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BMW G650xMoto Adventure

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by WilsoDRZ, May 13, 2018.

  1. WilsoDRZ

    WilsoDRZ Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2015
    Oddometer:
    89
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    This is my new-to-me 2007 BMW G650 xMoto. I absolutely love the bike and I'm working toward spending way too much time and money to make it marginally better!

    [​IMG]
    #1
    Duckati and invisa-bill like this.
  2. WilsoDRZ

    WilsoDRZ Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2015
    Oddometer:
    89
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    First up: Exhaust

    I love keeping a bike like this as close to stock as possible and the aftermarket pipe options are pretty limited. So I decided to hack up the existing muffler and see what's up.

    First I cut the forward "cap" off to get to the catalytic converter. I cut out the cat mesh with a combination of hole saw and body saw (pneumatic reciprocating saw).

    [​IMG]

    Then I cut the rear "cap" off and measured how much I could remove from the can to shorten the last chamber without hitting the middle chamber.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    After cutting the can, I fabricated a new capping plate and used the existing outlet pipe to create a removable insert. If you look closely, you can see the separating plate between middle and last chamber. This image is with the inner assembly slid out. When assembled the inner assembly is flush with the outer can and the end cap keeps it contained.

    [​IMG]

    I then re-welded the end cap in place and this is what it looks like on the bike.
    [​IMG]

    It ended up almost 4 inches shorter and 3.1 lbs lighter. It's definitely louder but not obnoxious. It sounds a bit hollow to me but the shorter can really helps the look of the bike, IMHO. If I had a second chance, I'd do it a bit different. If you're looking to do something similar, PM me and I'll try to help out more. As usual, I intended to take step by step pics but got distracted with getting it done.

    Next up, wheels and tires.
    #2
    dave6253, Bli55, JagLite and 4 others like this.
  3. Snake Oiler

    Snake Oiler If the world didn't suck, we would all fall off

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,832
    Location:
    Western Pennsylvania
    I'm in.
    #3
  4. CapeMan

    CapeMan Dirt Duffer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2012
    Oddometer:
    357
    Location:
    Prescott, AZ
    I'm about to attempt a de-catting of my stock muffler, mostly to cut down on the temps we get outta that thing. Not really interested in a louder exhaust tone or even a shorter can so not planning on opening up more than the front end.

    (Me, I love the induction sound more than exhaust - and I crave an echo now of the moan I used ta get from twin 4 barrel Holley carbs running flat out on a '61 Chrysler 300G. It's not quite the same but you can free-up the inlet side on the G650X some and get a nice note out of it. But I digress ...)

    I've never seen more of that part of the operation than the front-end-cut-open pic you show ... is there more to know, hints, errors to avoid? I'm guessing it's pretty straightforward from the lack of discussion about it but can you confirm or provide better directions?
    #4
    Snake Oiler likes this.
  5. DGR

    DGR G650X

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2009
    Oddometer:
    331
    Location:
    Netherlands
    "spending way too much time and money to make it marginally better"
    Hey this sounds like my kind of plan! ...Clicks "watch thread" :lurk

    Nice to see someone else modify their Xmoto. :thumb
    #5
    Snake Oiler and JagLite like this.
  6. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    587
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    +1

    Time and money?
    You got it damn right!!!
    #6
  7. WilsoDRZ

    WilsoDRZ Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2015
    Oddometer:
    89
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    Removing the cat is pretty straight forward. Here's a few more pics to help out. I cut off around 1/2" of the tube so that it still fit into the receiving hole on the main can when assembled. Hopefully that makes sense. Then I cut out the "mesh" from the remaining tube.

    Also, be aware of how much material is removed during the cut to separate the can. The material removal effectively shortens the distance between the muffler mount and the slip joint to the head pipe. Not a big deal if you only lose ~.125" material. Even then I could see the change on the clamped slip joint.

