BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.

  1. Square1

    Square1 Been here awhile Supporter

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    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...MW-G_650_Xchallenge_0165,0195_&diagId=11_4671

    If there is nothing coming out of the weeping hole than you would not need the shaft kit.( PN 1151234351)

    How many miles on the bike?
    Do you loose coolant?

    Is the fluid seeping from your waterpump cover water?
    If yes maybe just the gasket #5 in the diagram above should do it.

    If it is Oil you have to investigate more where it comes from.

    M
    keepshoveling likes this.
  2. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    You don't even need a new gasket for the pump housing. Just some silicon sealant will do.
    keepshoveling likes this.
  3. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling DNF

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    If only there were a place where you could easily look at pictures of the bike. A sort of compilation of diagrams showing the different pieces and how they were assembled. Gosh, what would be clever is if you could monetize that and then someone could look at a piece and if they needed it they could just order it from there. How clever would that be?* :augie

    edit: it's three bolts and either a new gasket or just put on some sealant like dutchgit said. Either way, this is not something you need a mechanic for at all. Not that mechanics aren't great. They are. Just that you don't need one for this. Also, yes you should be fine as long as you keep it topped off. What would make me nervous is if the rate of leaking somehow increased without me knowing. Given how easy a fix it is, I would just take care of it now for ease of mind. You don't even have to take the hoses off for this particular job.
    cgguy09 and Dutchgit like this.
  4. mbfj40

    mbfj40 Been here awhile

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    I'd been un-successfully looking for a Z-Start Pro for a long time and jumped on one of the first EXP ones as soon as I heard they were available. I put one in my '08 XCountry and am very happy with it so far. I ran it for about 1000 miles with the "out of the box" springs. The middle of the road as far as engagement options. On my bike I found the "middle" springs to engage just a little too soon and full throttle right from an idle was a little abrupt, like dumping the clutch at too low an rpm and the engine would balk a little. I popped the side cover and swapped to the stiffer spring option, about a 10-15 min job. It's perfect now. Very smooth on either a leisurely or an abrupt blast away from a stop light. Just enough off idle slip/progressive engagement for fully loaded (camping-fishing gear) trail riding to allow for navigating ruts, log and stream crossings without fanning the clutch. Engine braking feels just like stock and slows the bike in any gear down to the speeds you would be pulling the clutch in anyway. Back it in Supermoto style if you like (my neighbor loves that)
    Bottom line for my bike and riding is that it works 100% as expected for me. I can run my highway gearing for 150+ miles on pavement trips at 75+mph and then pull onto a 80 mile dirt adventure just like I had dropped two teeth off the front sprocket. Without trying to start an "Oil discussion" thread, I'm running 10-40 Amsoil and it works great so far. Mobil One engages a little softer.
    mike
    XallengeXccepted likes this.
  5. XallengeXccepted

    XallengeXccepted Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the review on the EXP model. Oh boy, think my pocket book is about to get lighter. I'm doing a bunch of upgrades right now, including new Excel A60 rims, Shiver fork transplant and either the Rekluse or was thinking of gearing it down. Gearing down would obviously be cheaper. =)
  6. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    Put a 13 up front and take the scenic route. Way cheaper than any clutch. Bring a 15 for the long haul with you.
  7. XallengeXccepted

    XallengeXccepted Been here awhile

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    Course maybe I should just save my money and drop it on that Husqvarna FE 350 S I have been lusting over. A man can remain loyal to 2 bikes can't he?
  8. octopusenvy

    octopusenvy gravel grommit

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    you would be happier with the husaberg fe390 which the husky is a detuned baby version. sure they are no longer made, but what a bike and what a design! I am loyal to my fe570 and my X...so the answer is yes.
  9. XallengeXccepted

