Bringing a R850R back to life!

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by scrminbanshee, Oct 3, 2018.

  1. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Great choice on the lift. I have had mine for 10 years, and would hate to be without it.

    Now go back to HF and get a seal puller. Just remember to measure the depth of the original before you pull the seal.

    This will do it: https://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-with-2-tips-63039.html
    [​IMG]

    PS It must have been interesting to get your half bike on the lift!
    #21
  2. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

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    Getting the bike up on the lift proved quite difficult. Took my wife and I a while after we dug up stumps all afternoon.

    I have one of those seal pullers from an xl600 build I did a few years back. I had forgotten about it, thanks for reminding me!
    95933FCB-7FF5-444D-8222-4BB83AED170D.jpeg
    #22
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  3. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

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    Well, I got some time in today to clean and pull the rear main seal! The seal set flush with the case and had letters facing out.
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    Tomorrow I’m going to pick up a new rear main along with some pvc tube and an appropriate beverage can in order to mount the new seal..... now that’s something I can manage this afternoon. Once again any tips is much appreciated as I’m just going off what I’ve read on the Internet.
    #23
  4. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

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    Well I got the new rear main put in today, I really hope I’ll is well. I measured the old seal vs the new and it needed to be ran down I. About 3-3.5 mills farther in so I ran it in. I some plastic from a coke bottle to protect the seal after forming it. Went right In and sits about 3.5ish deep might have put it a bit further in, hope that doesn’t hurt any thing.
    C7565356-56E7-4BBF-93B4-8C02B9E26751.jpeg

    Should find some time tomorrow to put the flywheel back on. Then onto the clutch.

    I was messing with the final drive today and noticed that the bearings have a bunch of play in them laterally. Anybody know if this is normal? I’ll try and get pictures tomorrow. I found were ted porter sells a greasable bushing to replace the stock bearings; anybody have any experience with those?
    #24
  5. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Your final drive should have no play at all.
    #25
  6. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

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    Sorry Jim I meant my pivot bearings. Also while on the topic of final drive, is there a good way to test it while off the bike?
    #26
  7. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    BIG difference. They can usually be cleaned, relubed, and adjusted.
    #27
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  8. Andyvh1959

    Andyvh1959 Cheesehead Klompen Supporter

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    Da frozen tundra eh? 1.5 mile west of Lambeau
    Rear hub bearing failure is very common to the early Oilheads. I replaced them with tapered bushings instead of the needle bearings.
    #28
  9. PaulRS

    PaulRS Dutch fool

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    I did some experiments on the different aftermarket pivots.
    None of them actually work better then the oem items.

    Tapered bushings,
    Steel 'male' and bronze 'female', the taper is too shallow and prevents the two to rotate, so rotation is between the 'female' and the pins.
    I played around with different torque settings on the pins, but no way the male and female parts would rotate.

    Re-greasable bushings,
    Grease grooves in the pins only, so no way out for the old grease when you apply fresh grease via the zerks.
    I modded the bushings by grinding a grease groove to the outside, works better, but the old grease ends up inside the swingarm.

    So now I'm back to the oem bearings, they get a clean and re-grease every rear tire change, along with the splines on the driveshaft.
    For the record, I don't use Loc-tite on the pins, just a drop of 243 on the locknut(s).

    Paul.
    #29
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  10. Andyvh1959

    Andyvh1959 Cheesehead Klompen Supporter

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    Da frozen tundra eh? 1.5 mile west of Lambeau
    I have at least 50,000 miles on my RS since installing the tapered bushings, a few adjustments, and they are doing great for many years.
    #30
  11. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

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    Today I managed to get a few mins of time to throw the flywheel on. It went fairly smoothly even doing the extra 32degrees.
    B83F5CD6-0C5A-4D7E-9635-9DEB16DA243F.jpeg
    Then a buddy (sandypeat on here) showed up and we got my chimney installed so i can get the stove hooked up.

    The pivot bearings seem to have some play side to side. I was trying to get pictures to show but it was proving difficult. I’ll try and get some tomorrow. They both move the same amount laterally. I’ll also mic them to see if the amount is normal? If they need to be replaced I’m torn between the greasable bushings and the oem bearings.

    When it comes to the rear hub, it’s leaking like a sieve. The po took the rear swing arm off but left the rotor and caliper on. Is there any good way to remove and tear it apart off the bike? Should I just reinstall it once the clutch and tranny are on take it apart and then pull it back off? I understand there is a seal inside there that can cause it to leak. The fluid that came out was in great shape and I didn’t see any metallic shavings/color.