    [​IMG]


    Looking downstream:
    [​IMG]


    Looking up stream after the massacre:
    [​IMG]

    Shrapnel:
    [​IMG]
    #7
  8. WilsoDRZ

    WilsoDRZ Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2015
    Oddometer:
    89
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    Wheels and Tires:

    I love the xMoto but I want this to be a Swiss Army knife so I set my mind on wire wheels and knobbies. I read some old posts about Woody's wheels and some other attempts using xChallenge forks. I wanted find a way to maintain the 320mm front rotor and 4pot brembo from the xMoto as well as the OE ABS rings.
    I started with 21/18 cush drive wheels for a CRF450. Color is the most important thing, right? I ordered them sans rotors and sprocket. The front rotor was the wrong size anyway and I was able to source rear components cheaper thru work. (Perks of working for a shop).
    https://www.kkeracing.com/kke-honda...13-crf450r-02-12-red-sprocket-disc_p0419.html

    Step 1: Mount tires. I chose the Michelin ATC-10 in 110-18 and 80-21, the same tires I used on my CDT trip. First time I've worried about scratching wheels... Also, I forgot rim strips so I'll be getting more practice with the spoons. The tire machine in the pic is broken for now...

    [​IMG]

    I measured the stock tire/wheel assemblies to sort out dimensions from swing arm to rotor to tire center line to sprocket. Then I backed out what spacers and adapters I needed to center the wheels and align the sprocket/rotors. This is pretty frequent job for me at the shop so I was able to crank out some spacers on the lathe pretty quickly. The rear axle on the xmoto is 20mm while the CRF is 25 so I just sleeved down the bearings to match the xMoto axle. The front axles are the same at 20mm. Yay!

    [​IMG]

    For the rear, I purchased a cheap 240 rotor to match the CRF wheel so I just made a spacer that incorporated a mount for the ABS ring. Just press go on the CNC...
    [​IMG]

    The front rotor is a Warp9 320mm left-over from another project. The bolt pattern didn't match the CRF hub so this adapter is a little more swiss-cheesy. Luckily the ABS ring will only need some fine tuning with washers to hit the right spacing to the sensor.
    The caliper needed to move outboard .100" to clear the spokes so I just milled off material from the caliper adapter bracket. This only took material off the boss rather than the meat of the bracket so I feel good about the strength. I'll be making a .100" spacer for the xMoto wheel brake rotor so the wheels are an easy direct swap. I'll try to get some more pictures of this when I take the whole thing apart to install seals and proper fasteners.

    [​IMG]


    Here's the front assembly.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    This is a pic of the knobs before I started on the brake rotor adapters.

    [​IMG]


    Next up: Skid plate - I machined bosses and mounts this evening. Tubes and plate are on the agenda tomorrow night:

    [​IMG]
    #8
  9. DGR

    DGR G650X

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2009
    Oddometer:
    331
    Location:
    Netherlands
    Wow, awesome job on the custom adapters! Wheels look great :clap

    Can't wait to see what you come up with for the skidplate!
    #9
    JagLite likes this.
  10. CapeMan

    CapeMan Dirt Duffer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2012
    Oddometer:
    357
    Location:
    Prescott, AZ
    This is exactly what I was looking for ... thank you, sir!

    Now, to break out the sawzall.
    #10
  11. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    587
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    Wait, so for about 10 years people were going crazy trying to swap wheels, with the non standart..well,everything...on the 650X, paying unreal money for custom wheels, bmw hubs etc...

    And you come around, whip up spacers and adaptors and just mount up a pair of totally different wheels man! That's awesome!

    Out of interest,how did your search lead to this particular wheel set?

    What methods were used for the adaptor plates? The front looks like it was jet or laser cut out? But the rear looks lightened on the bottom, was that machined out of aluminium block?

    How will you protect the machined surfaces if at all?

    Thanks, I'll just lurk and read further on your thread)
    #11
    octopusenvy and Snake Oiler like this.
  12. WilsoDRZ

    WilsoDRZ Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2015
    Oddometer:
    89
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    Haha! Fortunately I work at a custom motorcycle shop as an engineer and fabricator so doing wheel swaps is a pretty frequent job.

