Last year my wife and I rode Vietnam for 3 weeks. This year, we were joined by our son for another ride which started off in Cambodia and ended up in the parts of North Vietnam that we never saw last time. It was good having a family ride. I could have started this report telling you about our great hotel, or the shopping at the night market. But I am not going to. I am starting this report with a sad and more serious beginning. My interest in Cambodia is: #1 The riding. #2 The people #3 The history I didnt have any intention of following this train of thought but while having a beer along the waterfront of Phnom Penh, people watching, as you do. I couldnt help but notice how industrious and smiling everyone seemed to be, real go-getters, rather than begging, even the poorest were at least trying to sell something, lighters, books etc. What a wonderful resilient people they seemed to be. Cambodia's recent history reads something like hell on earth. A small, peaceful nation was taken to the brink of human suffering. Even still, talking to people, they just want to get on with things, forget, forgive, whatever works for them. First, there was the bombing, secret only to the outside world. For the Cambodians it must have been sheer terror. Four years of bombing, killing around 600,000. Then in the aftermath, came the Khmer Rouge, with Pol Pot and his henchmen killing around another two million over a 4 year period. Just to try and achieve a pure form of Communism . Ya, right. This tiny country suffered so much for some maniac's warped ideals. After discussing this with my wife and son, we decided to visit some of the sites that were connected to the genocide by the Khmer Rouge. Make no mistake, this turned out to be very hard. My wife stayed outside a lot of the time. None of us liked it, but we all agree that by doing so it gave us a better understanding of things before just heading out on the bikes. At 58 I am not so impressionable anymore, yet this did leave an impression on me and that is why I am including it in my report. I hope this first part is OK to post, it was part of our ride. Tuol Sleng (S-21) was once a High School. 17,000 +prisoners went through this converted school. Only 7 survived. Security Notices (translated) found in most blocks. There were 189 other prisons like this around Cambodia. The Khmer Rouge was so sure in themselves that they recorded their atrocities by photographing their victims. Many were sent to the Killing Fields, which were also spread all over the countryside. Choeung Ek, a monument dedicated to the many that perished. This site is just one of the 20,000 mass grave sites found. A killer's grave. We were riding along the North west border area and this was pointed out to us. Pol Pot died in 1998 before he could be arrested. By 1999 most of the Khmer Rouge had been captured or had surrendered. Most of the surviving Khmer Rouge leaders live in the Pailin area or are hidden in Phnom Penh. It looks like only family members care for this, surrounding area is a mess, lots of rubbish around. The rest of the report is more about now and ancient history. 7th to 12th century temples.