    Need to get the clutch in and installed along with the tranny. Anyways as always thanks for the help guys!
    #31
  12. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    It may be easier to install the swingarm before removing the final drive from it, purely from a leverage standpoint. That is why I removed mine before the swingarm.

    Anyhow, I assume you mean the pinion seal is leaking?

    upload_2018-10-12_9-56-9.png

    If so, you need an impact wrench and a special castle socket to remove the big nut. In some cases it is just easier and cheaper to have the dealer do it since they have the tools. The seal is easy, the but nut can be a challenge. Most dealers can do it in less than an hour, and the seal is like $30, so figure $150.
    #32
  13. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

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    Ok so I got some pictures maybe you guys can help me guess

    Pivot bearings
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    I hope you can see that there is some lateral movement on the bearings. I tried to measure and kept coming up with about a mil of play.

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    Seems like the rear swing arm is leaking between the rotor and swing arm? The fluid that came out looked about perfect and had no metallic color or shavings in it.

    Anyways, I got to clean the swing arm, the rear main seal was leaking so bad the whole thing is covered in oil. Then on to tearing it apart and inspecting the bearings and replacing seals.
    #33
  14. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Pull back the bellows and see how much oil is in there. If a lot, pinion seal, if not, likely the main bearing and seal.
    #34
  15. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

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    Finally got some more time out in the shop. Started with cleaning the clutch, After all the back and forth about clutches I decided to order a friction plate. So I cleaned up the rest of the clutch pack and it’s in great shape.
    DF230BCD-43D8-4EDA-A6AA-D5FCA5C107F6.jpeg

    Then on to cleaning the final drive. No oil in the rubber boot from inspection it looks like they never replaced the crush washer on the drain bolt. So here’s to hoping it’s just leaking out the bottom? There was also substantial more build up on the bottom.
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    Well I’m waiting for the friction plate, and transmission then I’ll throw it all back together and then start on rear sub frame.
    #35
  16. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

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    Anybody know what these are? I found them in with all the parts and have no clue what they are for?
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    #36
  17. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    #37
  18. Jim Day

    Jim Day full manic mechanic

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    I have a R1100 swingarm here, and If I'm not mistaken that is the same bearing.

    The deal is those newer more expensive bearings have a plastic internal cage that can quickly break down if there is movement, and they are not as tight in general as the old style metal caged bearings. Once the cage goes they will just fall apart. I saw this first hand last winter.

    The older bearings were indestructible I have no idea why they made the change, but I'll be honest I do not like that bearing at all. :D

    In front is the style you have, with a section of it's broken plastic cage.
    [​IMG]

    If your just going to get the bike going and sell it they are probably good enough. If you are going to keep it and they seem to have a lot of play I'd replace them. Nothing worse then having a bearing just fall apart in the field.

    If you decide to change them the good news is that old style are actually cheaper and still work.
    [​IMG]
    From MAX BMW...
    07 11 9 985 005 TAPERED ROLLER BEARING - 40X17X14 (to 01/81) 0.18 2 $29.95

    The bad news is that they no longer make the spacer/seal washer for it.
    33 17 1 236 956 WASHER (unavailable)


    Though I had a set of bearings I did not have the race for them or the washer spacer. Anton sent me a set of washers but I couldn't wait and made the races and spacer from the original bad bearings.
    [​IMG]
    Chop Chop!! :D

    Once trued up on the lathe that spacer worked and it also fit the plastic dust seal they use with the new bearings.
    [​IMG]
    So left is the spacer cut from your bearing, next is the dust seal from same, next a bearing from a R65, next a race made from your bearing if that all makes sense. :D

    One thing to note is I did not use the stock R65 race, I used the one from your bearing, but it's the same spec. So I have not tried to fit one myself, but they should work.

    There are steel discs made to seal the inner side for the older bearings but I just used some stainless shim stock.
    [​IMG]
    Once the race is in place it locks in tight. Basically it all worked great. :D

    Like I said it's totally your call, but if I was going to ride that bike much at all, I'd change out those bearings. They are probably original and by now that plastic is getting brittle. You could replace them with the stock part or use the older sturdier bearing I'd go with the latter.
    Just thought I'd give you heads up :beer
    #38
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  19. Jim Day

    Jim Day full manic mechanic

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    They sure do :D
    #39
  20. scrminbanshee

    scrminbanshee Ready to travel

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    So, I guess the plan should be to replace those bearings as the plat laterally seems to be quite a bit.

    I’m not quite following on the shims and plastic guard. On the partsfich it lists a bearing and nothing else. Online I found those bearings for 45bucks a piece. Why wouldn’t I use those? Or am I looking at the wrong thing?
    Description
    TAPERED ROLLER BEARING - 17X40X13,25
    Part #
    33 17 2 311 729
    #40