CB1100F - long time coming...

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by shinyribs, Jun 17, 2018.

  1. shinyribs

    shinyribs doesn't care

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    I bought this bike 4 years ago. Titled, 90% complete, but not running. Directly after buying this thing the family business had a rough couple of years and I got married and moved to a new house. I've been busy. Finally off the back burner, I drug the Mighty 1100 over to my new shop this afternoon.

    The day I brought it home. Not a bad starting point, and the Yoshi exhaust is old school cool. I have no idea what the shocks are off of, but the wiring harness is completely untouched. That's a big plus in my book. I have ran a compression test and took a look under the valve cover and all seems well.
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    This morning I picked up the bodywork that a buddy painted for me ( talk about getting the cart before the horse), so I hung it on the bike for some motivation.

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    I've got some parts to choose from, but not entirely sure what direction I'm taking the bike yet. F2 arm and skinny 3 spokes with twin shocks? CBR600 arm with gorgeous 6 spokes and go monoshock? Custom yokes to utilize the ridiculously short GSXR shocks? I dunno...

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    I do know this. A buddy whipped up this photoshop of what I could have if I ever get cracking. :raabia


    cb11f_b4c2.jpg

    cb11f_b4.jpg

    I currently have a XL500S project that I'm focusing my attention on, but I'll be squeezing in some busywork on this bike when things on the XL project are stalled. In the meantime, anyone know of any modern forks that actually have some length to them??? I hear Yamaha forks are typically pretty long...
    #1
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  2. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer

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    Conventional R6 forks, 43mm, fully adjustable, upgrade with an fazer 1000 progressive spring, 750mm centre axle to top. Excellent fork, easy to find and cheap.
    #2
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  3. shinyribs

    shinyribs doesn't care

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    That's awesome info. Thank you!
    #3
  4. shinyribs

    shinyribs doesn't care

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    Decided to lighten up this thing this afternoon. Rigged up some straps to get the engine out. Stuff like this makes you really miss the little thumpers.

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    Rigged up a little trolley for the lump. With wheels. Stupid things weighs as much as I do. No joke.

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    CBR600RR arm is way too long. Over 3" is too much IMO.

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    F2 arm isn't bad, though. Only 1" longer if you run the axle all the way forward.

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    Decided to mock it and have a look. That white rim... :rock:

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    Surprised that the front fender doesn't look terrible over a 17. I really dig the style of the stock front fender. Might try to pull this off.

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    That bigass tail floating free in the air makes me wanna try to monoshock this thing for sure now. I need to research F2/F3 bikes and see what the setup looks like. If I have to ditch the stock battery box I'm not sure where else I can mount one, but I am planning to dump the stock air box and run CR's with pods.

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    The F2 arm is stupid easy to fit. Pivot pin is the same and the F2 arm is much narrower. Spin up two spacers and done. Not much of a visual difference compared to the stock arm, but it is obviously built stronger. Some square tube bracing would put it over the top IMO.
    #4
  5. mike

    mike Long timer

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    Nice - always liked those bikes
    #5
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  6. Fubars

    Fubars What would Scoobydo?

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    Had an 1100F when they came out. Local dealer was selling them cheaper than the 750 Interceptors that came out that year, so for me it was a no brainer. The 6-spoke wheels look good already. I'd clean up the Yoshimura pipe and call it good. And besides, they didn't do undertail cans back then. Works shocks would keep it retro and save some fab time.
    #6
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  7. shinyribs

    shinyribs doesn't care

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    I have a nice set of stock 4-2 pipes here I may use on this bike. I don't think undertail would like right on this bike, I just like seeing that big tail floating. The mono shock thing is up in the air for now. I'm not opposed to twin shocks, but I can go mono for much less money and most likely end up with a nicer suspension. I have a F3 rear shock and linkage on the way to see if it's even viable or not. I'm not building this to be a resto or a track bike, it's gonna be my sport tourer. Long distance highway bike with plenty of power/brakes and can easily haul some luggage.
    #7
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  8. shinyribs

    shinyribs doesn't care

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    Decided to reuse the stock yokes vs swapping on the F3 yokes. Lose too much offset with the F3's and there's a TON of stuff mounted to these yokes to hold up the fairing.

    Got my yokes back from my buddy that bored them for the F3 forks. Plenty of material to work with.

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    Turned up some new axle spacers to make up for the wider fork spacing of the stock yokes.

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    A thin 8mm washer is all that's need to space the calipers out far enough to prevent dragging, but it's a little on the close side.Need to pickup a little thicker washers. Not worth trying to turn these little fiddly things up.

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    I have two F3 arms with two different knuckles. I don't know which one is stock, but I'm guessing the gold chromate one is aftermarket due to the finish. Need to figure this out if anyone has a known stock knuckle to measure.

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    Stuck the bottom end in the frame and have plenty of clearance around the pivot.

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    Need to determine the exact angle the F3 shock should lay on, but there's tons of space to adjust this thing around.

