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Bringing a R850R back to life!

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by scrminbanshee, Oct 3, 2018.

  1. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    871
    Location:
    puyallup wa
    When I recently stumbled upon an 850 in boxes for $400 I figured I couldn’t pass it up. I’ve been looking for a project for this winter. The guy I bought it off of said that the transmission wasn’t shifting very well and it wouldn’t shift into third. That being said I’ve never torn into a gearbox before but it sounds fun.

    The plan is to build it back into what it was before the guy took it apart in 2012. Currently have an 1150gs as the touring bike and a klx250 as a dirt bike. So looking for something to get around town and short jaunts. Maybe it will go to a scrambler but I just want to get it fixed up first.


    When I brought it home
    CA9E6E7E-2E82-431D-8C0F-7E7D9CA3FBDF.jpeg

    Digging it out and bringing it home was quite an experience!
    4016D8B2-94A5-4B1E-A50C-C699D48255E8.jpeg

    Wish me luck! Hoping this will serve as a way for me to keep track of what’s going on and be a good resource for people.
    #1
  2. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    871
    Location:
    puyallup wa
    Well I was able to get it unloaded from the truck. That was a hassle but thank goodness for the John Deere. Got her set up in the garage and started Getting after her. I like to name my bikes and haven’t come up with a good name yet but they always seem to just happen.
    12ED983C-C4C5-4B0B-8787-0267CAFC86BE.jpeg
    Some of the parts spread out on the bench.
    2B252E3F-2238-4AA6-B7DA-2F89AC7DC7A0.jpeg

    The good:
    Paint is in great shape.
    Looks like everything is there.
    Corbin seat
    Hard bags
    A97 tranny

    The bad:
    Needs a friction plate on clutch
    Gearbox rebuild
    Final drive rebuild
    Throttle bodies might need some help
    The PO hacked the wording harness in a couple of spots so that will also need to get fixed.

    I’m going to start first with gearbox and clutch. After those are back together I’ll start on final drive and figuring out how to reassemble.
    #2
  3. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    871
    Location:
    puyallup wa
    Well, today I finally set some time to get out there. So today I got out there and set about removing the transmission and possibly starting to break into that.

    I read in another thread about making you own guide pins so I ran to the hard ware store and bought 2 8x1.25x110mm bolts cut the heads and cut a grove in the back. Worked like a charm.
    2E8FA1CF-607F-466B-8A47-A59B0D58B8F9.jpeg
    462A8BAD-D6BD-44A1-AEE6-68D0280A324E.jpeg

    So then it was time to remove the gearbox. And the guid pins worked perfectly.
    0597673F-F3E4-4CC1-937B-9CF58F466FE1.jpeg

    So like I said before I’ve never been In a gearbox before. So here’s to hoping it’s not to crazy or else I’ll have to send it off to Anton. I’ve read through his page and just about every r1100/r850 transmission thread I can find and it looks like this is the better transmission. So with two Manuel’s and my phone at stand but I started taking the housing off.
    C9215998-10E4-4597-8038-A52D1BEBBED0.jpeg
    #3
  4. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    871
    Location:
    puyallup wa
    Then a bit of heat and it was off
    2150C259-B255-48C5-ADFF-227561710089.jpeg
    83EBD449-11CC-4E54-B248-D48D7A76FF64.jpeg
    Got the housing off and then started to see what’s wrong. It sounded like it wouldn’t shift into 3rd from the P.O. so I thought maybe a dog or a shift fork had gone out? I don’t really know but hey the whole bike only cost 400 bucks so let’s try! Got the shiftdrum out and pulled the shift forks and the shift fork for 3/4 is in ruff shape.
    C3EB10AD-8F42-4395-A48D-BA9B95E8E3A3.jpeg

    Anybody know what causes this? The gears are in good shape and the dogs on the gears all look to be good.

    Tomorrow I’ll be doing a bunch of cleaning as the rear main seal seems to have been leaking forever so there is oil everywhere.
    #4
  5. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    78,516
    Location:
    Alexandria, VA
    This should be fun. Some similarities to my R1100R build.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Mine runs well, bad clutch. I paid $700, with the new clutch assembly in the box.

