Carpenter Talk

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by disconnected, Jan 22, 2016.

  1. GutsyGibbon

    GutsyGibbon Adventurer

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    I was able to complete my tool shed this weekend. My biggest challenge was to place the shed close to the wall, but not attach to the wall. We have lots of rats that nest in our palm tree, so I wanted to seal the back of the shed. I built the complete back wall with the siding and then continued to install the rest of the shed.
    The other challenge were the doors. I made a few noob errors with the hinge placement, trims, and panel gaps. I was not able to install trims on the doors, which makes it look rather bland. Also, I think I picked a latch and a door handle that are way too small. Other than that, the shed is very much functional. I am looking forward to build a mobile workbench and stick it in this shed.

    20190811_181108.jpg
  2. Gillmartin

    Gillmartin Desultory Dilettante Supporter

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    The slab is pretty standard pole barn construction; 4" of 3000psi concrete. Is that not adequate? And if not, I assume I need to go down 24" with the footer?
    Steel beams might be worth looking into, thanks.
  3. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Super Ordinary

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    Update--I wound up buying a few Fein carbide metal cutting blades and used a multimaster tool. Worked well enough, 1 blade would last through 10 screws = 1 blade per panel. Definitely better than the bi-metal blades. No flames or burnt wood :lol3 like I got once using a bi-metal blade. Really appreciate everyone who posted with ideas.

    I will say that Andersen's quality control has gone down the toilet...one panel was supplied without any of the supporting parts and pieces needed for install, the other had supporting parts & pieces, but for a different model panel. :baldy Took 3 phone calls and 1 superb customer support person (after getting a useless one) to get it straightened out. Oh yeah, and a week's delay, and $60 additional cost to get the right parts. I haven't decided whether to fight them over that, as it will cost me well over $60 in time just to fight with them.
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  4. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Super Ordinary

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    Most likely not. The only way to tell is to do the engineering work needed--figure the load you want to support, determine the bearing capacity needed, and compare that to what you have. There's really no shortcut to doing the math.
    MrBob likes this.
  5. TheOtherBart

    TheOtherBart Long timer

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    If the math doesn't work out in your favor another alternative would be to place something like steel plates between your posts and the concrete. If the plates are thick enough to distribute the load a 12"x12" plate would reduce the pressure on the concrete by a factor of 4 compared to the 6"x6" post itself.
    silsen likes this.
  6. Camarodude

    Camarodude Been here awhile

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    Drawer Slides question??? - 24" drawer slides, full extension.
    How do you get the last (third) screw at the back of the drawer?
    Is taking the drawer off, once it is all installed, to get those back screws, the only way?
  7. GutsyGibbon

    GutsyGibbon Adventurer

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    Can you use a 90 degree impact ready right angle attachment? Amazon link
  8. MrBob

    MrBob Long timer Supporter

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    I almost made it through a season without getting stung by a wasp. Didn’t even see the little bastard before he nailed me.
  9. Camarodude

    Camarodude Been here awhile

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    i have the room. just cant seem to get the the three pieces of the slide to line up to hit that last hole. thought i may doing something wrong.
  10. lkraus

    lkraus Long timer

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    Which manufacturer and model? They are not all the same.

    Nearly all have an easy way to remove the entire drawer with it's portion of the slide, leaving easy access to all of the drawer screws. Pull the drawer all the way out, and look for a lever at the end of the first sliding section that serves as the drawer stop. On this Accuride, it is the wedge shaped piece.
    drawer slide.jpg
    The Accuride instructions linked above actually call for separating the drawer and cabinet sections before installing either. Once the levers have been released the drawer can be pulled out of the cabinet. Sometimes the levers move up, sometimes they move in different directions on opposite sides. I've seen some slides that have a plastic stop that have to be pried out instead. The moving sections are left in the cabinet, but access to those screws is just a matter of moving the slides back and forth until they are uncovered.
    Re-installing the drawer is just a matter of lining up the lever type slides and closing the drawer completely. The plastic pry-out types usually need to be inserted with the slides partially pulled out for access.
    thebigman, GregDavidL and GutsyGibbon like this.
  11. GregDavidL

    GregDavidL Been here awhile

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    ^^^

    That brings back memories of the cabinet shop and having to program the CNC router to drill the holes in the parts.

    Ugh...
  12. Camarodude

    Camarodude Been here awhile

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    They are some no name, i got off ebay.
    It looks like the only way is to separate the slide parts, to get to that last screw.
    Wow, installing separately to drawer, and cabinet, does not sound like fun.
    I installed as a whole unit to the cabinet.

    Thanks for the feedback!
  13. filmfan

    filmfan Long timer

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    The answer to drawer slide questions is Blum
    They are pricey though.
  14. TheOtherBart

    TheOtherBart Long timer

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    I haven't done it nearly as much as others here, but in my experience it's way easier installing the two halves of the slide separately.
  15. GregDavidL

    GregDavidL Been here awhile

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    The drawer guide parts are fastened separately.

    To position the drawer guide parts that go on the drawer box, we used a shop-made jig.

    If the cabinets were face frame construction, the other drawer guide parts were attached to a "cradle", again using a shop-made positioning jig. (The vast majority of our cabinets were face-frame.)

    Euro-style (frameless) cabinets had the guide mounting holes drilled by the CNC router in the side panels.

    For both styles of cabinetry construction, we had jigs for mounting the drawer fronts to the boxes.

    It was not unusual for us to have employees that had great difficulties using a tape measure, so for us it was all about using jigs to speed up production and to eliminate the dumb-ass factor.
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  16. jar944

    jar944 Long timer

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    Install bare slide in cabinet, then separate halves, then install remaining half on drawer,

    Thats the easy way.. as a entire unit as you have discovered is a huge pita
  17. Camarodude

    Camarodude Been here awhile

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    Ya, i like that idea. Could set the drawer in place, mark, separate and install.
    Thanks.
  18. GregDavidL

    GregDavidL Been here awhile

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    Like the Accuride example posted above by @lkraus, the manufacturer will supply spec sheets, both for the guides and clearances for the boxes.

    How elaborate or invested in purchased or shop-made jigs and fixtures you want to be kind of depends on how many drawers you have to deal with.

    Figuring out the set up for the first one is the hard part. The rest are easy.
    Camarodude likes this.
  19. Renaissanceman

    Renaissanceman DON'T PANIC! Supporter

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    Haha... Ain't that the truth! First one takes a half hour - the next one takes two minutes!
    I almost always make a full scale drawing on a piece of 1/4"mdf to get my slides located.
    Lay out the slides off of the centerlines.
    Hold the case member back 4mm from the face of the cabinet and flush the drawer box member with the back of the drawer front. Easy

    Accuride, Haffele or eBay... they'll all have the same hole pattern.
    Camarodude likes this.
  20. MrBob

    MrBob Long timer Supporter

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    [​IMG]
    This is bad dog Gordon. I got called back to his house after he trashed the plastic protectors the homeowners put up and scratched the door again.
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