Call all XR600R!!!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by CSMonte, Dec 8, 2008.

  1. xrjac

    xrjac XRJAC

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2017
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Conway, AR
    I have a 96 with a mikuni 42 mm and it acts the same way. It is normal and indicates proper idle circuit jetting. My girlfriends xt225, same exact thing. I leave choke on and ride it. Don't let it sit and run, as it will start to run too rich before fully warming up, both bikes the same. I just start it, let in run in choke until it just starts to slow down some, then take off riding and turn choke off when it can hold an idle, bout 2 to 4 min.
  2. Juddvong

    Juddvong Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2014
    Oddometer:
    40
    Thanks! Good to know.

    Ok on to the next thing on the to-do list. My bike came with an older baja designs lighting kit. I want to remove it and update it to a more modern setup. I've done this on a few bikes but the stator wiring has me a little confused. I want to install the trail tech regulator/rectifier to switch the power to DC.


    As you can see, the TT rectifier needs two wires from the stator to go into the rectfier.

    TT.jpg

    The factory stator has 3 wires coming out of it. Green, white/yellow and black/red.
    Green - ground
    black/red - goes to cdi
    white/yellow goes to the AC regulator

    So how would I be able to adapt the TT regulator onto the factory system? I want to bypass the AC regulator. I know this would be easy with a dual output stator but I'm hoping I can use what I have.
    XR harness.jpg
  3. xrjac

    xrjac XRJAC

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Conway, AR
    I would say you would use ground and the wire going to your ac regulator. The ac powered headlight uses ground as one of the leads. I kept the ac lighting stock and used the other phase on the aftermarket stator I had. But you should be able to just parallel off the wire leading to the ac regulator for one lead, and use ground for the other. Just don't try to power anything real heavy with it as the stock stator doesnt put out much wattage. It most likely will not run a normal 55 watt, but there are tons of leds out there it would. Then you could do away with the ac system. You will need a little battery to make the regulator function correctly. I use a really small AGM battery on top the air box. The folks at Ricky stator can also help out if you decide to replace the stator in the future. What year is your bike?
  4. Juddvong

    Juddvong Adventurer

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    Oddometer:
    40
    It's a 2000. According to these instructions for the RS stator, The green could be ground or sent to the R/R. That is assuming that the wiring is the same as stock.

    The closest to my setup would be diagram #3
    https://www.rickystator.com/images/upload/honda/RSXR600_B.pdf
  5. xrjac

    xrjac XRJAC

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2017
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
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    Here is what you have
    Hook the green and white/yel to regulator.

    Attached Files:

  6. Juddvong

    Juddvong Adventurer

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    40
    I think I'm going to get a new stator just for the piece of mind. What do you guys recommend? I saw one or two post about adapting a stator from a VT750? I would love to use an OEM stator if possible.
  7. xrjac

    xrjac XRJAC

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    Jul 21, 2017
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
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    I bought mine back in 2007 from baja designs. Still working fine. Don't blame you for wanting a factory stator that's high wattage. I dont which one it would be. I think my baja stator was rated at 125 watts per each circuit winding.
  8. XRHondafan

    XRHondafan Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2016
    Oddometer:
    2,197
    Anyone adopted cr500 seat, rear subframe and airbox to the 600?

    I kinda like the cr500 lines

    IMG_6988.jpg
  9. Wookazoid

    Wookazoid Tree Basher

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2010
    Oddometer:
    908
    Location:
    Goobertown, Arkansas
    I got my DC R/R from Baja Designs... Trail Tech requires modding for a floating ground, BD does not. That alone made a significant difference in the lighting. Not only that, but I could actually hear my horn. Like XRJAC, I have a small Tusk lithium battery mounted on top of my airbox. The stock stator decided to give up the ghost a few months after that, so got a Ricky Stator and everything works even better... lights are on par, if not better than my 650L. I had an old BD pseudo-XR style headlight as well but picked up an LED headlight and fabbed a bracket so that it would fit in the opening of my OEM headlight shroud. It's amazing how much brighter that is.

    I've had good luck with Ricky Stator... put one in my Yamaha Rhino SxS a couple of years ago and haven't had any issues with it.

    Greg
  10. Wookazoid

    Wookazoid Tree Basher

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2010
    Oddometer:
    908
    Location:
    Goobertown, Arkansas
    I just realized that is a CRE brochure... I had a 500 a long time ago:

    CRE500.jpg

    It was a hoot to ride, but swapped it for a '94 XR600R and never missed it.

    Seems like there was someone (A-Loop?) that made an aftermarket tank/shrouds and seat for the XR similar to the CR, but that may have been for the '96 and later 250 and 400.

    Greg
    XRHondafan likes this.
  11. bork

    bork Been here awhile

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    Oct 30, 2013
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    778
    Here a doable mix also.

    xrjac likes this.
  12. Juddvong

    Juddvong Adventurer

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    Jun 2, 2014
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    40
    Man, I've had some really bad luck with my bike. After swapping to a pumper carb, adding new dual sport lighting, and getting it registered. I still haven't taken it for a proper ride.

