Carinthian (and maybe some Styrian) Alps, Austria 2021 edition

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by dolomoto, Jun 29, 2021.

  1. dolomoto

    dolomoto Destroyer of Motorcycles Supporter

    Joined:
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    After spending the last 6 weeks working in Tunisia, I'm ready for a moto trip. I flew back to my home in Italy early this morning (Tuesday, 29 June) and will hit the road on Friday, 2 July. I have some work to do around Grafenwohr, Germany from 5-17 July but am making time to do some moto riding on the way to and from Grafenwohr. Will likely return home around 24 July.

    Most of Europe is open to tourism in some way. I have a residency permit, am vaccinated and will be traveling with a German translation of my Covid certificate.

    First up was taking is taking a look at the Mosko Moto Backcountry 35 bags I ordered (I feel like I won the lottery by being able to order them, lol). I decided to go back to soft bags instead of the OEM Hepco Becker hard bags on my Buell Uly XT. The HB bags are not completely waterproof and are a PITA to open/close due to an odd latch design. I'm also removing the OEM top rack to fit a MM BC 50L duffle. That should be plenty of room for my work stuff and the camping gear I'll use.

    My wife lugged the bags from the garage and remarked about how sturdy they felt...and heavy.

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    Alpine weather can be fickle and I think the weather forecaster (guessers) default to a rainy scenario. We camp a lot and have good gear. Two different weather apps have different forecasts for next weekend in the area I'll be camping: https://camping-dachstein.at/

    The stock Android weather app has a forecast that's not so dire as a few days ago; still it looks to be a fair amount of rain:

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    I have better luck with the app "Ventusky". Looks like a slightly more moto favorable forecast:

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    I'm in a bit of a tear around the house to get my business clothes washed and repacked, get my camping gear sorted and get the Uly back on the road from it's 6 week slumber (reinstall the battery, install MM racks, check TP, test ride, etc.).

    For POI's, I'm using an Open Street Map database that I've curated from this thread (map link in first post):

    https://advrider.com/f/threads/europe-roads-and-routes-off-the-beaten-path.1441071/

    For navigation, I'm using a Kyocera Duraforce Pro 2 and a Tight Squeeze mount...should be plenty up to the task.

    It's going to be a great trip!
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  2. pete3

    pete3 Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Black Forest, Germany
    Welcome to Germany! You might want to bring good rain gear, my friend.
    #2
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  3. dolomoto

    dolomoto Destroyer of Motorcycles Supporter

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    The trickle charger did it's thing and I was able to fill this hole:

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    Ahh...I think I'm missing a tool. Can you spot what I'm missing to install the battery?

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    I regrouped back in the apartment and unpacked my Tunisian libations. Did you know they have been making wine and booze for thousands of years?

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    Boukha is especially interesting.

    Once I remembered where I left my screwdriver for the battery screws, I got "Buell-ah" running again. Oh sweet sound.

    <iframe allow="fullscreen" allowfullscreen="true" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" width="1920" height="1080" src=""></iframe>

    A bit of before and after with the OEM HB bags and the MM Backcountry 35L bags:

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    The last bit, a "piece de resistance" is a proper bar bag from Chase Harper. I've tried to shy away from tank bags on Buellah and this bag is the perfect size for my small camera and the odd toll tickets and change:

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    I also dabbed some RTV around my weeping clutch cable (where it enters the tranny) and checked the tire pressures...all good. Tomorrow is road check and a grocery run.
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  4. dolomoto

    dolomoto Destroyer of Motorcycles Supporter

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    To get the MM 50L duffel bag to sit correct, I needed to remove the HB top case mount. At first glance, it appeared that I should start with the outside mounting bolts and then the rack would slide off. Too bad that the Torx bolt head was mostly inaccessible and stuck from years of road grime. Trying to spin the nut off was useless.
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    The below is before I properly gouged it with cheap drill bits.

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    Trying to drill with cheap bits was a pointless endeavor.

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    I frustration, I laid down on the garage floor. My gaze cast upon these four bolts...what if they were the only thing mounting the top case rack to the subframe?

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    Once removed, I was able to wrestle the topcase mounting frame with only losing a DOT-mandated red reflector from the side. No biggie.

    The weather forecast is much improved (!) with mostly clear skies for tomorrow's departure and riding all day Saturday. Sunday looks to be a bit rainy in the afternoon, luckily I brought along some good reading.

    KSU at 0700 tomorrow.
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  5. dolomoto

    dolomoto Destroyer of Motorcycles Supporter

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    Location:
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    On the road by around 0800 with fair skies and a good forecast...always a good combo for moto riding. Took one last look down the street:

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    Unfortunately, my moto is parked a 10 min walk from my street; luckily, I had packed up the night before and had only to check straps before getting on the road.

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    I decided to get on with it and take the autostrada most of the way to Austria lest it would take the better part of a long day to get to the border near Villach. I stopped to get a "Viacard" which is a card pre-loaded with euro that can be used in place of cash or credit card at the toll booths. I highly recommend using Viacards when in Italy. The card itself doesn't cost anything and I just paid for the 50 euro that I got on it (they come in preset amounts).

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    In addition to the tolls, gas is ridiculous. I paid 24 euro (about $28usd) for 14 liters...my bike gets around 45mpg so it's not too bad. Today I rode 400 miles and paid 33 euro in tolls and another 8 euro for a "vignette" which is a sticker that Austria requires to use their autobahn (some of the sections have additional tolls). The 8 euro vignette is good for 10 days.

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    That comes to around $7.50usd per gallon. That's the price of fun, amirite?

