Carpenter Talk

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by disconnected, Jan 22, 2016.

  1. nuggets

    nuggets It's all my fault...

    Joined:
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    I'm working on painting the trim on my house, and as tends to happen with old houses, there's escalation...

    I found some rot on some fascia board and soffit panels. So I tore into it cause I have more enthusiasm than intelligence.

    It's at the bottom of a valley. You can see I have already removed the soffit panels and one fascia board.
    IMG_20191012_122833.small.jpg


    IMG_20191012_121301.small.jpg
    Looking up at the bottom of the roof sheathing, and you can see the fungus is starting to spread to the lower sheathing board.
    Can I just clean the fungus off the lower sheathing board and apply some sort of anti-fungal?
    Product reccomendations?
    I am hoping to complete this repair without disturbing the shingles.


    IMG_20191012_122828.small.jpg
    Here, I am planning to cut away the rot from the bottom of the rafters and sister in some good wood.

    IMG_20191012_122846.small.jpg
    Here, I will cut out a few feet of the rotted fascia, and install a new piece of composite fascia.
  2. lkraus

    lkraus Long timer

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    Water is getting under the shingles and causing the rot. You need to fix the leak or any repairs you make will also rot, until you can keep the area dry. Unfortunately, that may mean "disturbing" the shingles.
    Sorry.
    nuggets likes this.
  3. nuggets

    nuggets It's all my fault...

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    I have been in this house for a couple of years now. It's got a new roof on it (pretty new when I moved in anyhow). I think the damage is from the previous roof.

    I took apart another area where I have some rot. Here there were some new trim boards covering up the rotted section. It looks like someone else worked on this, but only replaced some rotted trim pieces and left the damaged wood underneath. Here, I will have to mess with the shingles a bit because the lowest sheathing boards are pretty damaged.

    IMG_20191012_162805.small.jpg
    This trim board will have to be fixed. I will cut out the bad section and put in some composite trim. The trim I have removed here was newer and still in good shape.

    IMG_20191012_162737.small.jpg
    This damage was hidden by new trim.

    IMG_20191012_163833.small.jpg
    At least I won't be bored this weekend.
    waylongway likes this.
  4. MrBob

    MrBob In the Pines. Supporter

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    Using a flat bar, it isn't hard to remove shingles from the bottom up. If you need access to the subroof, off they come. If you're trying to limit the scope of this project, you can use a liquid wood hardener on some of the wood. HD has it in a yellow can in the paint dept. Don't be shy when applying. I use a foam brush or, in your case, squirting it on might work better. This will stabilize the wood but don't count on the wood to hold fasteners.
    Plywood is not a suitable material for facias.
    nuggets likes this.
  5. nuggets

    nuggets It's all my fault...

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    Thanks @MrBob

    I'll be using PVC board for the fascia. Sheathing ply to replace the rotted soffit bits. I think I'll just cut out the rotten bits and sister in some good wood.

    The shingles I can deal with. I did roofing full time back in the day. Enough not to want to do it again.
    SourKraut likes this.
  6. nuggets

    nuggets It's all my fault...

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    I got one of the rotted areas all patched up.

    IMG_20191013_104249.small.jpg
    PVC fascia board to replace the sections with rot.

    MVIMG_20191013_112650.small.jpg
    Some new pieces of soffit paneling.

    Now caulk and paint will make me the carpenter I ain't!
    knight and waylongway like this.
  7. nuggets

    nuggets It's all my fault...

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2010
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    Location:
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    I got my rotted bits sorted.

    Cut out the rot here, and put in some new wood. I got under the shingles and replaced the lower boards on the roof.
    MVIMG_20191013_165020.small.jpg

    All buttoned up.
    IMG_20191014_172448.small.jpg

    Ready for caulk and paint.
  8. fire88dog

    fire88dog CaptainStache

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    Love the Kreg Jig/pocket screw holes in the framing... Clean way to get a nice tight joint when you can't get to the other side!
    nuggets likes this.
  9. nuggets

    nuggets It's all my fault...

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    I used those because I am not very good with the framing hammer. If I tried to drive nails in at an angle, I would not be able to position the wood precisely. It sure did make it easier.
  10. X5-

    X5- Been here awhile

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    Jul 14, 2013
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    South Dakota
    Put up some trim/decoration boards for my sister. Took me awhile to cut, miter, trim, bevel to her specifications but got it done. Now she has to fill the nail holes and paint!
    F92E8CD3-2357-41C9-A44D-F2BA8A8875F2.jpeg
    nuggets likes this.
  11. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Super Ordinary

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    I've been using my venerable Makita 3.25" planer fairly often. It's probably one of the oldest power tools in my arsenal, still running strong. It was transformed the day I discovered (25 years ago? :lol3) they made carbide replacement blades. It has one annoyance though, that I wonder if there's a simple fix for: the depth adjustment knob on top front of tool won't stay in place. I'll set it and I have to keep one finger on the knob as I plane, otherwise it will loosen up until the blades are above the base.

    I'm hoping someone here has a fix for the old workhorse...
  12. jar944

    jar944 Long timer

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    Warrenton
    Finally got this media center for a home theater sprayed and installed.
    20191027_161746.jpg
    20191027_131817.jpg
  13. X5-

    X5- Been here awhile

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    finished product!
    CB1D09F8-AD80-44DA-AC67-46254113BF17.jpeg
    thebigman, Cycle61, CA_Strom and 2 others like this.
  14. MrBob

    MrBob In the Pines. Supporter

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    The Ticking Stick. I had no idea this thing existed. You can fast forward through parts of the vid, but it's worth watching.
    md9nyc, GutsyGibbon, stormdog and 8 others like this.
  15. CA_Strom

    CA_Strom Cunning Linguist Supporter

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    Wow, filed under "learn something new everyday"! Never heard of this and I've tried all the other methods of scribing, measuring etc... Great video. Thanks!
    SafetyThird and yokesman like this.
  16. MrBob

    MrBob In the Pines. Supporter

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    I need to work with this to fully get my head around it, but what a time saver. There are a ton of Youtubes demonstrating this technique on everything from doors to boats.
  17. Camarodude

    Camarodude Been here awhile

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    When doing exterior trim around vinyl windows, does anyone gap the trim away from the window? If so, how much?
  18. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Super Ordinary

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    Yes. Generally around 1/8" to allow for a strong caulk bead. There's going to be movement between those two materials, you want a good quality caulk in there to seal out weather and be able to expand/contract enough to stay sealed.
  19. Camarodude

    Camarodude Been here awhile

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    ok, thanks HWD.
  20. Camarodude

    Camarodude Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2013
    Oddometer:
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    Oregon
    Another question...:)

    I'm replacing vinyl siding with Hardie lap siding. I want to add another light fixture. Do i install a new electrical box flush with the plywood sheathing, or flush with the face of the wood trim block?