Chicago to Deadhorse - August 2017

Day 3 (8/4/17) - Denver, CO to Lander, WY - 353 miles

Today was the day it felt like the adventure was really starting to begin. Left Greg's around 9am and traffic around Denver wasn’t too bad. I saw a sign for Waffle House and figured I was in for a treat. Breakfast was exactly as I expected and I was back on the road. When I bought my bike it had K60s on it of an unknown life. This was my first experience with these particular tires and I didn’t know what the wear should look like. I also had some slight cracks starting to show between the tread and tire so figured I would stop to have a knowledgeable second party look at them. I found a dealer in Fort Collins and he said I had probably a thousand miles left on them but he could put a new pair on today. A thousand miles put me into Montana on a Saturday night and I didn’t want find myself in a spot where a dealer would be closed Sunday/Monday so I pulled the trigger and got a new set of shoes. I originally hoped to make it to Yellowstone today but repairs delayed me. Road north from Ft Collins was uneventful but made my first entrance into the mile high club. Southern Wyoming was very windy - had interesting wooden wind block fences across highway to prevent gusts. Much of the ride was very desolate. Gave the impression of being the only person on the road. Arrive in Lander and stayed in the Pronghorn Lodge for a very fair rate and comfortable accommodations. Walked into town for dinner and ate at Cowfish. Very tasty burger, even better beer. Could be a fun town to visit for a day.

Day 4 (8/5/17) - Lander, WY to Bakers Hole, MT - 395 miles

Woke up early, had McDonald's breakfast and made my way toward Yellowstone. Very glad I didn't push it the night before. Stopped in DuBois to check out a mountain biking trail heading up a small hill. This was my first experience with the GSA off road and it handled the fire road without issue. Very excited for what may come off road. Passed through Grand Teton National Park on the way to Yellowstone. Had a delicious burger on the patio at the Blue Herron Lounge at the Jackson Lake Lodge. The views approaching Yellowstone have been the most impressive of the trip so far. Yellowstone was very crowded but worth the trip. Took Grand Loop Rd through the park and saw the Canyon - very impressive. Saw Bison crossing the road and on a large plain. Old Faithful was impressive, Grand Prismatic wasn't. All campsites were full so left the park via the West Entrance and camped in Bakers Hole campground in the national forest just outside the park. All sites were full but a kind man from Seattle named Sly allowed me to share his. Throughout the planing stages and even over these first four days I was having internal debates about where I wanted this trip to take me. I had only four weeks to work with needed to decide if I would rather cover more miles or see more of where I passed by. Ultimately I decided I would be less likely to find myself in Alaska with a motorcycle and a shot at the haul road so I made the decision to forego as much sightseeing along the way with the hope of having more time in Alaska. It wasn’t an easy decision to skip a lot of Yellowstone but justified it with the idea that it wouldn’t be that hard to find my way back for a dedicated trip to explore.

I'm going to hit you up over the summer. I'm in Chicago as well (north center) and I'm headed down to Chetumal and back. Maybe we can go on a ride to Galena or something!

Lurk...love this start.


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Day 5 (8/6/17) - Yellowstone to Glacier National Park - 450 miles

Awoke today to temperatures in the mid 40s. I had a lightweight sleeping back with me and this was pushing it's limit but I made it through the night without issue. This was the first time I had my camping gear out in the wild in probably 15 years so it was good to know I hadn't lost any of the skills I acquired in the Boy Scouts. I hit the road around 8:45 while temperatures were still in the mid 50s. Tires don't inspire full confidence but bike handled well. Moved north through MT and stopped in Ennius for gas and breakfast. This was a quaint little fly fishing town that I think could be a lot of fun to spend a week in. While at breakfast I charted course to western entrance of Glacier with a fair stretch on the interstate and the working my way up along the eastern shore of Flathead Lake. The roads were less impressive than they had been through WY but still an enjoyable ride. Arrived at the western entrance of Glacier to find all campsites full. The ranger said there were Forest Service campgrounds in Flathead National Forest so I backtracked for five or 10 miles and looked for signs. Explored dirt roads in the forest to test bikes capabilities. Took it easy as to not push things too far without fully knowing the bike but it feels very capable so far. Set up camp and walked to Hungry Horse Reservoir to swim/bath. Water was gorgeous and three or four other people were swimming. There is an EXTEME fire warning in effect so no campfire tonight. On the way up I passed a couple firefighter camps and could see smoke not too far off. Noticed that several people had orange above ground pools in their yards and then realized they were feeding the sprinklers keeping the houses and yards wet. Spent the night sitting along the reservoir watching the moonrise and stars come out. The roads have been gorgeous and the population has become less and less dense but today is when the adventure feels like it truly starting to begin.

