BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.

  1. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    From memory you need clamps with a range from 25 to 30 mm. Might as well change them all as the original ones might start to lose their seal over time.
    Fasco likes this.
  2. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    Nicely done that Matt :beer

    Looking forward to do that trail with you in a few years !
    Must get me some JB weld as well. Good stuff hearing the stories about it.

    Cheers, Ard
    octopusenvy and Len like this.
  3. Len

    Len Long timer Supporter

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    That is what I wanted to hear.
    Is this the one you are talking about? https://rekluse.com/product/adventure-bike-exp-clutch-kit/

    I remember seeing that video, you picked a good line and rode it like you owned it.

    Since I haven't replaced my clutch cover yet.... and it will already be opened up... I'm running out of excuses not to spend the money....
  4. MJS

    MJS Long timer

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    I would try and ride a bike with Rekluse if you can. I have had the Z-Start Pro on a KTM 950, and the EXP on a KTM 500 and my wife's 350. The EXP works better than the Z-Start IMO. They do what they say but I don't like them and removed them from the bikes. I thought my wife would want to keep hers but she has also decided that she doesn't like it.

    The two issues with the Rekluse. If you stop on a hill you will have no rear wheel engine brake. This can be important if yo need to turn the bike around or cannot put your left foot down (can't cover the rear brake). The bigger issue is lack of clutch control. If you use the clutch at low speeds the Rekluse gives very inconsistent control. Think of trials technique type stuff. You're always using the hand clutch to fight the Rekluse. Problem is the Rekluse engagement varies with engine speed.

    I can see the benefit to the Rekluse in some situations. But in a lot of ways it really is a bandaid for for poor clutch control. Ever see a Rekluse auto clutch on a trials bike? The Rekluse manual clutch OTOH is a nice piece of kit.

    YMMV. :freaky
    cgguy09 and Dutchgit like this.
  5. XallengeXccepted

    XallengeXccepted Been here awhile

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    Great information everyone, thank you for your input. I'm still on the fence about it, however.

    The Rekluse has been in the back of my mind ever since a trip I took that had some pretty nasty climbs through loose boulders. I ended up frying my clutch on that trip, and couldn't help but think the Rekluse would have been hugely beneficial for those types of climbs. I also had issues keeping the bike from detonating/pinging and stalling while trying to take off once stopped on the steep climbs. It was Poker Flat in Downieville if anyone is familiar with the area.
    Len likes this.
  6. XallengeXccepted

    XallengeXccepted Been here awhile

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    So change of topic. I have been having an issue with front end shimmy at highway speeds. It typically sets in at about 70 to 75 MPH indicated. It is not a full on tank slapper, but it just starts wiggling until I let off the throttle and slow back down. It is even worse if I am in any kind of turn on the freeway.

    From everything I have heard, this is not normal for this bike. So I really want to figure out what has gone wrong so I can enjoy this bike's ability to cruise easily at 80 MPH+ on the highway.

    It has always done this since I have owned it, and I have gone through 3 different sets of tires. Tire choice does not seem to matter much, nor does tire pressure. I have tried everything from 16 PSI to 32 PSI.

    I have used:
    • Michelin Dessert rear with MT-21 front
    • Mitas E-07 rear with TKC-80 front
    • Pirelli Scorpion XCMH front and rear (current setup)
    I have also tried with and without a front windscreen, and it makes no difference.

    Has anyone else had this issue and solved it? If so, what did you do? I am currently contemplating replacing the headset bearings and all wheel bearings even though I don't think they are an issue. The headset maybe has a very slight notch at center line, but I don't think that would be enough to cause this.

    Any thoughts?
  7. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling DNF

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    What kind of fender do you have? I got that with this acerbis fender http://www.treatland.tv/v/vspfiles/photos/black-dirt-fender-1580-3905-2T.jpg but it got stolen (wtf people, who steals a fender?) and I replaced it with this one and it doesn't wobble anymore. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/15023/i/acerbis-universal-supermoto-front-fender
  8. XallengeXccepted

