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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.
No but I did lube it. Im going to replace it as the bottom end, the outer casing is coming apart. So when I refit it i will look at the best routing.
For me the difference is massive, mine has a lot of wear on the old cover. With the clutch lever back to the bar the bike would try to creep at lights and be impossible to find neutral. General riding now im 2 fingers on the clutch.
First of all, glad they've addressed the problem of fuel sniffing. When I was riding around the outback in 2005/06 all the fuel pumps were in locked cages and you had to prepay before they opened the pump. The degree of alcoholism and other addictions we saw in the north was really sad.
50km drop in range over just 305km is huge at 16,4% if my calculator skillz are right. That's almost hard to believe and I have to ask whether different conditions was a contributing factor as well, like softer sand, going against the terrain instead of with it, head wind, uphill or maybe higher overall speed etc.
From what I can find it's the 10% ethanol content that drops the milage when using OPAL.
Overall it should be better for the bike since it contains a fuel system cleaning agent that regular fuel doesn't
I envy your clutch Ard! I still have to use four fingers, even with the bush and your improved routing
I've tried using shorter levers and two fingers but it puts too much strain on my left hand when feathering it, so I quickly went back to a full length lever and four fingers!
I'm starting to think we might have a different idea on the definition of a light clutch (or do you just have mighty strong fingers? )
How would you compare your clutch to a hydraulic clutch in terms of required force? (for instance a 690/701). Those clutches are very light and I think anyone will agree they are suitable as a two finger clutch.
Have you changed anything in your clutch pack? Perhaps a different set of springs?
To be fair to the X though, it's by no means a heavy clutch. It feels normal, like most other bikes with a cable operated clutch.
Maybe something in this vid that can help.
I think the aromatics found in regular gasoline allow for higher combustion energy content per liter and also raise the octane. I don’t think the drop in fuel economy of OPAL is strictly Ethanol related.
But very good information to be aware of when route planning in remote Australia!
Yeah. No idea what makes the bang and what doesn't, but acc. to BP who makes OPAL, it "is a direct substitute for regular unleaded 91", and they claim "delivering comparable performance" - whatever that means.
RON91 is of course low to begin with so if one compares milage on RON95 with OPAL it's not a fair comparison.
No really good update on my xMoto. I checked the pins on my fuel pump, and they all looked to be in great condition. I verified all my safety switches were operating correctly, to which they were. While I had the covers off, I cleaned the idle controller. There was a little gunk in there. The last MAJOR (before I dig into chafing wires will be replacing the battery. Which right now, is to me the main culprit. It's so bad that I can't even jump the bike with it connected. Won't even click over.
So at least in the interim I was able to bleed the front brake, and replace the low fender on the bike. I also cleaned up the end of the throttle grip so it didn't keep the throttle from snapping back as it should. new battery on Monday and we'll see what kinda action we get.
Magura HYMEC Clutch system
I posted the configuration on this thread on 11 November 2018 as per below.
Can the admin people put a link on the first page to this information please.
This is for my bike, it has 3" bar risers fitted and Bark Buster hand guards
The Magura Kit I have just fitted consisted of the following items
167 Master Cylinder 10.5mm - #2700185
Clamp with threaded mirror mount M10X1.25mm - #2700177
Clutch switch - #0723187, this comes with an electrical connector that is different to the XChallenge so you need to do a cut and splice, I fitted a 2 pin Deutsch connector.
Long lever blade with adjustment wheel, 146mm off-road - #0723290, I have Bark Busters fitted and this fits in the hand guard
Tube kit carbon with accessories, 1,120mm - #0722137, I have 3" bar risers fitted and this gives plenty of length for the tube, without bar riser the 1,045mm tube may be long enough, you need to check. The original clutch cable is 1130mm from end nipple to end nipple on the actuating cable.
Slave cylinder, use the measuring template to check, I fitted length G - #2100003, this replaced an F unit (#0120651) which I thought was to short when I used the template to check the install (Magura USA agreed with this change in configuration), With the slave cylinder you need to remove the silver spacer on the rod end of the slave cylinder to install the slave cylinder. The silver sleeve will not fit in the mounting bracket cast on the clutch housing
Nipple - #0412310, this connects the actuator rod to the clutch activation arm
Magura Blood - #0721820
I have done about 10,000km with this configuration and have had no issues with it
Hope this helps
My old Magura system used 163 master cylinder (no longer available) with 10.5mm bore and the 146mm lever, this system worked OK
The battery condition on these and all Rotax 650 BMWs is critical. That is the first place to look when dealing with a poor running or hard start issue.