    I got off the autostrada about 15 miles short of the main border and aimed for a minor pass (Passo Pramollo) to cross into Austria.

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    This pass isn't especially notable but it's lightly traveled with good pavement on the Austrian side...the Italian side has quite a bit of construction; still it was nice to get some scenery and the temp was in the 50's as I crested the pass.

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    The Austrian side was fun but I'm still taking it easy on account of the new luggage and having been off the bike for 6 weeks.

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    It was mostly auto-yawn to where I was camping. I did make some time to get a screw top of wine to go with my gourmet meal.

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    A few notes:

    -the italy/austria border on Passo Pramollo was unmanned; I think they were checking for vaccination cards or PCR tests up until a few days ago.
    -most of austria is "open" with masks worn only inside in public places. the campground only allows guests with proof of vaccination, proof of recovery from covid or negative PCR test from within 48 hours.

    Tomorrow is likely to be my best day of weather so I'm headed to the NockAlmstrasse and maybe the Goldech Panorama Road.
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  6. dolomoto

    dolomoto Destroyer of Motorcycles Supporter

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    Today was a great day of riding; clear and cool weather all day. Leaving Ramsau am Dachstein, I could tell it was going to be a great day of riding.

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    It was about a 90 minute ride from the campground to the NockAlmstrasse entrance (9 euro for moto's).

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    As expected, the NockAlmstrasse was full of spectacular scenery. The road management team takes great pride in keeping the road swept and in good repair.

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    Along the 'Nock, there are couple of restaurants. This one is by far the largest with lots of parking and moto only parking right up front.

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    Since it was so busy, I asked to share a table with two other moto riders. Turns out they were from Germany and suggested I try the "Kaiserschmarren".. basically, a sweet pancake with a raisin sauce and served with applesauce, excellent! I had a Radler (half lemonade, half pilsner) to wash it down.

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    After leaving the 'Nock, I made my way to the Goldech Panoramastrasse. I had a spot of trouble finding the entrance road due to confusing signage:

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    #1 points to what I thought was the road going down the hill. Among the many small green signs on #2 was a listing for the Goldeckstrasse. I took # 1 and it was a 45 minute round trip back to this point for me to see that I took the wrong road. The Goldeck is a dead end and not nearly as scenic as the 'Nock but there is lots of hiking along the way and especially at the end.

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    After leaving the Goldech, I had a 2-3 hour ride back to the campsite. I didn't want to dally too much but found a nice road that went along the A10 Auto-yawn and followed a river north...very nice.

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    Much closer the campground, there's the Dachstein glacier up around 9000'. Not very visible in this photo but it's up there and you can take a cable car to it.

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    Close the campground, my curve-o-meter was pegged and I was ready for some post ride libation.

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    Forgetting to pack a cup, I drank this morning's coffee from my 1qt pot. On the way home this evening, I bought some bottom shelf KY bourbon and I biggest issue is whether to use the empty beer bottle or empty wine bottle to mix a bit of coke in.

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    Life is good.
    #6
  7. NSFW

    NSFW Death Valley Noobs Rally 2022 Super Supporter

    Joined:
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    happy to tag along while you pay for the $$$ gas.....:clap

    those Mosko luggage are almost indestructable. put a big hole from a low side but the waterproof liner was unscathed. MM EU offered to replace the bag but it is still fully functional so i declined.

    i still have them mounted on the G650XCo which i will be riding again in a few weeks.
    :lurk
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  8. dolomoto

    dolomoto Destroyer of Motorcycles Supporter

    Joined:
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    On Sunday, I meandered thru some minor passes and made my way to the lake town of Bad Goisern on Lake Hallstat (Hallstatersee). I just happened to pull off randomly and found a place that has been around for 450 years! Not always the same business but the property has some provenance.

    https://www.steegwirt.at/
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    And they have their own beer:

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    I think they know what they got: great location (overlooking a low water dam), provenance and ample outdoor seating to enjoy the nearby mountains. I paid a princely 18euro for a schnitzel, some corn/rice and a beer...oof.

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    I rode thru the town of Hallstat, it looked amazing! But, there was a festival and it was absolutely jam-packed with people. Still, it was a nice ride around the lake and I happened to see another Buell (a white 1125R), a rare thing in these parts. In anticipation of the rainy forecast, I made my way back to the campground. I had planned on stopping for some vittles at a grocery store but the "blue laws" are in full effect in most of Austria...not much was open other than a few restaurants and very few gas stations. Dinner was my backup: fried spam, pasta and kidney beans...I won't sully these pages with that pathetic photo, lol.

    I got in some apres-dinner reading ("the Ionian Mission") and watched the storm clouds roll in.

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    The storm rolled in thru the pass on the lower left and it rained quite hard most of the night.

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    Once the rain started, I retreated to the bar:

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    This morning dawned with clearing skies and I took my time getting packed up...new tent, new pack system, etc. Got on the road by 1030 with the intention of taking back roads to Salzburg. Once near the city, I saw a turnoff for Bertchesgarten and took it. The view did not disappoint.

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    The day was mostly dry with only a spot of rain as I got close to Grafenwohr. I prudently stopped to don my rain gear lest I arrive with soaking wet leathers. Meanwhile, I set a record for mileage on a tank of fuel on my Uly...201 miles!

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    The fuel pump reckons I had about 1.7L left...ouch. The fill up was about 28 usd.

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    I'm working here in Graf' until 16 June. I hope to get some local riding in next weekend. Once I depart on the 16th, I'm not sure where I'll head...maybe Slovenia? Maybe the western Alps (which I've hardly ridden)? Tough problems, amirite?
    #8