    Step 1 Make sure the xMoto front caliper could clear the spokes. I did a quick test fit with a 21" from a KTM 350 and it looked promising. I didn't want to step down to the Xch forks and brakes, my goal was to keep the completely unnecessary 320mm rotor and 4 pot Brembo.
    Step 2 Find a cush drive rear. Originally Warp 9 was going to build some custom sets using KTM parts but they couldn't hit the timeline so I searched for something off the shelf. Aftermarket Honda CRF 21/18 cush drive wheels are fairly common. The aftermarket hubs are usually generic machined billet Al with bearing and spacer sets to match which ever model is needed. I would have bought Warp9 sets but could only find them with brake rotors and sprockets which I was replacing anyway so I didn't want to spend the cash.
    Step 3: Verify the axles for the new wheels were bigger than the xMoto. It's much easier to sleeve up rather than find bearings with the same ID and larger OD. Luckily modern dirt bikes have gone to 25mm and larger axles while the xMoto still has 20mm at both ends.

    Both adapter plates are CNC milled from billet Al. I got fancy on the rear and did the material removal on the back side where the 4mm ABS ring mount bolts are and added the locating tabs. The front ABS ring uses the same 8mm bolts for the rotor. I didn't want to the thin out the section where the threads were (I follow the 1xDiameter thread depth rule whenever I can). Doing any detailed surfacing wasn't worth the weight savings. The wheel didn't have a locating ring for the rotor so there was no sense in adding one to the adapter.

    I don't intend to do anything to the surface finish. I bead blasted and painted the rear adapter. I bead blasted and oiled (ACF 50 https://learchem.com/products/acf-50.html) the front adapter. If I had easy access to anodizing I would have done that. Luckily the parts are all captured in the CAD world so I can make more pretty easily. Measuring and aligning everything is always the time consuming part.
    #12
    octopusenvy likes this.
  13. WilsoDRZ

    WilsoDRZ Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2015
    Oddometer:
    89
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    Skid Plate time!

    Another excuse to "save" a couple hundred dollars on buying a part and make it myself instead.

    I turned some bosses and bent some .75" stainless steel tube and got to TIG welding the frame work. Why stainless? It machines and welds reeeeaaaaallll nice and we have plenty of drops laying around the shop.

    [​IMG]

    Test fit:
    [​IMG]

    I found the cardboard and cut out a template, transferred it to some .083" Al sheet, hit up the shear and bead roller and bingo bango, a skid plate!

    This is the pretty rainbow welds just before getting blasted. I though about leaving it raw stainless but then I found a rattle can that matched the xMoto frame and just had to do it.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    And finally, a few pics installed, showing the "wings" to hopefully protect the case and water pump outlet. I left the holes on the end of the cross tube so I could add highway pegs or a tool tube mount or something else silly down the road. Not shown is the sheet of rubber I glued to the top of the plate so it didn't vibrate like a drum.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #13
  14. Slytheslayer

    Slytheslayer Ride or Die!!

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2017
    Oddometer:
    830
    Location:
    Fort Lewis, WA
    Some great skills you got there.. Would love to learn to weld!
    #14
  15. Snake Oiler

    Snake Oiler If the world didn't suck, we would all fall off

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,832
    Location:
    Western Pennsylvania
    Looking really sweet. So let me ask a question. Would you be willing to make a few sets of components to fit the wheels for others? Myself for one would be interested if the price is right. 21/18 combo for my X challenge.

    ☮️
    #15
  16. DGR

    DGR G650X

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2009
    Oddometer:
    331
    Location:
    Netherlands
    Wow, that skidplate exceeds all expectations.... awesome!

    Whenever most people fab something (me included) it usually has a bit of a "DIY look". The parts you fabricate look like they come straight out of the Touratech catalog! Well done sir :super
    #16
    more koolaid likes this.
  17. more koolaid

    more koolaid Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2015
    Oddometer:
    330
    Location:
    Bel Air Md.
    ^^^What he said :clap
    #17
  18. WilsoDRZ

    WilsoDRZ Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2015
    Oddometer:
    89
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    Unfortunately wheel spacer and brake adapter sets aren't something I could make and ship out. The parts need a development and test cycle before I would feel comfortable selling them as there's too many variables on fitment. If someone had dimensions on specific wheel spacers, I might be able to help out there. I'd love a way to contribute back to the 800 pages of xChallenge thread that have helped me!


