Changing the front sprocket and chain breakers

Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by Mouse, Jan 23, 2006.

  1. Mouse

    Mouse I'm only smelly

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    I've gone to a 16T front which I'm more than happy with except for the procedure of actually changing it.

    I know some forum members have removed the clutch slave cylinder rather than break the chain as I did. The manual instructs to break the chain and I was lucky enough to have access to someone else's equipment.

    I'd like those who have removed the slave and those who used a chain breaker to share their experience for everyone's reference as my search efforts revealed little.

    Was it a problem? Did you then have to bleed the slave etc? What brand of chain breaker did you use?

    Thanks
    #1
  2. BigMac

    BigMac Been here awhile

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    I'm really not sure what the point of this question is. If you are replacing a counter sprocket, you will also want to replace the chain at same time, unless said chain has VERY few miles, say under 100. Running a used chain on new sprocket(s) is asking for accelerated wear of both items.

    I certainly understand a reluctance to buy a proper chain breaker/rivet setting tool, giving their ridiculous cost, but its a one time purchase for something that should last many years and service many bikes....at least if you buy a decent quality unit such as the Motion Pro unit.

    If for some reason you chose to remove the clutch slave cylinder, regardless of reason, you will need to bleed system. It's a very quick and easy job using a $50 vacuum bleeder. I've switched to ATF (Dexron II type) which offers similar feel and performance to the OEM Magura hydraulic fluid, only its far more readily available in event I had clutch issue away from home, somewhere in nowheresville. Heck, even the local grocery store carries ATF. It's cheaper than the Magura as well. Take care.
    #2
  3. cagiva549

    cagiva549 whats a cagiva

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    I changed to the 16 tooth at 4000 m , I didn't cut the chain or pull the slave cyl. SEYA
    #3
  4. Mouse

    Mouse I'm only smelly

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    cagiva549, if you didn't cut the chain or pull the slave how the heck did you manage to get the 17T out? Everyway I looked at it I couldn't figure out how to clear the slave with the chain on and didn't have enough room to get the chain off, I note my 17T had the rubber damper insitu... did I miss something?


    Bigmac, the point of the question is that if I was swapping sprockets coz they were worn out then the question is superfluous but if I'm changing sprockets to suit riding conditions then its a different kettle of fish however I get your drift and thank you for your reply...

    I also note at ~9k miles my 17T was well worn but the rear is holding up just fine and the chain is ok so I'm not rushing to replace all just cause I want to lower the gearing for a spot of bush work and will most likely interchange the sprockets if I find a simple way to do so.

    Surely its a bit over the top to suggest a chain and rear sprocket change at, for example, 500 miles just cause I wish to change final drive ratios?

    In my searches I've noted people commenting that some have had to bleed the slave and some haven't.

    Do I deduce then that when you've removed the slave you've had to bleed it?
    #4
  5. Noguz

    Noguz Rest in peace, William.

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    I changed the CS sprocket at 7800 miles and just pulled out the slave cyl and then put it back in. Works fine. Chain's doing just fine too.

    Did I do something wrong? I don't think so.
    #5
  6. Pantah

    Pantah Jiggy Dog Fan from Scottsdale Supporter

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    I just changed both sprockets and chain. They were bad shape after 16k miles. I broke the chain and fyi, the replacement chain comes with a rivet link for it's installation.

    Even though the chain is extra heavy (for a 525), my small breaker had it apart in a few twists. But the rivet link requires a chain tool with that capability. Fortunately my son had one in his stuff and I figured out how to use it.

    Lastly, the KTM950 replacement chain was $200!!!!! :hack .It is a nice DID, but I've never paid more then $150 even for one of those hi-zoot gold jobs. :nah .

    Also the rear steel sprocket was about $60. The ones they have in the KTM catalog won't fit the 950. -p
    #6
  7. leadvegas

    leadvegas I want to see your uvula

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    The dealer I use gets their chain through Honda because it's cheaper - I paid $130 for 120 link DID 525 pitch X-ring chain. You'll have to cut a couple of links, but deals can be had if you look around. It was the same price as getting it in bulk, but I didn't have to pay extra for the rivet link.
    #7
  8. ram1000

    ram1000 Long timer

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    You don't need a chain breaker just grind the peened edge off of the link and replace it with a new link.
    #8
  9. Mouse

    Mouse I'm only smelly

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    Boring I know but I was trying to find ways to change the front sprocket rather than a general discussion of chains etc! Anyone who pulled their slave, which bolts did you undo etc? Any photos relating to this thread would be most welcome.
    #9
  10. AntWare

    AntWare Lost In Translation

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    There are 3 bolts on the plastic cover (two on the top and one on the bottom, kinda hidden by the gear shifter) and two on the slave cylinder itself. You don't have to bleed the cylinder and you won't lose any oil by removing it. 30 minute job max.

    Good luck,

    Ant
    #10
  11. Mouse

    Mouse I'm only smelly

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    ok, so why do some need to bleed the slave and some don't? Does not compute. I must be bored today...
    #11
  12. AntWare

    AntWare Lost In Translation

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    Those that know you don't need to bleed the slave are the ones that have taken it off, and those that think you need to bleed it are in the same boat as you, they took one look at it and thought " I just know if I take that off, oil's gonna go everywhere" :wink:

    It's a sealed unit, you'll see when you remove it, when you pull the lever the hydraulic oil pushes a ball bearing, which in turn pushes the clutch rod, no oil leaves or enters the system.

    I have heard rumour that you can damage the casting if you pull the lever repeatedly once the cylinder is removed from the engine casing, I'd imagine because it's not properly supported, but there's some speculation there.
    #12
  13. Motobrandt

    Motobrandt Free Opinions Here

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    Yep what Ant said. I did the same thing putting in a 16t sprocket and the clutch thing is all sealed and designed very well. No bleeding required.:clap
    #13
  14. Mouse

    Mouse I'm only smelly

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    ok, thank you, I then suggest this issue is clearly and authoratively answered - there appears two available methods of changing the front sprocket - break the chain and rejoin or remove the slave cylinder.

    And therefore next time I will take what I see as the easier method and remove the slave!
    #14
  15. dirtyboy

    dirtyboy Adrenaline junkie

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    NOT SO FAST PEOPLE!

    What about the curved metal chain guide (part #: 60030047000)?? Are you guys removing that too? It's kind of a PITA to get to the rear bolt.
    #15
  16. AntWare

    AntWare Lost In Translation

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    Yeah, the rear bolt, that also holds the chain roller, is a bit of a pain, especially trying to get it back on, there's a small serated washer in there as well.

    I'm fairly certain the chain and sprocket can clear it though...but I've been wrong before :wink:
    #16
  17. YOGOI

    YOGOI Prick

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    :rofl sorry, I just had to laugh. You guys are kill'n me.
    #17
  18. urbanoyster

    urbanoyster Been here awhile

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    Hear Hear, that curved chain guide is a right royal PITA to remove! I considered cutting the arm off connecting it to the frame but figured I wouldnt be changing the CS sprocket that often. I found I couldnt get the sprocket off the counter shaft until the guide was removed.
    #18
  19. sven520

    sven520 Adventurer

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    I removed the slave cyl and the curved steel piece, no bleeding no prob.
    #19
  20. AntWare

    AntWare Lost In Translation

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    Haven't you got a flat to fix or something :D
    #20