Thank you Sir,...
I knew it was here somewhere but I have been busy w/ other problems...
This is next on the list and will make things much faster...
I will call them on Monday..
Now the wife will want one.....
The husky 650 clutch cable is a little bit longer than the X cable and less expensive also. Makes rerouting easier especially if you have risers or high bend bars. FYI, the X-Ch cable was a bit longer than the X-Country cable. No idea why as the bikes are not much different.
I actually get better fuel economy using 87 compared to 91.
Thanks for those great links. BP appears to be very cautious about describing how OPAL fuel is refined. There is no reference to it being a percentage Ethanol. Apparently, the volatility is less but then a robust additive package compensates for the absence.
I couldn't say really as I only ride my own bike. A hydraulic KTM MX clutch is a little lighter I think just trying it next to the bike.
Sadly some of us have Osteoarthritis so will take any help we can get.
Yes it is not a fair or technical comparison, however it is an awareness that OPAL performance may not be as good as the conventional fuel choices when you pull up at a remote area browser, where in a lot of case you only have OPAL and Diesel to choose from.
So to compensate when riding in a remote area you may need to consider adding approximately 20% more fuel to your calculations to achieve a similar endurance until you full understand your OPAL fuel endurance range.
Yes, unfortunately my wife has the same. She hasn't been on the bike for over a year now but we're going to make an effort today. Just some easy touring to see if she's alright with it.
We may think about selling her bike if she's not.
We had the plan (two years back) to sell up everything and ride the world but after we found out about her condition we decided to buy a house where we can live at ground level. Got to think ahead.
I have it hands, neck, hip. My plan is keep moving. Have just got a neck brace to help my neck out a bit.
"Does low aromatic unleaded fuel contain ethanol? No.
Low aromatic unleaded fuel does not contain ethanol or any other oxygenates as added components."
Like I expressed earlier I'd never even heard of OPAL 'til a few days ago, so all I know is from googling it.
Sometimes I'm a little quick and don't read the full text. Data out is only as good as data in. My bad.
Also found this:
"Hi everybody. i thought i would pass this on after getting caught out using Opal fuel in Central Australia.
After experiencing a major fuel leak from the injector seals caused by using Opal we were told that the fuel has a very high level of detergent additives in it. Apparently it dissolved any carbon built up and perishes the seals. After a $2200 repair bill. We got advised to use only premiun unleaded.
Just some information if you are running a petrol vehicle"
I think this sounds odd as I doubt BP would release a fuel that damages engines. Just think of the bill they'd get stuck with. A lot more than what they make from the fuel. Makes no sense and I question the validity of that statement/ conclusion. I can however perhaps see that if the carbon is dissolved you end up with a leak because the carbon has actually filled a void and prevented a leak. So when you remove it you expose the bad seal. Maybe.
It is odd that they claim it's a direct replacement for 91 with comparable data if it performs that much worse. It could be a matter of life or death worst case.
20% drop sounds like a lot even between 95 and 91.
We got some water contaminated fuel on the mid west coast where the tanks are below sea level, like Coral Bay and while my EFI Rotax just got a little worse milage after those fill ups, the R80/100GS's I was riding with all drained full carbs of water daily. Add my 3,9/100 vs. their 6,0/100 regular milage the range difference wasn't as big between my 17,3ltr tank and their massive 4X ltr tanks as one would think. It was a limiting factor for many tracks with unknown fuel availability though. I just made it from Kununurra to Mt. Barnett RdHouse on the Gibb, but didn't make it from Mt. Barnett to Derby with a detour to Bell and Tunnel Gorges. Carried a 5ltr Jerry and had to use the fuel from my camp stove fuel bottle as well to get me to town.
Add OPAL and a potential 20% drop in range and you really have to plan your trip.
Also - how will my stove handle OPAL? It runs just fine on 95 and 92, so I would imagine it is ok, but with it reported causing leaks, that's not really a good combination with fire.