run for a minute, switch off, fill another 0/6 L. and you should be good. Oil level as seen on the dipstick: Max level up to the xxx section so NOT at the upper end of the XXX section.
Normal checking is: Warm up engine untill fan kicks in, let the bike stand for a minute or 2 (engine off), check oil level keeping the bike upright, screwing in the dipstick fully to check.
Keeping bike upright is important too.
If nunaddict added 1lt between loretto/la Paz and .5 to Cabo it isn't a level checking issue. If there is no obvious oil leak then the engine is burning it. Have someone follow you, if it smokes out the exhaust under acceleration it's your rings. if after deceleration ( down a hill throttle closed) and then hard acceleration it smokes it's your valve guides. Either way if it's smoking carry extra oil and fill at each gas stop (to see how much your using) Fill until the level "just" touches bottom of dip stick ( just touching xxx mark) make sure you screw the dip stick all the way in when checking. And also make sure the bike is as upright as possible when checking. Also get a couple of spare spark plugs. (They will eventually oil foul if you are burning oil). Make sure you have a long skinny spark plug wrench also. Ps you have two plugs make sure not to mix up the plug cap order when remove and replace.
Have fun in Baja!!!
The oil pressure switch is located on the motor above the oil filter and only comes on when oil pressure is low, not because the tank is low. If the switch is coming on due to the volume of oil in the system it is far below .5 liters and is low in the engine as well as the tank.
See Duchgit's oil change instructions above. After the initial step where 1.7 liters is added, cranking the motor fills the crank case, pressurizes the system and switches the light to off. After this the light should not come on even if the additional .6 liters is not added.
My X has 30k miles and doesn't burn enough oil to notice between changes.
Hey fellow X-riders, looks like HDB agreed to make an x-challenge-compatible bracket for their Rallye Lite set-up (and possibly manufacture the dash mount I was mocking up) if there are +5 takers. To ensure we have a central point of discussion, sign-up and to allow the HDB team to respond to questions I created a separate thread, but below is the copy+paste of the content:
[please note I'm not a associated with HDB]
After some back and forth, the guys at Highway Dirtbikes agreed to make a limited run of a special mounting bracket to mount their awesome Rallye Lite Kits on the G650 Xchallenge / Xcountry. Only catch is there needs to be minimum 5 takers (well, me +4).
The reason for the 'limited run' is due to the unique 90mm 2-bolt pattern on the top clamp of G650X vs the currently more prevalent 4-bolt 110 or 106mm designs used by KTM and others. HDB needs to modify their existing top clamp bracket to accommodate our bike's unique bolt pattern configuration.
On the table is also production of a G650x-specific dash relocation bracket (similar to this design for KTM) to mount on top of the HDB top clamp. I've mocked-up a similar bracket on my own and am waiting for the 3D print-out sample to come in to check fit and finish before sending to CNC the 'final' design. Otherwise, if anyone can provide HDB a Solidworks file of the dash they can do it on their own, exactly like the KTM design (in my opinion the best route as it ensures the most refined solution).
HDB Rallye Lite Kits are an amazing set-up for dualsporting, rally or long-distance travel and this is a unique opportunity to snag one of their kits for the unicorn bike that is the Xchallenge.
If you ride a G650x and are interested please sign up or comment below. As I'm sure questions will follow, please fire away.
I've been wanting to get rid of the wobbly rear fender for a while but didn't really like the available aftermarket options.
So today I took a saw and shortened the original fender. It's solid now!
I did have to sacrifice the licenseplate light, but since the plate is illuminated by the rear light I'll take the risk.
For reference, the starting point:
Cut some pieces off:
Fill the gap with a redundant part of the fender to create a smooth surface (instead of the original bulge):
No more gap:
Weld pieces together with a soldering iron:
Reinstall everything, mount licenseplate and indicators. (notice that the licenseplate is secured with three bolts, should my plasticweld ever let go, the licenseplate won't)
And the result:
Thanks for all the info about the oil. My buddy who's riding with me confirmed there's a bit of black smoke but not sure about when it happens. Will check when we hit the road again.
What's odd to me is that I still can't get a reading on the dipstick even after putting in 2L at the beginning of the trip in El Cajon.
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Just wanted to show you my dash layout, seems to work fine. I have a cig. charger and a double usb charger
Unlikely but there is a possibility that one of the two oil pumps is not working as it should or the non-return valve behind the oil filter isn't working properly.
I'd do an oil change starting with fresh facts and work it from there.
Black smoke is a sign of too rich a mixture. Blue smoke is burnt oil.
I would say you need to put more oil in when you change the oil. I end up putting in 3 full quarts when I change the oil to get mine to the top of the dipstick.
I use this sight for reference for oil changes:
Mine will use maybe 1/2 quart between changes.
You may have damaged your engine from low oil level. You should not run it if there is no oil on the stick.
+1 on changing oil to start from scratch. As I remember total oil required (with filter change, not necessarily need here) is 2.3ltr. Slightly less without filter change.
If you get a significant amount out of the sump (not the oil tank) then the bad oil pump etc. idea is a real possibility. That means to much oil is sitting in the sump and not pumping back to the tank.
I remember most of the oil coming from the oil plug and little coming from the tank. Any suggestions for checking/repairing the oil pumps in Baja?
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You have to take the left side cover off to check the oil pump and intermediate oil pump wheel.
I would go with an oil change and see what comes out of the sump and filter.
What tbarstow said - left side clutch cover off, then you would have to remove the clutch and both clutch baskets to repair the oil pumps. I'm not sure if you can get a visual on the plastic oil pump gears without removing the clutch baskets.
The clutch basket nut is difficult to remove, BMW sells a special tool - I didn't want to buy the tool, nor did I have an impact wrench so I had to improvise to keep the inner basket from rotating:
To remove the clutch basket nut you have to bend a lock washer back straight - you might be able to re-use it. This is Snookers page for installing a Rekluse clutch but it details removal of the clutch and clutch baskets:
Oil pump replacement from RepROM:
Just to add to the oil level discussion-i have found myself not bothering to check the level as frequently as i would like,because on a trip with luggage and tank bag it all needs to be removed to get the seat off.
What i did,can be found somewhere in my build thread,basically i permanently attached a clear tube to the oil reservoir drain tube,as you would for an oil change, and routed upwards.
To check oil now,i can simply unblock the opposite end,hold it near the oil tank indentations(i checked how high it needs to be against the dipstick) and crack open the bleed screw.
Amazing! Meccano to the rescue. Take that LEGO!
This is my new want bike. Looks tough to find so any body considering selling?
There's a couple in the flea market now and at least one on craigslist in Raleigh.