    XallengeXccepted Been here awhile

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    I am running the stock fender, but I do have the Touratech mudguard added on. I would be surprised if it was catching enough wind to cause this headshake though. Whatever it is, is causing the whole bike to squirm back and forth. I can feel it both front and rear.
  9. jonnyc21

    jonnyc21 Trials Ninja

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    Strange you ask, I have in fact seen a Rekluse on a trials bike once, the guy had converted it to a left hand rear brake with it as well. Having a trials bike myself I found it strange and the one ride I had on it had me clearly convinced it was not the correct application for it. :imaposer

    My vote, Rekluse is a good option for some but myself I will stick with having a standard clutch.
    Len likes this.
  10. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    It might be down to your suspension. Are the forks peeking through the top triples ? If so slide them down until only the cover sits proud. Alternatively let some air out of the rear shock so it sits a bit lower. (just to see if stability has improved on the highway.)
  11. jonnyc21

    jonnyc21 Trials Ninja

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    First thought would be the front spokes are not trued correctly... I would also loosen up and re-tighten the front end including the triples, steering head barrings, axle, etc. I would also say check the tire balance and maybe the front axle for defects...

    There are some edge case situations that can be from the rear of the bike, though I wouldn't expect this to be the case, such as a rear swing-arm miss alignment (barring, bent, etc.), rear tire alignment or spokes not true, etc.

    FYI: Most of what I listed is because of your comment "It is even worse if I am in any kind of turn on the freeway"

    Best of luck
  12. XallengeXccepted

    XallengeXccepted Been here awhile

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    Thanks Dutchgit. My forks were originally a little lower because I had my rear lowered by an inch when I got rid of the air shock. I am actually running a Yacugar rear shock that has been lowered an inch, although you wouldn't be able to tell. It's still TALL! Actually taller than the air shock was the way I was riding it. But anyway, I have tried about 5 different positions for the forks now, and none of them seem to make much difference. They are currently only about 1/16th of an inch from the very top.

    Actually, it tends to shimmy less when I scoot way forward and weight the front. So if anything, it would seem to indicate the front needs to be lower. But I have tried that also, and it didn't help.

    Interesting thought about the wheel spokes, I hadn't even thought of that. I suppose it is worth a closer look.

    I have loosened and re-torqued the front end a couple of times per the factory manual, so it is probably not that.
    keepshoveling likes this.
  13. jonnyc21

    jonnyc21 Trials Ninja

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    I would be interested to know if you do find any issues with the spokes.

    Good luck! :thumb
  14. Len

    Len Long timer Supporter

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    Well there was that little fling in South America....:thumb
  15. backyardorganics

    backyardorganics Dubletruble

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    Had a similar issue myself. The bike rode great and very solid, even holding top speed at full throttle for miles. Then after a while it started to get a shimmy which i would describe as more like a "wave" or long slow long wobble. After trying a bunch of different approaches and putting things back to stock the problem still continued, sometimes worse then others but the bike just didn't feel solid at high speeds. Finally figured out that the back of the fender would rub against the grill of the radiator at high speeds, probably because the suspension would compress just enough so when the front wheel was pointed straight it would touch the radiator grill. So i clipped off the end section on the back of the fender (about 10mm) so it easily cleared the radiator grill and the bike instantly went back to being solid at high speeds.

    PS: It should be noted that the bike had an aftermarket aluminum radiator grill and took a couple good hits to the radiator while playing on rocks and trail riding but looking at a friends bike that was stock showed there wasn't much clearance between them.
    CoatsEast likes this.
  16. Len

    Len Long timer Supporter

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    You trials riders bring a much higher level of skill to the table! Amazing to watch.
    I'm looking at a rock field I just want to live through and you are picking out a high rock to do a bank shot front wheel tap against to change course. :deal
    I can see how it would be a bad thing for clutch to slip instead of grab on your command.
  17. jonnyc21

    jonnyc21 Trials Ninja

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    Well 2 parts there, 1 is the fact I don't think a Recluse should ever be put on a trials bike (my opinion). and 2 is I don't want one on my bikes.
    Even then, plenty of people would do well to have a Rekluse and I am not one to say people shouldn't use them, they have there place for sure. Not having one just lets me pretend to be Graham Jarvis. :gdog - :imaposer
  18. gqelements

    gqelements Been here awhile

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  19. Square1

    Square1 Been here awhile Supporter

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    keepshoveling likes this.
  20. Square1

    Square1 Been here awhile Supporter

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