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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by Paulvt1, Feb 14, 2014.
Lovely bike :) like the matching shoes
your missing all the fun stuff that comes with that bike...dynamic mode if not available would be a game changer for me and the electronic suspension is amaizing i did'nt know you can buy them stripped ...you can add an ohlins...either way best of luck with it
I don’t have any miles on it other than a test ride, but it felt great as is. I think you can add dynamic mode after the fact, but it still has 160 hp in road mode.
Not having the dynamic suspension is kind of a drag, but you still get the full HP, throttle response is muted and rider "aid" intervention cannot be dialed back, so it's like 90% of the other bikes on the road, nothing wrong with that, it's still a magnificent beast.
As far as add ons go, on my '16 I put crash bars on (from Twisted Throttle IIRC) but it was more of a mounting place for additional lighting (OEM sux) as I do a lot of riding at night, often in rural areas, and a place to mount a Stebel horn, I controlled them through a HEXcan controller (they are awesome!). I did have other things I added as I used it as a long distance tourer as well. One thing I might recommend if you want to open the tune up is to install a Akropovic header (no need to spend the money on the slip on, the best sound combo is Akro header and stock can) it lets it breath easier.
At the end of the day though, it's all up to you, ride it for a while and see if adding any silliness makes sense to you.
Cheers, and Happy Riding, you will love this bike!
I'm not that impressed with the electric suspension. A well set up adjustable/aftermarket/Ohlins shock suspension would be better in my opinion. Not going down the TracTive upgraded electric stuff.
I picked up a neglected Unigo trailer and I finally have the hitch situation sorted out. Next I am going to rewire it. My 2016 XR has the a Clearwater CanOpener for my aux lights and Billie brake light installed. Does anyone know how to attach trailer lighting to this bike? Unigo site seems dead in the water so no assistance there. This is my first bike with a Canbus. I also have a PDM-60 installed so the main 12v power is already isolated. I need to figure out how to tap into the brake light, running light, and turn signals from the CanBus. I can't be the first guy to need this.
Hire an electrician
No seriously you can figure it out
Any thoughts on a 2016/2017 S1000xr vs a 2016/2017 Multistrada?
I’ve been looking at the Multistrada’s, but have seen some nice 4 and 5 yr old s1000xr’s for similar money. (About $15k Canadian).
This would be an everything bike for me - daily commuting, long day rides with friends, 2up camping trips with my wife, long solo multi day trips in the mountains and some very light off road (gravel and dirt). Probably riding around 30,000km/yr. I’m coming from a VStrom 650 that’s been beefed up with an Elka Shock, progressive springs and emulators, Corbin seat and full luggage. But now I want more power and tech options like traction control and electronically adjustable suspension. Need around 300km fuel range too.
Hey Blast, I am not as familiar with the CANOpener as I am with the HEX ezCAN but I believe you should be able to program an output through CANOpener for a secondary brake light, you could use that for your brake/running light and will probably be good with just using your bikes turn signals. As far as tapping into your signals on the bike, I have never seen it work without sending a LAMP code, not saying you couldn't use a tri-ode with a relay but it would be a PITA, if the can opener won't work, replacing it with the HEX ezCAN may be an option.
But hey, if you give up, I'll take the Unigo from you, they are awesome.
That could work. I actually am using the brake light output of the CanOpener to fire the Billie Brake light. Maybe I could run another one in parallel. They are just LEDs.
I haven't given up yet!
If horsepower is important then I would suggest staying away from those particular years of the Multistrada. In side by side comparison with the XR they seem to be down 15 or possibly 20 horsepower even though they are rated the same as the XR. The Multi has a superior electronics package with infinitely more adjustability.
For some of your stated intentions I would suggest considering a KTM Super Adventure. With sport touring tires on it's 19" rim hit handles just as well as the XR and has the same horsepower, they are identical to the XR in acceleration from 0 - 120. Plus you get the option to mount some 80/20 tires to it for more off-road excursions.
Thanks that's good info.
Horsepower only needs to be above 100, so all those bikes meet my needs. The KTM can get pretty hot off the engine and I ride a fair bit in heavy traffic in the city here in Toronto, so that is why I passed on the KTM. Otherwise, it would be pretty swell suited to what I need.
Do you know how the XR and Multi compare for scheduled maintenance time/costs? Considering I ride around 30,000km/year, the one thing keeping me away from the Multi is the frequency and nature of the larger maintenance intervals. I'm fine to do simple stuff like oil, tires, brakes and chains myself. Belts and valves I leave to the pro's.
If you're paying somebody to do valves on a Ducati, it's not going to be cheap. I'd call your local BMW and Ducati shops and ask for quotes on a valve job for each one. I do my own (if you can read, you can wrench) so can't help ya on actual costs. From what I've seen, most people report around $1,500 USD for an 18k mile service on the MTS.
I paid $1200 (discounted from $1475) for my 18K service on my XR.
Out on a two week ride. First three days 945 miles.
Monument Valley at The View Cabins on the Reservation:
There is a plug (I'm assuming on all first gen xrs, for sure on the 16) under the passenger seat left side that'll give you ground, keyed source (running light), and brake light. I'm not sure what bmw put it there for but I use it as signal for anything I need keyed (dash cam, weiser front running lights) and anything I want a brake light signal for (weiser brake lights). Sorry, can't help with the turn signals signal. I should mention I purchased a plug to plug into the one on the wiring harness so I have a nice installation without messing up the stock harness.
You can certainly add another LED lamp in parallel with the Billie brake light without causing a problem. It's not that easy with the turn signals, however. BMW bikes are notoriously sensitive to extra load on any circuit and attaching extra turn signals to those on the bike will give you a LAMPR error. One solution would be to the use the IQ-260-TS controller from SkeneLights.com. This isolates the bike's tail light, brake light and turn signals and allows you to add your trailer's lights (LED or incandescent) without upsetting the canbus.
You can find a wiring table for the trailer's connector here:
(Full disclosure - I designed the IQ-260-TS controller and have a financial interest in Skene Lights business. I do not push these products on this site or others, but do respond when they can solve a specific problem.)
Thank you. I will contact Skene to see if this will work. I couldn't find an installation manual on the site so I am not sure how to connect this to the bike's wiring.
At the risk of being a sycophant, the ‘16 s1000XR I just picked up is great. The quick shifter is very cool. 6th gear will run from 35 on up. I’m really digging it. It took me a while to figure out how to ride it best as I’m used to wringing the neck of everything I ride. This thing is a bit too powerful for that and would be a bit jerky and rough when riding that way. Smoother inputs are greatly rewarded. I’m going to figure out how I can turn off the wheelie control.
Here's a photo showing the tail light wiring connections under the seat on the right side. There is also a gray/red license plate wire that can be used to power a relay for switched power. There is another unused connector on the left side that houses the brake light, license plate light and ground wires.
The Skene Lights controller can be connected to any of these wires without causing a canbus fault.
Note that the brake light signal is modulated so the stock LED brake/tail light operates at a 10% duty cycle as a tail light then at 100% when the brakes are on.