Brake pad replacement and leaking oil pan?

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by shadeobrady, Oct 14, 2018.

  1. shadeobrady

    shadeobrady Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2016
    Oddometer:
    22
    Location:
    CA, USA
    Hey folks - these questions are for a 77 BMW R100RS

    Brake Pads: I've got the Clymer manual, but it's a little light on this process and I'm having trouble finding video guides. Does anyone know of any good videos for brake pad replacement I could learn from before doing it on my bike? It's one of the few things I've never actually had to work on, and I dont want to mess that one up obviously.

    Oil Pan: Second question was around the oil pan. The previous owner installed a deeper pan and dropped a temp gauge in it that runs up to the S-Fairing he put on the bike (BMW R100S). This is the first airhead I've owned that has a slow leak from the oil pan. Are there guides to this thing? Do I just unscrew it and put on a new gasket? I wasn't sure how involved it is.
    Thank you!
    #1
  2. Plaka

    Plaka Brevis illi vita est

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    dropped a temp gauge in it how?

    unscrew what?
    #2
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  3. Square1

    Square1 Been here awhile Supporter

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    SoCal-BRD
    Regarding the Oil pan, yes take the bolts of , most likely the pan is stuck and has to get some nudging with a block of wood and a rubber mallet to come loose.
    Inspect if there are bolts/metal parts in the pan.
    Check if the Oil pick up has an extension for the deeper Oil pan and is securely fastened.
    Also if you are able to look up into the engine you get a good look at the Camshaft and its condition.
    The bolt hole next under the Oil filter goes through to the engine, some apply RTV sealant to the bolt so that it will not leak there.
    Fasten with criss cross pattern and do not over tighten.
    #3
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  4. pixilated

    pixilated Been here awhile

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    Use the Clymer instructions to pull the caliper off and the outer pad out of the caliper, I believe there is a small spring clip. Then,before you remove the inner pad, remove the cap on the brake fluid reservoir and use the pad to push the piston back into the caliper. The removal of the inner pad souls be straight forward. Just pull on it and it should pop off. Replace the pads, slide the caliper back into position and push the bolt thingie back up into the hole. Before tightening it, your going to need to get it aligned right so you get good pad contact on the disc.

    Put the lid bask on the reservoir and pull the lever a few times to push the poison back out, so you can feel the brake grab the disc. This video will get you pretty close from that point.



    You can draw a line on the disc with a marker, from center out, to check that the pads are rubbing it off evenly. You'll likely fidget with the bolt a tiny bit. Its lobbed, so when you turn it, you'll see the caliper move. Don't sweat it, is not a terribly difficult job at all.

    Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
    #4
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  5. shadeobrady

    shadeobrady Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2016
    Oddometer:
    22
    Location:
    CA, USA

    Thank you for both of these - That's a ton of help right there to get me going. Much appreciated!
    #5
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  6. Bigger Al

    Bigger Al Still a stupid tire guy Supporter

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    Be certain first that it's the pan that's leaking and not the pushrod tube seals.
    #6