    I really like the paint on yours. Mine sat outside for years and is rough all over!
    #5
    TonyKZ1 likes this.
  6. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    871
    Location:
    puyallup wa
    I was just reading thru your post. Good to know I’m not the only one out there trying to bring these bikes back. Who are you using to host pictures? I used to use photobucket but I can’t get it to work anymore.
    #6
  7. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

    Joined:
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    Alexandria, VA
    I use https://imageshack.com/ Not as user friendly as PB, but free, or cheap, depending on your posting limits.
    #7
    scrminbanshee likes this.
  8. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    871
    Location:
    puyallup wa
    Well I managed to get an hour or so out in the shop today! I also talked to a long time bmw mechanic and he said he had a used shift fork and he would put the tranny back together for the cost of a new fork! Said it would a take a week or so as I’m in no hurry. Well next up is to get the clutch and flywheel off.

    Pull fly wheel.
    3F1E2E16-9D6A-44A2-A4EF-305F4BE5E070.jpeg
    The clutch once apart was soaked in oil. I’m going to need a new friction plate. The bike only has 30k on it so I’m going to keep the rest of the clutch pack unless someone can talk me out of it.

    FEE93DBE-92C9-4FC4-8108-93628E85F79C.jpeg
    Getting those five bolts off really proved to be a chore! I only managed to get 3 of them loose. But I was just reading about a hole that allows for a screw driver to hold everything in place any tips would be much appreciated.

    Hopefully I will get some time tomorrow in order to finish pulling that flywheel. Then I’ll start cleaning I sprayed a bunch of parts cleaner on the back there to start loosing it up. Even went and and grabbed the wife’s new tooth bush! Once it’s clean I’ll pull the main seal. Then I can finally start putting it back together!
    #8
  9. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    78,516
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    In your top left, around 10 O'clock, you are nearly lined up with the hole. I would use a 5mm allen in the hole. It will lock it enough to get the bolts out. Don't be afraid to tap firmly on a breaker bar with a hammer to break the bolt loose.
    #9
  10. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

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    871
    Location:
    puyallup wa
    Thanks I have two bolts that are proving to be real stubborn. I’ll try the 5mm in the hole tomorrow and have the mrs hold the bike so I can apply plenty of forward pressure.

    I’m also a bit nervous about the rear main seal but we will tackle that when we get there.
    #10
  11. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    So you don't try to pull the bike over, position the breaker bar so you can give it a solid hit with a hammer on the handle. The should break it loose.

    The rear main seal isn't too bad. Make sure you measure the depth before removing it, so you can reinstall it in the same position.
    #11
    invisa-bill likes this.
  12. Andyvh1959

    Andyvh1959 Cheesehead Klompen

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2012
    Oddometer:
    2,964
    Location:
    Da frozen tundra eh? 1.5 mile west of Lambeau
    Looks like the clutch disc was oiled by a leaking rear main seal. My 94 R1100RS did exactly that at 68,000 miles. I pulled the tranny myself and installed the newer updated spec rear main seals. Rear main seal is fine ever since then, now at 190,000 miles.

    If I were you I would not attempt to use the pressure plate and "flywheel" with a new friction plate. The three parts wear into each other as a set and develop a very shallow cone wear pattern on the flywheel and pressure plate. A new friction plate will work, but it WILL have reduced service life once it wears into the pressure plate and flywheel plate. I learned this the hard way. At 80,000 miles my RS failed an internal bearing and BMW actually ponied up a brand new 96-spec tranny for me on extended warranty (actually I think the dealer did most of that). Then I went the cheap way and just replaced the friction plate, again. And the clutch only worked for less than 40,000 miles before slipping even though there was no oil on the friction plate.

    On your R maybe the PO didn't realize the clutch was being failed by the oil leak and just hammered the shifts to make it work? Funny though, because those early (pre-96 spec Oilheads) were known for hard, notchy shifting from 1st t 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. If the rider did not shift to BMW terms it was easy to find a false neutral between 2nd and 3rd. My RS still does it occasionally to this day if I am not accurate with my shift action. But proper clutch setup and cable adjustment helps a bunch here, as does full synthetic tranny fluid (75W90, do NOT use 75W140) with a slip modifier additive like used in limited slip differentials. Once set up properly like my 94 RS shifts are pretty good.
    #12
    TonyKZ1 and JimVonBaden like this.
  13. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    #13
  14. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    871
    Location:
    puyallup wa
    Andyand Jim thanks for the input. Definitely will drop a whole clutch pack in, the more I read the more I agree with you guys. The old clutch still had enough life left but was saturated in oil so it’s toast. Would you do an oil resistant or regular. That kit from beemer boneyard looks perfect for the price.