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    Frame isn't very far away from the dogbone, so that mount that should be easy to sort out.

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    Stock battery box won't go back in, but there's plenty of space to mount everything behind the side panels still.

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    Not a very accurate mockup with a 630 front sprocket and a 43T out back, but chaindrag doesn't look horrible. Pretty sure I was running a 46T or 48T on my '80. I don't think this will be a problem. The arm will flatten some when I'm seated and OEM's put sliders on arms for a reason. My stock FZ has more angle than this.

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    Lowest part of the frame rails area at 9.25" and the lowest point of the sump is at 7". That's one inch taller than my FZ (6" to the sump drain/pipes), so I'm cool with these numbers.

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    33" seat height to the lowest section. Not really a fan of the swayback seats, so that will go up some when I get replacement foam. Stance looks good on this mockup and the fork angle is sharpened up a bit at 26 degrees. I think everything is gonna work out just fine [​IMG]

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    #8
  9. Fubars

    Fubars What would Scoobydo?

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    Just a top end job on the motor?
    #9
  10. shinyribs

    shinyribs doesn't care

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    Nah, I'll have to split the cases to replace the crank seals, I just didn't want the engine scattered in to bits just yet. Stripped down just enough to make it more manageable while sorting out chain run, rear sets,etc...
    #10
  11. fireflyr

    fireflyr Been here awhile

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    Cool build. Had a 750 Super Sport back in the early 80's. Bassani (SP?) pipe, red frame, Vesco Rapid Transit fairing........ Still miss the original Super Bikes. Subscribed.
    #11
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  12. mach1mustang351

    mach1mustang351 Long timer

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    I'm gonna subscribe, but I'm conflicted.., this is one of my favorite Japanese muscle bikes as is... So I like stock... But I like your approach... Stop messing with my head!!
    #12
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  13. MATTY

    MATTY BORDER RAIDER

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    like the fact your keeping the original styling up to a point yet putting your stamp on it with the modifications and as a result firmly making it your own unique bike. I am in like it !:brow
    #13
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  14. shinyribs

    shinyribs doesn't care

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    I'm a huge CB fan myself and have been sitting on this build for 4 years. I was conflicted at first, but I'm committed at this point. :D I think the modern shock out back can transform this vintage bike in to a legit daily bike. I'm not usually one to cut up old machines, but nothing I'm going to do will be irreversible. To create a mount for the dogbone link to attach to I'll be adding another tube for an anchor point, then I'll have to add a couple small hoops to locate the upper shock mount. Everything will be welded to the frame, obviously, but nothing it's getting removed from the frame. I might remove the center stand mounts since they are all hammered over (visible in the pics), but I don't know. These bikes were always bad about dragging center stands in corners anyway. Doubt I'd ever run one.


    I will have to trim the rear splash shield to fit around the mono shock and the battery box will be rebuilt with a homemade setup, but it'll all hide behind the side panels/splash shield. Should give a nice clean finish. The absence of twin shocks will leave some unused cutouts on the side panels, but those can be filled without destroying the panels. These panels were 750 items anyway, so it's not like I'm killing an original survivor.

    Modifications can be done without molestation.
    #14
  15. MATTY

    MATTY BORDER RAIDER

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    Good stuff enjoy watching these threads develop i so want to do more on my own bikes but recently my life is that complicated with basic day to day life totally sapping my free time, i am beginning to wonder if i will ever get any free time again it is one thing after another with no let up or so it seems. Watching these threads is interesting and keeps my spirits up just dropping n for a look of an evening.
    #15
  16. shinyribs

    shinyribs doesn't care

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    I didn't see your post earlier.

    I know how you feel. I get frazzled at times and it can be really frustrating. If I didn't get to spend some time in the shop and build something occasionally I would lose my mind. Just pick up something small and simple like an old dirtbike or a simple single cylinder and just piddle when you can. You'd be surprised what can be built without buying expensive parts.
    #16
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  17. MATTY

    MATTY BORDER RAIDER

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    I am ok for project bikes, its time i am struggling with the most, kids universities and money my big problems at the moment nobody told me it would get this expensive so sudden. :lol3
    Your right about dirt bikes though i manage to keep getting bits and pieces done on my trials bikes but my main road projects a Kawasaki bobber and a triumph 900 street fighter will have to wait their turn im afraid, but back on topic your making progress and its looking good.
    #17
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  18. shinyribs

    shinyribs doesn't care

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    Digging back on this for a bit.

    Turned up a couple spacers to fit the swingarm. I wanted to see if it was possible to leave the F3 rear wheel and swingarm attached with stock wheel spacers, so I ignored chain run and just shot for centering the wheel. Luckily enough, it required a 0.245" spacer on each side. Didn't expect that.


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    With the arm and wheel situated I looked at chain run and it wasn't far off.


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    Good ol' factory offset on the rear sprocket was enough to do the trick. Couldn't be any easier and I don't have to modify any OEM parts. Makes replacing parts in the future easier if needed, so I'm very happy.


