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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by CSMonte, Dec 8, 2008.
Oops my mistake....
I've been breathing some new life into my old beat-up 600. This bike has countless trail and street miles. It's been to 9 countries, and pounded through some hard races.
Swapped on a Kayaba front end, new Eibach 11.5 in the rear, along with all new linkage, shock, swingarm, wheel, and stem bearings. She's as tight and stiff as she ever has been - Like riding a whole new bike.
I stripped out all the old Dual-Sport wiring and brought it back to bone stock. I'll be re-doing a basic DS kit with headlight and upgraded tail light, but otherwise I will keep it a lean-mean-trail-eating-machine.
Some thing wrong here, he actually dropped the price in the last few days.
It is now time for a new chain for the old rig. I currently have a DID o ring chain with a riveted master link. There have been ZERO issues with this one and I would buy exactly the same one if I could. My problem is that I have no idea which one I have other than brand. I made it a point to keep this one clean and lubed and am using a factory front sprocket. What is working for the rest of you?
Just the regular o-ring parts unlimited brand with a master link for me. I have been lubing my chains with old engine oil or gear oil which ever I have around at the time, but before I ride or after a cleaning. I ride a lot of off road in all elements and have a lot of time on it with no issues.
I use DID 520 (the strong one with the X ring, ZVMX or VT2 has thinner profile and fits in tighter spaces) with a rivet master link, OEM front sprocket to reduce the wear rate on the counter shaft (because you have strip the motor to replace it) and JT rears or a lightweight steel on the rear
Fritz sprocket on the front. Engages more of the spline and works/fits perfect on my 96 XR600R. XR400 rear sprocket with re-machined mount holes to get a slight gear reduction from stock without reducing the front sprocket (gets more wear life, I think?). DID xring chain. Do not brush clean an o or x ring chain except on the sides.
Why do you need to use a xr 400 sprocket ?
tooth count I wanted wasn't available in XR600 bolt pattern.
I notice the crank vent hoses are just open. What do you do to prevent dirt from being sucked into the motor when the piston goes up? I think my XR400 has a small paper air filter on the end, but not the 600.
Nothing's needed . Crank case is positive pressure
I wasn't aware of the positive pressure thing. I ran a hose up from the case over and into the top of the air box and have a small breather filter on it.
IIRC there is supposed to be a duck bill/check valve thingy over end of hose where it dumps. Usually duck bill gets old and gummed up. My thrust bearings went bad on my 600 & I wonder if I contributed to premature destruction. When the piston moves up in cylinder, where do you think the displacement replacement comes from? There is positive pressure but at alternate time negative pulses. I ride a lot of sand & much water play. I'm definitely going to do something different after engine is done.
Part # 15 https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/hon/50540c6ef870021c54bed6c2/air-cleaner
The XR600 crankcase is vented to the atmosphere where as the XR650l being a street bike is routed through the oil separator then to the air box. The duck bill part keeps dirt/water from entering the hose while allowing oil to drain if needed.
No, you didn't contribute to the thrust bearing failing. This comes under the heading of Shit Happens. On the XR650l Honda didn't use the thrust bearings and I've never seen a XRL cranks big end fail in all of the engines I've worked on. The reason the rod has needed replacement on a L is due to oil loss and the wrist pin seizing to the rod. I have one in the garage right now from a job last Monday. It's heading to the machinist this morning for a new Pro-X rod kit.
I agree on the duck bill and unfortunately I road years? with out knowing there was supposed to be one on there. I wish there was a way to make the xr600 crank-to-rod similar to the 650L since there is little failure as you said.(except rider error/low oil) But what makes the L different, that it does not use the thrust bearing/shims and keeps the L rod centered? More width on lower journal & piston keeps it centered?
What do you think of this?
I shoved a bit of foam in the lower drain that, though compressed, should still allow oil to drain out (my duckbill is gone also)
I also made a quick filter for the top vent with a few pieces of appropriately sized tubing with a piece of foam inside and a few drops of air filter oil to trap whatever dirt comes in. If I trap dirt going into the filter then we'll know if there is any effective negative vent pressure going on.
I'm too lazy to pull the seat off the bike for a pic but this is the type of breather filter I used with some black vinyl hose, and a emissions 90 degree elbow. Hose runs from the fitting on the case, up between the tank and air box and drops into the top of the air box. My logic (?) is that the oil that may collect can run back into the case and the filter can inhale and exhale in the airbox. Does not seem to make much of a mess, although it might be possible when the rings get too old. Also raises the level of the breather up to about the bottom of the seat in case of a deep crossing. The carb will ingest water before the breather does.
While there has been a little bit of action on this thread lately, in general, there is not enough! So I will fabricate some. I am putting the cart before the horse... Cause I just can't wait to get back up there.
Here's my 92. This year, I will take the 91 and the 96 there. (like last year) Where in the hell is there?
My boss kind of warned me not to break my leg again. He says, "you're not taking bikes up there?"
Why yes I am! Gees, am I supposed to up and sell them?