    Unfortunately the mrs had me running today so no real progress. After some serious consideration and a long talk with a local bmw mechanic. I took the transmission in to him. He has a used shift fork and will put the whole transmission back together for a song and comes very highly recommended. Super nice guy.

    The goal is to not take anything to anyone but I thought it best on this one. Hopefully this will be the only time I take any part of this project to someone else.
    #14
  15. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

    Joined:
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    Alexandria, VA
    Good idea on the BMW Tech. Transmissions can be difficult without experience.

    I would go with the stock clutch style. Oil resistant tends to be grabby, and often wears faster than stock.
    #15
  16. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer

    Joined:
    May 24, 2013
    Oddometer:
    2,167
    Very interesting, please keep up with the pics, might try one myself some time. They seem to come up cheap, this could be a good resource.
    #16
    TonyKZ1 likes this.
  17. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    871
    Location:
    puyallup wa
    Well I got a few hours in this afternoon. Unfortunately those bolt just won’t budge. Hit them with some penetrating oil and still nothing.

    My air compressor went belly up about a year ago and I haven’t found the right deal on one yet. Enter my buddy pokey he’s on here and let me borrow a smallish compressor. So hit it a bunch with the impact and still nothing. I did some research on my older Craftsman impact and I think it might just be a bit to tired. Got online and there is a certain harbor freight model, I don’t tend to have much luck with there tools.
    But,
    A55F5CA6-D9CF-418B-81BC-4FE7A6329556.jpeg

    Tomorrow I’ll give that a try. Wish me luck! I also think I might pick up a harbor freight table! Been eyeing one for years and found a 299 coupon today.
    #17
  18. Andyvh1959

    Andyvh1959 Cheesehead Klompen

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2012
    Oddometer:
    2,964
    Location:
    Da frozen tundra eh? 1.5 mile west of Lambeau
    Since you made the CLC actually look good, as I bet you will with the R11R, how about another challenge? Take the F650 and turn it into a slim, good sounding cafe bike. Just making the nose of that bike look good is enough of a challenge.
    #18
    JimVonBaden likes this.
  19. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    871
    Location:
    puyallup wa
    Ok, so the harbor freight special was a real pain. Had I had it from beginning maybe I could have popped out those last two stuck bolts but instead it just rounded over the nuts.
    6EE85F36-5B9E-43DE-9CCC-6A78F7E0A3D7.jpeg
    So it was time to grind.
    172F6E0D-04CF-44F7-9A3D-9AB14D14FA8E.jpeg
    These bolts came out by hand.
    Will need a new washer but the flywheel is clean.
    0AB365E0-1FA7-4724-9C9B-A79F4B8DDEAD.jpeg
    The throw aways
    D7A1D8E9-3E3B-433E-95DE-66E377B68152.jpeg
    #19
  20. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    871
    Location:
    puyallup wa
    After all the flywheel pain I was off to harbor freight again this time for a table. Been eyeing one for the last few years and had a 299.99 coupon burning a whole in my pocket.... so one followed me home today!
    EDCEE220-8197-489E-80D2-F7119B1986BB.jpeg
    4C05CF1F-5481-45CA-8E4C-55141A3559FE.jpeg

    Now tomorrow I’ll be cleaning and reading about how to pull the main seal. I haven’t ever done a main seal so any pointers would be much appreciated.

    Looking forward to finally being at a point where I get to start putting it back together. Speaking of putting it back together I need to order that boneyard clutchpack.

    I also want to thank you guys for the help so far. I’ve watched these build threads for years and have built a couple of bikes but am excited to be finally writing one of these threads. Thanks again and keep the help coming.
    #20
    layzrider, TonyKZ1 and Richarde1605 like this.