    When I first got it, it would fire right up but the Edelbrock carb was leaking and sticking. So I swapped it out for a FCR carb. Once I got that running, I took it 2 hours down to my local trails and it wouldn't fire. Threw a new stator on it and it was back running again. Came outside later that day to finally go on a proper first ride and bam, wouldn't start again. Checked everything possible and I'm only getting 90 psi of compression.

    FAIL! I did the test with the decomp removed and the valve adjuster on the decomp side removed. Throttle wide open, ect ect.

    So what's the most affordable way to approach this? I'm not worried about power, at this point I just want a reliable bike that starts every time. I'm wanting to take it on one of the BDR's next month.

    received_354049296328852.jpeg
  13. *perko

    *perko Adventurer

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    Oddometer:
    96
    Location:
    Sydney
    Sounds like the only major part you haven't touched is the motor, I'd be pulling the head, checking everything (including valves) while it's apart and reassembling.
    It's really not a big job, and as long as the piston and barrel are good you should only need minimal parts (head gasket and possibly valve springs/valves if they're worn).
  14. xrjac

    xrjac XRJAC

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    Jul 21, 2017
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
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    You might buy a leak down tester before disassembling. That will indicate leak down percentage, which is more accurate than a Kickstart compression test and it will let you determine where the air is escaping from(valves or bore) due to a stuck compression ring, etc.. Unless it jumped time on the cam chain when shut off, I'm skeptical of a compression issue. Do normal diagnostics. Was the plug dry? Spray carb cleaner under the air cleaner foam or in through a vacuum port on the carb and see if it hits, check spark, etc. With a new carb, you may not have it happy with enough, or too much fuel. Takes a while to learn the carbs quirks if it's not jetted quite right. Good luck.
  15. Juddvong

    Juddvong Adventurer

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    Oddometer:
    40
    I'm going to dig into it and try to figure out what is wrong.

    I ran through all the normal checks already and the only thing I can't get figured out is the compression. Spark good, starter fluid didn't make any difference. Carb was working great when it was running. I'm going to order a leak down tester and see what I get.

    Assuming the cylinder is fine. Would it be ok to just purchase the OEM sized Pro X cast piston? Or should I go for the over bore with a JE piston? I talked to the machine shop and it's $80 for an overbore and $120 for a valve job.
  16. JAB

    JAB Unsprung Weight Supporter

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    You might try the cheapo compression diagnosis. Test the compression as you have done. Squirt some motor oil into the spark plug hole and work that around with a few kicks and repeat the compression test. If the numbers go up significantly it can show ring and piston wear and you can look further at that. If unchanged or not by much you can suspect valves or cam chain. Have you checked the timing marks on the head chain sprocket and the mark on the flywheel? Needs to be pretty close to a match to be reliable. I have had the chain jump a tooth or 2 and that makes for crappy running and bent valves. If you have a manual and go by it's specs you will find the issue. IMO the cheapest and best way to solve these issues is to be systematic with the diagnosis and use Honda parts if at all possible. Read or search this thread for issues, there is a lot of knowledge and experience here.
    xrjac likes this.
  17. xrjac

    xrjac XRJAC

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    Jul 21, 2017
    Oddometer:
    9
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    I agree with Jab on parts. Also, if you still see hone marks all the way around cylinder with valves sealing well you might only need rings. Best to get head serviced though if engine shows signs of allot of hours, ie, oil consumption, etc.
  18. DicktheNick

    DicktheNick Adventurer

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    Sep 1, 2019
    Oddometer:
    32
    Location:
    Russia New Mexico
    Hey all, anyone have a STRAIGHT side stand for an '88 XR they could stand to part with? There's been an '87 on fleabay for awhile now, anyone know if it will work? Thanks.
  19. 2manyrides

    2manyrides shifty charactor

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,841
    Location:
    Citrus Heights Ca.
    IMG_7329.JPG

    No extra kickstands here... go fish. I would think the 87 is identical to your 88.
    Hey here's a shot from today's ride. I did not stop for long at any one spot today. 5 hours away from home, 4 hrs 6 min ride time. 155 miles. This shot in Pipi valley.
  20. 2manyrides

    2manyrides shifty charactor

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    This is a heads up. The photo in the post above is from the 8/14/21 ride through elkins flat. Just hours before this horrible caldor fire erupted. I heard it started in the gold note campgrounds. Which is 1/2 mile from that location.
    I didn't go there, I went past the gold note staging area. This is kind of a "trailer" for the video I am working on. It will show my ride through the area while it was still green.
    DRY as hell, but green.
    This burning in the mountains hits me hard as that's where my direction is even if it's a touring street ride. I make a loop through the mountains and back to the valley. But still...! dualsport rides go there and single track... SINGLE TRACK! This is where the trails are. This area has an extensive trail system. The Eldorado National Forest has closed all roads and trails until september 30th as of today. So they can get a handle on the fire, repair utilities and keep people safe. It's a $5,000 fine and 6 months in jail if they want to throw the book at you for being back there now!
    This burning up the trails hits me right in the heart.