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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by CSMonte, Dec 8, 2008.
Anyone have luck replacing a kick start seal from the outside? I've done it successfully on a TS185.
IIRC I took my case off to change seal, and I saw needle bearing in the way. I thought to myself, you big dummy ! Ya should've removed seal from the outside & save some gasket $ and scraping head ache.
I use the drz led tail light from DRC. this but with a red lens not smoke is what I have on my stock 600r fender with a bag on top.
I did mine from the outside.
yes pretty easy, deep well socket drives it in nicely but I don't remember what size I used.
Figure out the kickstart seal? My brother did mine while i went in to use the bathroom. Keep in mind he’s a complete moronic caveman. My bike hasn’t leaked from there since!
Howdy all from New Zealand
I have converted my 1990 XR600R into a café racer but have developed an electrical issue I haven't managed to solve yet so looking for advise.
Whenever I turn on my indicators the headlight and rear stop light also flashes, a mechanic suggested it was a faulty rectifier however I have tried my mates rectifier off his XR600r and the problem persists any ideas??
That sounds pretty much like you have a loose earth connection and the blinker is now grounding over the other lights. Check all grounds and clean/sand these connections, should be good.
Haven't got the part yet. Have to hold out till I can get to the dealer.
I have decided to sell my 1991 XR600R. Very dependable, starts 2nd or 3rd kick cold, 1st kick hot every time. This bike was completely rebuilt and upgraded 4yrs ago when the original engine (included with the bike) finally failed after 26yrs, due to worn out crank bushings. In May 2017 I bought a fully rebuilt engine from Steve here on the forum (the XR650L Whisperer)… All new bearings, seals, piston, rings, EBC Clutch, cylinder machined by Engine Dynamics, head fully rebuilt by Engine Dynamics (3 way valve job, valve guides etc). Cylinder was bored .010 to 97.5mm, new Weisco 9.1CR piston and rings.. While I was waiting on the engine, I decided to strip the bike and rebuild everything. It has new Ricky Stator 200w Stator, Trail Tech Vapor speedometer (was installed at the same time as the new engine so the odometer is correct mileage and hours), Mann rear rack, DBZ products Saddle bag supports, Seat Concepts seat cover and new foam, full DOT dual sport kit, new 50/50 tires and tubes, new wheel bearings, brake pads, calipers rebuilt, master cylinders rebuilt, MSR shark fin rear rotor guard, MSR shift lever, fully rebuilt carb, new Eibach .48kg fork springs and gold valve emulators up front, and new Eiback 12kg shock spring out back (and shock was rebuilt), Clarke 5gal gas tank and much more!!!! You will not find a nicer, more ready to go XR600R than this one… It is not tagged/street legal anymore, but has everything needed to pass an inspection… I have a full list of parts if wanted, and a lot of photos of the rebuild process… The rebuilt engine/bike currently has 4110miles (152hrs) on it…
The only issues I know of are the kick stand bracket has just recently broken off and needs re welding (a common issue on XR600s), I have all the parts. And it smokes a little when cold (I have new valve seals that will go with it), another common issue… The original complete engine (that needs rebuilding) is also included.
Bike is in Canton, GA
Rebuild Photo Album https://goo.gl/photos/1L3TorbXpUkCMGd27
a healthy herd of elk walking by this morning, maybe 30-40 of em. This is the tail of the herd.
Is that a Haflinger in the background?
@lookfar it's a pinzgauer 712. Haflingers bigger brother.
after owning 2 XR650R and regreting that I have sold them, I am thinking of a 97 XR600.
At the moment it seems there is no issue regarding spare parts, anyone an idea how long this could last?
Besides this, I am happy to be pointed to any specific part of the part, I should have a closer look, when buying one.
I have a 97. Has thousands of hours on the motor and runs awesome all the time. Keep good oil in it and it’ll run forever.
Hi have an XR600R with a frozen Keihin carburetor. I have restored carbs before from Harleys to KLRs and more and seen some disasters but this is a different kind of hell. Parts frozen together, with corrosion, debris, and a level of fuel solidification that I never dreamed was possible. I think you could use that stuff as a foundation for a multi story building.
I'm going to give it the college try to clean up and reassemble.
I first soaked in kerosene but it wasn't going anywhere. I decided to boil in a mixture of water and vinegar. Removed as many of the plastic/rubber bits as possible.
I think once that is done I can pull out the slide.
Question - what is the best way to revitalize the slide area? Did any of you hone it or what technique do you use? I used to have a little Lisle brake hone and it had 1001 uses. I may get another just for this. Any other suggestions?
It's the same model as found on this page: http://www.deathridge.com.au/how-to-fix-those-xr600r-carb-issues.html . I see that site says not to use abrasives.
Some of the old timers used pinsol in a crockpot to clean the crusty parts. If the slide and carb body are scored, Ebay might be your friend.
Thanks. Finally got it apart. Cleaned as much as I could. The slide actually works great now! I was worried about that. Next issue was the bowl. I don't know what sorcery was involved but the evil that was in there was mind boggling. I ran out of Simple Green but used some industrial degreaser in the bowl and it tackled that demon pitch very well. I need to figure out a brush to get at some of those angles as a toothbrush isn't cutting it this time. Feeling good about it!
Simple Green will discolor your parts if you soak them. They make an industrial version that is purple that works better.
1995 XR600R. I started a separate XR600 thread but maybe I'll get more traction here. Got bike working - awesome. Smoke. Needs rings.
Pulled off head and jug - jug looks in great condition; piston seems original; head looks like it was deep fried and burned. Not really but needs a good cleaning.
I think I will bore it rather than try to hone as it's been run hard and I don't want to cheap out only to have to redo it 6 mo later. I don't have equipment or enough experience to do the needed measurements. Harbor Freight has most of the stuff needed but not a proper micrometer for that size piston so measurements will be compromised at best. Should I go for it anyway to check for out of round cylinder and just do rings and hone or is it best to get it bored by a pro even though it looks quite good?
Which piston would you use? I'm not a performance junkie - 9:1 compression is ideal as I like longevity. Will consider others if they have a compelling reason - ie made super light or otherwise.
On the head - should I just lap the valves or should I replace seals or other parts by default?
Any other suggestions while in there? The timing chain doesn't look stretched - the tensioners are not perfect but look serviceable. Can replace whole shooting match though if recommended.