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    On the money.


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    Turned up a little temporary spacer so I could clamp the knuckle in position solid. Helps hold everything stationary while I sort out all the angles and mounting points. Visible on the left side. Beats the hell outta duct tape :lol3


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    Got the knuckle angle set and pinched down, then adjusted the shock angle. It's sits out past the frame a touch, but not too bad. I'd like for it to set back further to hide behind the side covers, but I don't think this small amount will be an eyesore.


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    Took a few minutes to look at mounting the electrics above the shock and I think it'll be fine. Really only a reg/rec, turn signal flasher and a battery going in there. I'll need to sort out some sort of undertray, but that can wait. Got material on hand to build the suspension mounts. Gotta brush up on my toob notching skills.

    Wiring the bike was gonna be dead simple since I was gonna reuse the stock clocks, but they are in worse shape than I remember. The hole in the back can be sealed easy enough, but I'm not sure about repairing that screen. It's not just a flat plate, it's a formed piece the wraps all the way back to the base of the dash. Bummer. The gauges underneath are pristine. Not a bit of fading at all.


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    Current tally on this build is about $650
    #18
  19. shinyribs

    shinyribs doesn't care

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    Spent way too long notching a tube for the upper shock mount, but I did manage to get it done in one attempt. Made up the tab mounts and turned up a couple spacers to give clearance to the shock body. Not sure how I feel about using a longer bolt now, but this keeps the tab shorter and tucked away better. When everything's done I'll go back and shave 5 thou off each spacer to they won't be wedged in there.


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    Started cleaning up this disaster zone. I don't know what happens to these old CB's but the centerstand mounts are almost always mangled.


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    Wasn't sure exactly what I was working with on this crossmember, so I popped a hole to check wall thickness. The tubing itself is actually plenty heavy, it's just the shitty attachment points to the main hoop that worry me. I can fix that.


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    Double checked all my measurements, whipped up some tab mounts for the dogbone and tacked them on.


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    With everything tacked in place I slid the spring off the shock to check clearances throughout the wheel travel. Everything looks good.

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    Overall wheel travel showed 4 1/8", or 4.125. Honda says rear wheel travel for a '98 CBR600 F3 is 4.29". I can't compress the bumpstop by hand to achieve full travel, but I'm call this good. IMO, this tells me that I got all the mounting points, linkage angles and ratios correct. Well, I may not be 100% correct, but maybe 98%? Good enough for me.

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    Now just need to go back in and reinforce everything. But I'm calling this F3 conversion a success. [​IMG]


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    Previous tally - $650
    Materials used - leftover roll cage tubing and floor plates - $0
    Current tally- $650
    #19
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  20. shinyribs

    shinyribs doesn't care

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    Sat the bike on it's wheels to double check everything before going any further. Happy with the stance and ground clearance. Nothing's changed since mockup.


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    7" to the sump drain and 9.25" to the frame rails.

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    Rake sharpened up a bit to 900F specs (well, within 0.3 degrees anyway), which the internet says steers a little quicker then the 1100. I'll take their word on that.

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    Bike looks happy on it's sidestand. Pretty sure I'm looking at stock ride height/ ground clearance at this point. This makes me very happy.

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    Wanted to sit on the bike to start figuring out what bars to use and the mockup for some rearsets. Turns out the stock footpeg location feels perfect for me in conjunction with the stock bars off my FZ07. I wanted to eliminate the massive aluminum slabs that are the stock foot controls, but I'm leaning towards keeping them now. The more I look at them the more I like them. I want to keep passenger pegs, too.


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    Satisfied that I don't need to rip my work apart on the suspension mounts, I dug in to mounting the electrics. Made up a crude battery box that still needs lots of dressing up, but thing's are looking good. Plenty of room to fit everything behind the side covers.

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    Clutch side. Trimmed the inner fender to clear the F3 stuff and kept the pocket for the breather tank, fortunately. Plenty of room to mount the spark units above the reg/rec and to route the stock wiring harness in to position.

    [​IMG]


    I feel like this breather tank for the crankcase is unnecessarily large, but I'll do some research. Maybe these motors will slobber all over the place with out it. I'm hoping to keep this pocket open for storage. Papers, a few straps and a tire plug kit.

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    Lost the picture of the battery box on the throttle side, but you can see there's good room for a fullsized battery in there behind the sidecover.

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    Same for the other side.

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    Everything's been easier than expected so far. [​IMG]

    Hope to get the battery box finished mounted tomorrow and get the other electrics mounted to it. Then I'll start reinforcing the rear suspension attachments. Since it looks like I won't be spending on rearsets I am considering a Magura Hymec for this bike. I'll wait to see how the engine goes before I blow the budget on that, though.

    Huge oversight on my part: totally ignored the fact that I have no speedo drive with the F3 front wheel. That kinda puts a kink in using the stock clocks.[​IMG]

    Previous tally - $650
    Today's parts - random scrap steel and leftover handlebars- $0
    Current tally - $650
    #20