Building a sidecar "camper".

Discussion in 'Hacks' started by doublemocha, Nov 11, 2015.

  1. doublemocha

    doublemocha Nulla

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    The headlight twist cap plugs do not match the harness connectors. This head light or my harness are maybe from a different model. I am building this bike from parts of different bikes. I would like to get a twist cap that match my harness connectors. thx
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  2. Pokie

    Pokie Just plain Pokie.

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    A visit to the local bike breaker sounds to be in order.
  3. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

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    Ah, I see now! The connectors on your harness have round holes and the connectors on the caps have flat blades.

    OK, see the part number on the headlight? I can't read it in your pic but it starts with 63 12 7 and ends in 29 ---->

    headlite connector.jpeg

    If I had the rest of the number I could look it up to see what bike it goes to. But, both the R1150GS and the R1150GSA have headlight part numbers that start with 63 12 2, so it looks to me that you need a different headlight assembly. There's one for a R1150GS on eBay right now for $200---->

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/274138720966?

    Is your wiring harness from a GS or from a GSA? Maybe doesn't matter - I think the headlights are the same so that eBay one should work.

    If you want to use the headlight you have, the only option I see would be to order two new caps from BMW and see if they fit your headlight. I don't know if they will. Part nos. --
    63 12 2 306 967 COVERING CAP HIGH BEAM
    and​
    63 12 2 306 965 LAMP COVER LOW BEAM

    These caps have connections that look like this--

    cap.jpg
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  4. doublemocha

    doublemocha Nulla

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    The part number is 63 12-7 671 029, the other number on the headlight is 581 02 000 01 SAE I spoke to a BMW part store, they did a search nothing came up on both numbers. I think the best option for me it to change the caps if they are interchangeable. This head lite assy bolts on to my bike no problem. I think the harness on my bike is from an RS. thx
  5. Pokie

    Pokie Just plain Pokie.

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    Usually these are part numbers that are developed by the manufacturer, for BMW but not used as a BMW part number. If it's an electrical part, it's usually made by ULO, Bosch or someone like that. Often when you see a part number on a BMW part, it will not be in the BMW system as it's only used by the supplying manufacturer.
  6. doublemocha

    doublemocha Nulla

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    I went ahead and ordered both caps hope they will work with my headlights.
  7. doublemocha

    doublemocha Nulla

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    I have bleed the rear brake and the clutch. I am now bleeding my front brake but I am not getting any pressure that moves the brake pads. My bike do not have ABS I removed it. I don't see any fluid leak anywhere. I am using a bleeder and I believe I have taken all the air out of the system. I am wondering if there is an issue with my calipers or my master cylinder. thank you
  8. High Octane

    High Octane Long timer Supporter

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    I’m having the same issue with my EZS leading links. I don’t have time to get back to it for while but when I do I plan to take the calipers off, wedge the pads apart, and hang them. I think the air is getting trapped in the pistons. Post what your solution ends up being as maybe there is a better way than my plan.
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  9. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

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    Two questions--(1) When you squeeze the handle do you get pressure at the handle but no movement of the pads? Or when you squeeze do you get no pressure on the handle? (2) are the front brake lines OEM rubber or after market steel-braided?
  10. doublemocha

    doublemocha Nulla

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    1. When I squeeze the handle bar there is no pressure and there in no movement at the brake pad. There is no pressure at the handle bar at all. I bleed each caliper until the clear hose of the bleeder show no bubbles. 2. the brake lines are after market steel braided. I checked the lines there is no leak anywhere.
  11. 3legs

    3legs Real men ride sidecars Supporter

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    I unbolt and hang my calipers then put a clear hose on each bleed nipple, fill 2 glass jars with about 1 inch of brake fluid, then put the clear hoses into the glass jars, making sure the end of the hose is submerged and then I start pumping the fluid through, keeping the master cylinder topped up until all the old fluid has gone through and there are no bubbles. Nip the bleed nipples up and bolt everything back on and usually I never have an issue.

    Also put a spanner between the pads while you are doing this.

    Sounds like you have a massive air bubble in the system somewhere.
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  12. Bobmws

    Bobmws Curmudgeon At Large

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    Sounds like the MC seal may be bad.
    Is the MC the original?
    Has it been rebuilt?
    Make sure the little hole in the MC reservoir isn't plugged.
    If the calipers are frozen I would expect a firm MC feel.
    Start at the first hose from the MC, loosen it and see if fluid is moving, wrap some rags around so it doesn't spray everywhere. If no fluid is moving I would suspect a bad MC.
  13. Hookalatch

    Hookalatch Born Under Bad Sign

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    You can try trying the brake lever all the way back and leaving it that way overnight. Sometimes that helps. Sounds like the problem is in the master cylinder. If it was working and you do multiple rapid pumps you should get at least some pressure or movement at the caliper even if there is air in the line or caliper.
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  14. doublemocha

    doublemocha Nulla

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    great thank, I will try this. will let you know.
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  15. doublemocha

    doublemocha Nulla

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    when I do this should I open the bleeder valve overnight also. thx?
  16. doublemocha

    doublemocha Nulla

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    yes the fluid is moving, I am using a bleeder that basically flush the system.thx
  17. Hookalatch

    Hookalatch Born Under Bad Sign

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    No. If you do that you will probably drain all the fluid and introduce even more air. Just try it at the end of the day if all else has failed.
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  18. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

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    I agree that you want to exhaust all possibility that there is air trapped in the line. Next . . .

    Take a look at this diagram from the R1150GSA parts fiche--

    [​IMG]

    You can find this diagram here --https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=59030&rnd=07242017 -- and then you click on "Steering."

    See parts numbered 13, 14, 15, 18? BMW sells a $100 rebuild kit for that plunger. This is the plunger (or the piston if you will) that actually moves the brake fluid in your master cylinder. I had to rebuild one of mine one time.

    It's kind of a brain teaser because there is a set screw that holds the plunger in place so that after you unscrew #18 you still have to remove this almost impossible to see set screw to get the plunger out. (I think it's #12.) Then when I put the rebuilt parts in, I had a bitch of a time getting the set screw back in. The secret turned out to be that I had to really push down HARD on the end of the plunger to compress the spring enough to get the set screw to seat properly.

    Very hard to describe in writing. But if you decide to pull your MC apart you'll see what I mean.

    Alternative -- buy a used front brake MC assembly on eBay. There are 10 or 12 on there right now. No guarantees they'll be perfect but . . . .

    For instance --
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/152869849684
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/372941545713
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/333505326372

    Both of those sellers are reputable bike breakers and I've bought from both of them before. I like that 3rd item--seller says it pumps well and has good pressure for under $50!
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  19. doublemocha

    doublemocha Nulla

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    Thank you I will try the other suggestions. If it does not fix it I will do the ebay option.
  20. High Octane

    High Octane Long timer Supporter

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    I wouldn’t be in too big of a hurry to take your master cylinder apart. I have the same problem as you do. I pulled my master cylinder apart, all looks fine. I’m pretty sure my issue is that the way EZS mounts the front calipers doesn’t allow the piston air out. I wont be able to get back to it for a few days but I think by wedging the brake pads apart and unmounting the calipers and hanging them so the air can escape out the bleeder better will solve the bleeding issue. But I could be wrong.
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