    Thanks!!!!

    I have a few more mods happening now...the quality seems to drop as my departure (next thursday) gets closer.
    #18
    JagLite and Snake Oiler like this.
  19. DGR

    DGR G650X

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2009
    Oddometer:
    331
    Location:
    Netherlands
    Don't know if you have plans for the front fender already, but if you want a low fender, the F800GS fender practically fits like a glove with a little trimming, using the standard mounting points on the Xmoto.

    [​IMG]

    Here's some detail pics;
    http://members.ziggo.nl/tdg/xmoto/f800gsfender/

    Eventually I ended up with an Xchallenge frontswap (OEM headlight + high fender + forkprotectors)
    Switching between the 17 and 21 frontwheel required switching the lowfender every time... too much effort :D
    #19
    Pezz_gs likes this.
  20. WilsoDRZ

    WilsoDRZ Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2015
    Oddometer:
    89
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    This will be a scattered update. I don't have any great photos of the final product but they're coming so these are mostly in-progress shots.

    Since the last update:
    Tires and wheels are fully installed with brake rotors, cush rubbers, and ABS rings, all with proper bolts. I took it for a short ride and everything worked out well. The additional rake and trail created by the 21 front is noticeably slower but not unlike my DRZ. The stock xMoto steering is pretty quick to start. I noticed a lot more audible skidding of the rear during ABS. It is working, I can feel it in the pedal. I haven't changed the ECU settings to the different wheel size but I assumed that just changed speedo cal. With such different circumferences between the 17/17 and 18/21 setups, I imagine the ABS is a little out of tune.

    Hi Mount fender - The PO gave me an Acerbis generic sumo front fender so that's where I started. Since the xmoto headlight and fairing sit well below the lower triple, I hacked a big hole in the fender and fit it around the fairing. I added a simple bracket to bolt to the existing holes in the triple and boom goes the dynamite, I have an awkward looking beak hanging out over the tire. It ain't great but it's good enough for the girls I date.

    Fork Guards - The stock xMoto fender incorporates fork guards and a mount for the brake line guide. With no fender, I was left to figure it out on my own. We have a good sized Jet shear and box brake, so some scraps of .083 Al quickly turned into some guards that bolt to the fork lower. I'll get some better pics uploaded soon.

    Roto pax mount - On my DRZ I mounted a roto pax on top of the tail and then put my bag on that. I was disappointed with the way the Rotopax twist lock mount stood proud of the fuel can and my bag just sat on it...but it made the trip on the CDT so I guess it was okay. But the Rotopax mount is $80 and rather heavy so I found another opportunity spend time instead of money. The stock rack on the xMoto has a bolt pattern very close to the spacing on a Rotopax. I was able to machine some fancy spacers to located the fuel can and fabbed a sheet Al hold down. I used bolts rather than a better-but-more-time-consuming tool-less design...however I included a little holder for the appropriate Allen wrench. In other news, everything I make on a lathe looks like it belongs in a sex shop. :dunno
    The 2 gallon tank looks goofy and is probably too much weight up high but I wasn't about to spend the cash on a touratech tank and sure didn't want to deal with getting the X-tank shipped. Eh, it should be fine, right?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Luggage Racks:
    I have a set of DrySpec Saddle bags and as I fit them over the bike I started to hate the the way the bags just dangle and I'm supposed to strap them 8 ways from sunday. The large muffler and pointy plastics don't lend themselves to soft bags either. I decided to fab some mounts or stays or whatever you want to call them. On the left side, it keeps the bag off the muffler and on the right side I added a DrySpec tool tube that keeps symmetry of the bag. It's all stainless 1/2" tube, hand bent and TIG welded, then spray painted in one of the most technically advanced booths out there.:rofl
    I also took this as a chance to brace the subframe by tying the SS tube back to the threaded bosses where the passenger pegs mount (I think). I also made some Al gussets and welded them where the subframe is known to crack. My Al welding skills are sub-par and the annodizing wrecked havoc before I realized what was going on so no pictures of that tom foolery.

    [​IMG]

    Pictures!!!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #20
    Pezz_gs and dave6253 like this.