    XallengeXccepted Been here awhile

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    Unfortunately, since I live in the People's Republic of California, I need a street legal bike to be able to ride anywhere. Which is why I'm considering the 350 S.
  10. octopusenvy

    octopusenvy gravel grommit

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    the fe570 is street legal. not sure about the 390 but the 450 is as well. Years of riding on my X and then trying a 525 6days, borrowing a 530, and having a play on a 510 husky...the Husaberg 70degree motor blows them all away and it's incredibly reliable. I promise you it will be around for a long time to come, and parts are easy enough to get as most KTM bits fit. Just get yourself a gasket kit perhaps (I did). Sorry to hijack 650x and rave on about a Husaberg, but you started it ;)
    XallengeXccepted likes this.
  11. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling DNF

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    350 because it's plateable vs just a 300 2 stroke? If you're thinking of trailering to really gnarly trails I'd think a two stroke would be a better complement to the G650X but if you have to ride there on the highway or need a plate to go from trail to trail then the 350 (any of KTM/Beta/Husky) seems like the best currently available option. At least in my mind, the xchallenge is perfect for long trips on mixed pavement and dirt and on anything fast and not too technical and where it slips down to merely adequate is in long slab travel (needs an aftermarket seat) or in really technical stuff where its weight becomes a real disadvantage as compared to two strokes or bikes like the 350.
    seasider and octopusenvy like this.
  12. XallengeXccepted

    XallengeXccepted Been here awhile

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    Basically in California, any 2 stroke manufactured after 2002 gets a red sticker. Which means you can only ride it during certain seasons. And the entire late spring thru fall season is blacked out for most places. Which makes a 2 stroke pretty worthless in California.

    Sorry to go so far off topic everyone. Yes, it was my fault.
  13. snooker

    snooker AttitudeIsEverything

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  14. XallengeXccepted

    XallengeXccepted Been here awhile

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    So I was able to source a new set of wheel hubs, but when they arrived I noticed the rear seems pretty badly damaged. I was hoping for some feedback from others on this, because I don't know if it is an actual issue or not. I know my hub on my bike doesn't look like this and can't image what caused it. Bad wheel bearings maybe?

    Has anyone seen this type of damage to the cush drive before? And do you think it will affect the operation or longevity at all? I was planning on sending these off to Woody's to have some expensive Excel A60's superlaced onto them, but would hate to spend all that money if the hub is going to give me problems.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    You can see the edge surfaces are damaged as well:

    [​IMG]

    Thoughts?
    Boarder06 likes this.
  15. TobyG

    TobyG be happy :)

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    Looks a lot like it was ridden with damaged (to the extent that you hear them crunch) wheel bearings for a while.
    DAMHIK.



    What baffles me is the damage on the OD of the cush drive and the broken cush rubbers, though.
    cgguy09 likes this.
  16. DoubleM

    DoubleM Been here awhile Supporter

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    I am about to order new front and rear tk 80's for my x for the first time but cannot find what size tubes to order. Can anyone help me out? Also any particular brand you suggest?
  17. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    Where is the spacer that sits inside the sprocket carrier bearings ?

    Looks like the assembly has been used without it.

    Part: 36 31 7 708 742 SPACER TUBE
  18. XallengeXccepted

    XallengeXccepted Been here awhile

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    It is in there. I think I'm going to contact the seller and ask for a refund. I'm not comfortable with using this damaged hub to base my expensive rims off of.
    cgguy09 and tbarstow like this.
  19. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    The spacer between the bearings and the spacer that sits inside the bearings of the carrier ? If the space in the hub is missing the bearing on the carrier side might be pushed into the hub more than it should, leaving the carrier pushed against the hub. That's what the damage looks like.
  20. jonnyc21

    jonnyc21 Trials Ninja

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    ...
    +1

    This looks like damage that would be caused by exactly this.

    I know the BMW parts fish has the wrong bearings listed for the Cush Drive Carrier, maybe the former owner didn't figure this out and replaced them with the wrong ones? When I got a new set for my Cush Drive if I had put them in it would not have allowed the spacer to be put in place. When I figured out they where not the same size/type I went back to the shop and they couldn't tell me what was the correct set. So I ended up having to find the information on this forum and order the correct size from a barring shop in town.
    Dutchgit likes this.