Canisterectomy on an 'early 04' 950

Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by Gert, May 1, 2004.

  1. Gert

    Gert Made in Denmark

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    Someone asked for a step-by step description of a Canisterectomy on a 950..

    Please note that the procedure on a ‘late 04’ model is a litte different, as the canister setup is more complex. My check valves came from eline, and had a short piece of clear tube included.



    Steps:

    1) Grab a pair of pliers and put them in the pocket. Remove the allen head bolts in the left side panel (that holds the turn signal) and slowly pull it out. Unplug the connector for the turn signal and pull the black vent hose off the nipple on the tank. Pull on the other black hoses until you see a connector, and unplug them. You will need the pliers for that.
    2) Remove the right side panel in the same way.
    3) Remove the black vent hose from the right side panel. You will need to slide the clamps off for that.
    4) Turn the left side panel around and remove the black inner panel by removing all of the philipps head screws.
    5) Remove the canister and all the vent hoses and reassemble the side panel.
    6) Slide the check valve onto a short vent hose. If your check valves do not come with a pice of vent hose, then use one of the hoses
    you removed.
    7) Slide the short vent hoses onto the vent nipples on the tanks.
    8) Cap off the remaining vent line on the left side. It disappears between radiator and oil tank. It goes to the underside of the very front of the airbox.
    9) Reassemble the side panels.
    10) If you at some point later remove the radiator, then remove the vent hose from the airbox and cap the nipple off.


    Remember : Never fill both tanks to the max, especially not when you intend to let the engine idle for longer periods of time.


    Gert
    #1
  2. Gert

    Gert Made in Denmark

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    The canister

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    #2
  3. Gert

    Gert Made in Denmark

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    The check valve

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    #3
  4. Gert

    Gert Made in Denmark

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    Vent hose removed and capped at the air filter box.

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    #4
  5. MookieBlaylock

    MookieBlaylock Long timer

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    thanks
    #5
  6. Shuffler

    Shuffler Hommes Grande

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    Nice Gert - thanks. Look forward to doing this myself, after the initial 600 mile service. Mine has a 12/03 manufacture date and the sticker inside the left panel where the canister is says "California Model" or something like that. I saw all those hoses and crap and can't wait to yank it all out.

    What did you do about the vent hoses that run from the carbs? I ordered some one-way vents and plan to just stick those on the ends of the carb hoses and forget about 'em. Did you cap them, leave them dangling, or what?
    #6
  7. Nightstalker

    Nightstalker YO BUDDYPAL!

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    Thanks for the great write up. I'll be following your instructions hopefully this weekend. That is, unless it's too nice and then I'll be out riding!!

    Boy oh boy, this bike is fun!!
    #7
  8. Gert

    Gert Made in Denmark

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    Don't know my manufacture date - where can I see it ?
    Mine has that sticker, too. But there are some things shown on the sticker that were not on the bike...

    My bike would be called a 2003 model in Europe, but in the US they all call them '04 models - that's why I referred to it as an 'early 04' model. It has a less complicated canister setup - there are no hoses to the carbs, just one to the air filter box.

    Sorry, but I do not know how the 'late 04' setup looks like. I've never seen it.
    #8
  9. gorgopodaros

    gorgopodaros Been here awhile

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    Funny, but my '04 950 has no canister :huh

    I found out today, while I was on my ( :boid ) mechanic for the 1000 km service that there was no canister on the left or the right side, only tubes that ran down the fairing

    Yesterday I parked the bike after refuelling (I did not top it up) and after a while there was fuel all over the place...

    I saw today on my ( :boid) mechanic that the right side tube was "squeezed" in the inner black plastic, so that should be the reason as the tank couldn't breath...
    That seemed to be the reason for another thing: Running out of gas and right side tank being full...
    So it pays to check those lines in the first place.
    #9
  10. gamdh

    gamdh Adventurer

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    Thanks for the write up Gert. I just finished the canisterectomy and it was as simple as you described. The step by step definitely helps those of us who are mechanically challenged. :D

    If I bump into you around town, I'll have to buy you a beer. :beer
    #10
  11. Shuffler

    Shuffler Hommes Grande

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    ...I took step one in my canisterectomy, which was to yank the tank vent hoses and replace with simple one-way filter vents. I felt compelled to try and post pictures, since there are different canister setups depending on model year. My bike has a 12/03 manufacture date. Step two will be the carb vent hoses - I didn't feel like tackling that one without making sure I did step one right (seems impossible to screw it up, but it could happen).

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    #11
  12. Shuffler

    Shuffler Hommes Grande

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    this photo shows what my canister setup looks like - it includes a carb valve which, I presume, feeds back to another similar valve underneath the airbox (according to another post on this subject).

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    #12
  13. Shuffler

    Shuffler Hommes Grande

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    this pic is of the one-way vent I purchased from Kevins Cycle (www.kevinscycleracing.com) for each of the tanks. A simple fix to all those stupid hoses, and this setup allows each tank to vent indepentently, and won't allow the gas to leak out.

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    #13
  14. Shuffler

    Shuffler Hommes Grande

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    these two hoses are what is left after 'step one' of my canisterectomy. The larger hose on the left is plugged for now; it just runs up along the radiator hose to the underside of the front of the airbox - I will plug it at the airbox when I have time/motivation to yank the tanks off.

    The smaller hose on the left was plugged back into the canister line until I get to 'step two' another time (I want to be sure this procedure hasn't negatively affected anything first). The hose runs back to underneath the airbox somewhere, where I'm guessing it plugs into the other valve (If anybody knows different, let me know!)

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    #14
  15. Shuffler

    Shuffler Hommes Grande

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    Now, can somebody tell me what this thing is? It looks unnecessary - can I yank it outta there without compromising something else? Is this part of the secondary air system (SAS)? Is there a similar thing at the front of the airbox, too? (I haven't looked yet)

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    #15
  16. MookieBlaylock

    MookieBlaylock Long timer

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    thats my question too. I think its part of the sas crap. I was hoping to just cap off the hose and the opening in the airbox both there and on the hose going into the top of the airbox. And not actually remove the hoses just yet. My bike just got richend one needle position and got new pipes---it runs much better but---it still pops on deceleration and from what i gather the sas could be part of the problem
    #16
  17. Shuffler

    Shuffler Hommes Grande

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    yeah, I put the Akras on last week and tonight took the first step in venting the tanks properly. I don't want to do too much until my dealer does the first service, so I need to get some miles in this weekend. There was a posting in another thread about the SAS, and it had some pics of the parts that got yanked, but no pics of which holes to plug, etc. I figure one step at a time is a good approach, since you can gauge your progress and fix things rather than do 4 or 5 mods at once and not know which one is causing any problems.
    #17
  18. Bravo100

    Bravo100 Been here awhile

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    I bought a couple of valves that don't look anything like what I have seen here. If I blow in the direction of the "tank" mark, air will go through. If I blow the other way I can hear the valve close and the air doesn't go through. I read somewhere that the valves we need on the 950 let air go both ways, but stop the fuel from going out. Can anyone confirm?
    #18
  19. Doug Matson

    Doug Matson Long timer Supporter

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    That is the SAS valve, if you are running stock cans leave it on,if you got aftermarket take it off. You can just remove the valve and plug the lines it connects to from the side of both heads or make blanking plates for the reed valve ports on the side of the heads ,your choice. It injects freash air into the exhaust to mix with the exhaust gases to clean un the emmissions.
    #19
  20. Greg Minor

    Greg Minor The Trespasser

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    Here is another reason to remove the canister what you see in this picture is the perfect spot to carry my Tyerpliers bead breaker and tire irons

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    #20