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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by CSMonte, Dec 8, 2008.
New iPhones take amazing photos
Hey, anyone in OZ able to help me get an unobtanium part out of Aussieland? The seller won't post out of the country and I haven't found this part anywhere else on the planet. Not for an XR. If you can help please pm me. Thanks everyone.
I'm from Conway, AR. This is my 1996 XR600R, tagged as well. This is my single track machine. Owned since 1997. The best dirt bike I've ever owned.
Maybe I'll see ya on the trail sometime.
Diminishing ohms resistance
I had discussion with Mike at Rickey Stator today about my ongoing problem. Some of you know I have been chasing a ghost that has taken me on a long journey. That being a phantom "dead fire", as I call it. It amounts to the fact that your motor does not run exactly perfect.
Well, it was said to me today that they did have a run of faulty stators due to a particular supply of wire they had been using for a period. They found this out when they looked into it after getting several reports of failures. (but they did not call to tell me?)
Their shipment/batch of wire caused what they called diminishing ohms resistance. A new/good stator will read about 90 ohms.
I chased a ghost with new or known good parts all over the bike. Maybe for a year and a half trying to figure why I didn't run perfect. Carb's, pulse modulators, coils, wires, switches, ect, ect. Until Rustyx on this forum said he had a similar problem that a new stator solved. At that point and ironically the last thing, (as I would not be expecting the stator to be bad at 3,000 miles)... I looked into the stator on my 1991 xr600r. It read 77.4 ohms resistance. However, rickey said it was out of warranty. (I chased the ghost too long)
So I bought a new stator and put it in. Tested before hand... 89.9 ohms resistance. The bike ran perfect. Was a delight to ride. No more dead fires, random stalls. 300 miles later, I thought I might be perceiving this dead fire thing again! Tested stator... 82.5 ohms resistance!
A call to Ricky stator before warranty expired and I gave them a notification that I was having trouble again. I asked them to give me time to put a new ricky stator in a motor steve was building. (stator 3 from them...) I can send back stator 2 for replacement under warranty when I get around to pulling it out.
But then the world changed a bit... I got a low miles 2000 600 (2000 #2) and it runs great. I am going to put all my 1991 accessories on that 2000 along with a Rickey Stator #4 then sell the 91. (I have toomany bikes)
Mike at Rickey Stator apologized for any inconvenience I may have suffered. (is that how life goes...? sorry)
In the meantime, I have a fresh build with a new stator in it on the shelf that I guess I'll use elsewhere.
As well, low and behold what was on the hitch today! #3 2000xr600r. I'll have no problem with spare parts as I go about revamping my most important 600 in the fleet. That of a 600 set up to best ride the 150 miles from the valley to the top of the mountain and back.
Don't call me a hoarder... I have a plan!
Here's a teaser for my up-coming video where we climbed to the top of McKinstry Peak last weekend. I'm still working on the video, this is a "teaser" to drum up interest. Though there are some who... let's say they can't be "drummed".
it IS #3 2000 xr600r after all...
Anyone interested in a rack and Gearsack off an XR600, I've just posted one on OZ Vendors & Flea Market for pickup in Canberra.
Hey guys, doing a top end rebuild on my 94 xr600 is this too much play at the top ring of the piston rod?
*Edit - Mechanic says the the inner diameter of the small end of the rod is 24.07 which according to my service manual is the exact service limit.
Looks like its time (my .02). Visually, you should be able to smoothly slide the pin without any (or very little) axial play. Always best the measure the pin and rod to be sure.
some more pics of the rod and cylinder
Premiers at 1:00PM PST today. I could try to build this up to be something it's not... Big money, modern production, ect... But it's not that. It's my helmet cam std type vid like I always make. But it's "nicky"!!! and I'm using him like intended. We set out from camp to go to the peak, but got diverted by a plethora of downed trees. We ended up going cross country hill climbing at 8,000 foot elevation. 3 bike riders and four lawnmowers to the top. This premiers today and those who are there and spot on, watch the premier together. I'll be on board to add comments or answer stupid questions. (like, why did you fall down)
was it here... or the L thread some one was recently asking about steering head bearing replacement? I am in the middle of it. Looking for the tricks and tips. how to drive raqce out and how to get bearing off stem.
Help out an old rider?
* noob alert
Just bought an XR last week
Here is mine:
Updates to my XR600R ADV build thread for those that like that sort of thing https://advrider.com/f/threads/1994-xr600r-dual-sport-adv-bike-build.1496003/#post-42607850
^ A lot of nice additions going on there!
My Xl has some of the outer race lip exposed, looking down through the tube, so you can use a long punch and drive out bottom from the top & vise versa. The inner race Ive' never done personally but hear many are busted in doing so. Maybe better to split with a dremel ? My 97 Xr steering was twitchy & outer races were notched a tad, so I swapped the outer races from top to bottom etc.. Worked great! Normally I wouldn't do this but it was a night before a big get together ride.
Yep inner races work this way on my 600 too, getting the lower bearing off the stem on my CRF forks (XR looks the same just different size) was a case of hammering off with a punch/screwdriver.
From memory I destroyed the bearing cage then combination of heat and penetrating spray to loosen the inner section and worked at it, just be careful not to damage the stem.
thanks you guys. Parts are replaced. Long punch... Barely gets a grip. Wedging chisels between stem and bearing on the other worked for that.
Just completed the FCR carb swap on my XR to get rid of the leaky Edelbrock carb. Some notes I would like to put here if anyone else is doing the swap.
I found the 2007 CRF450R cables too long for my standard bar height. I went with a 2021 CRF450R cable and throttle assembly. It fits perfectly.
The Allgeyer adapter fits extremely tight in the airbox boot. So much that I had to use a heat gun on the boot to get it on the adapter. I would have preferred it to be slightly easier to fit.
The Clarke tank will hit the carb. I had to mold it with a heat gun to fit.
The 650L intake manifold boot is required and now $70 not $25 like it used to be.
That being said it works quite well when hot. The bike really doesn't like to idle until it's warmed up. I found that riding around with the choke on for a good 3-5 minutes til it gets hot is the best way to go. After that it idles fine. Does this sound normal?