Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by ebrabaek, Jan 8, 2011.
This might be the best thread I've ever read online. Truly inspiring! Now I'm thinking of things to make for my monster. Any reason not to use the carbon Kevlar hybrid cloths as opposed to individual layers of each?
No reason what so ever...... Find the mix and color you like.....and give it a go...... I`m still looking for a black/bumble bee orange combo.......
Thank you so much for your detailed educational thread . It inspired me to start my own DIY pannier project.
Bumble bee orange? Us composites is showing black and orange cf/Kevlar in stock.
Soller as well. They have a ton of colors, actually. Fibreglast has yellow and red.
Absolutely....... I will look into your thread tomorrow....... Until then.....
Yeppers...... But it is not a good match with the bmw orange.....imho...
all i can say is amazing
i am so happy i stumbled across thread Erling.
i have been wanting to learn how to do composites for a few years now. i think this thread has broken the ice for me. im going to try it. FINALLY.
i have bookmark your fairing and bash plate thread that you referenced. i will read those also before i start my first project. do you have any more links that you can think of that may be beneficial for us beginners? books to read? videos to watch?
after reading this whole thread i feel as though i already know you. its to bad you didnt buy a ktm adventure.
one quick question..... if i wanted to start with something easy, say a rear side fairing. anything really, that dosnt have a lot of crazy contours. can you use the actual part as a mold? or will it be destroyed in the process? or do you replicate the piece out of foam?
Your quite welcome...........There are a few things you need to consider when making a mold...... Is it for yourself....or with possible production in mind.....? To answer your question... You can copy pieces already on your bike..... see the threads below. But you cannot sell...or in any way profit from your copy`s...... By doing so you are violating said copyright. But you can copy the pieces all you want for your own consumption. I have done both.....But never sold....even given away pieces made from somebody else copyrighted material..... For that... I make my own molds..... If you use epoxy you don`t destroy the original..... With polyester resins.... you can do some damage due to some intolerance with certain plastics.....and the polyester`s composure. I have a string of threads over at the thumper talk forum.......see the link`s below...... I have been looking at the 690 enduro.....and If I replace my pimped Suzuki DRZ...... That might be the bike for me....... Just not sure I will gain much......
thank you for all of the links. JACKPOT!!
If it matters, I always suggest that people start with fiberglass and low grade epoxy resin. Use cheap shears "borrowed" from the wife, newspaper for patterns, blocks of wood for molds...basically get a feel for working with the stuff without spending a lot of money. It's kind of the same thing as learning how to ride a motorcycle--it's better in the long run to start on a forgiving small displacement bike than to throw your money at a 1000cc sportbike right away as a noobsquidz.
Less than $100 in supplies can keep you busy for a while with glass. Start with a flat plate and basic shapes. Try to lay a C-channel on a 2x4. (Harder than it sounds) Learn the nuances of the wax and mold release. Use it as a cheap way to prototype parts for your bike, or to trial an error complicated parts--getting patterns correct, laying over edges/corners, etc. Then move into CF and higher grade epoxy and start building stuff you're actualy going to use.
What's the main structural difference between the hybrid and dedicated cloths, besides the obvious thickness of two layers vs one, and when would they be used typically?
I have not done any structural testing of the hybrids....... So academically......I can`t say..... Kevlar has more impact and abrasive properties than CF....whereas CF has much more torsional stiffness...... In certain apps.... The interweave of the composites could be a benefit.... But I think the short answer to your question.....is ..... NONE...beside looks.... And that they have..... If you like it....get it.....
i just joined thumper talk and starting with your hand guards thead Erling . im super stoked. i am going to practice with fiber glass first. is the technique the same? should i use polyester resin or epoxy for the fiber glass? i guess i can start making molds out of fiberglass. i have alot of questions. hopefully most will be answered as i go thru the threads. lots of reading to do.
Awesome...... Practice......with glass....as BXR said...... will act about the same....and is cheaper...... But try to use epoxy...... there are generally less complications than with polyester........ Polyester geltime is short......and when it starts to gell..... it does it fast...... where ever the fabric is when it gells...... it stays. But I obviously used it a lot..... But has mostly switched to epoxy. I only use one brand...... that meets the clearity.....and strength that I desire. If you post up as you go along either here....or at TT....shoot me a pm....so I can help.......
You have inspired a number of use to try this Carbon Fiber stuff and also urged us to write about our experiences. Well, I finally figured out how to use Smug Mug and here we go.
Now, in previous replies I have mentioned working on the F800GS fairing which is still underway but I finished this part first so decided to post the results as a trial run at posting threads.
I would love your feedback.
All the best,
What do you do to the insides to make them smooth/point free?
I have some kevlar fibers that stick up and are a tad sharp.
I use these....... On a Dremel.....
Trick is to go slowly so as not to create too much heat. That is a common thing with Kevlar....as it need to be either sheared....or ground of. If the resin heats up over it`s stress level.... It will not hold the rigidity.....and you are now grinding yarn. So go slow..... When/is the resin softens.....stop... let cool....and go over it again..... That`s another reason I prefer high temp epoxy working with Kevlar.... That gives you a 400 deg.C. barrier. Many times when I had to use low temp epoxy....I find it useful to use a razor blade to slowly saw off the threads....as well.... Hope this helps....