Day 6 (8/7/17) - Hungry Horse Reservoir to Banff, AB - 357 miles

Woke up to temperates in the mid 40s and broke camp. Gear was dry and packed up easily. Rode to Glacier National Park and had breakfast just outside the gate. Had huckleberry pancakes which tasted a lot like blueberries. Had the first drop of the trip - I'd like to think a magnetic pulse retracted the side stand but in my early morning fuzziness I likely forgot to but it down as I dismounted. The bike was heavy but I was able to lift it without strain - I actually felt pretty good figuring this out while I was still surrounded by people rather than in the more remote spots ahead. I entered Glacier from the went and drove Going-to-the-Sun Road. About half way in I took a detour on a fire road around Lake McDonald. Felt impressed with the GSA's off-road prowess until I saw I Prius parked near the end of the road. Continued following the highway and took a break to hike Trail of the Cedars. Highway climbed through the mountains and I was not a fan of slow, narrow roads with steep cliffs. Exited the park and continued to the boarder. I encountered a very persistent Canadian customs agent that was very adamant I had a firearm in my possession. After a couple minutes of back and forth about why I was lying to him about not having a gun he ultimately let me pass - hopefully he's not thinking somebody would be foolish to ride solo in Alaska without one. Roads into Banff were very scenic but posted speed limits were lower than similar roads in US. Caught some rain for the hour leading into Banff so decided to find a hotel rather than camp. Checked into Bow Valley Lodge - hotel was dated but adequate although the wifi did not work well. Had dinner and a couple beers at Banff Ave Brewing and called it a night.

Day 7 (8/8/18) - Banff, AB to Dawson Creek, BC - 504 miles

Started the day around 9:30 am. Noticed the oil was getting a bit low so looked for local options. I checked out the local gas stations and they didn't have any in the right correct weight but bet a Buell rider from Vancouver at the gas station and he pointed me to some options. The local Harley apparel shop at a liter of synthetic 20w50 that I used to top up 300 ml. Started off on the Trans Canada Highway and made the first scenic stop at Lake Louise. All parking lots were full and I would need to park at an auxiliary lot 10 km away and take a free shuttle bus. I wasn't in the mood for that much of a detour so I opted for the paid parkade at the Fairmont which would be comped if I stayed for lunch. Had a delicious prime rib sandwich at the on the patio the Alpine Social restaurant and enjoyed a view of the lake and glacier - although they parked me in a corner on account of my riding gear (so much for my expensive designer suit (Klim) and Italian boots (Sidi)). From Lake Louise I continued on to the Icefields Parkway which had beautiful mountain and glacial vistas around every turn. The road was twisty and well maintained. Slower traffic was prevalent but frequent passing lanes were provided. Made much slower progress than anticipated on account of the scenic opportunities and photo taking. Stopped to hike the Athabasca Glacier. After leaving Banff and Jasper the region turned to pine and birch forests. Had my first encounter for the RCMP while doing 126 km/h in a 100 zone. He let off with a warning on account of ignorance of the metric system. Passed through Grand Prairie which resembled midwestern farmlands. Stopped in Dawson Creek for the night and hotels were hard to come by on account of oil workers but found adequate lodging at the Traveloge.

. . . waiting for more, please.

Day 8 - (8/9/17) - Dawson Creek, BC to Toad River, BC - 399 miles

Start of the Alaska Highway and had the obligatory picture taken by a kid playing Pokémon Go. The first 325 miles were uneventful from a terrain perspective. Saw six bears - one just hit by a truck, a mother and 3 cubs, and a single crossing the street. The first 200 miles were marked by frequent logging and gas traffic. Road opened up for last 75 miles as I entered the mountains. Spent the night at Toad River Lodge. Had a private cabin and the accommodations were enjoyable. Had dinner at the Toad River Lodge and I'm still not sure what riblets are but I probably would order something different next time.

Day 9 (8/10/17) - Toad River, BC to Whitehorse, YT - 474 miles

Continued along the Alcan. Muncho Lake was gorgeous - if taking the trip again I would adjust plans in order to camp here - road was also well maintained and twisty. Also saw copious wildlife today - moose, elk, black bear, mountain goats, and bison. Stopped in Watson Lake for lunch and had a half decent French Dip. Stopped to see the sign post forest. Continuing on the weather was great. The steel bridge in Teslin was precarious and I'm not looking forward to the return trip. Grabbed a hotel in Whitehorse - nothing noteworthy.

Day 10 (8/11/17) - Whitehorse, YT to Dawson City, YT - 331 miles

Took the Klondike Highway to Dawson City. Trip was rather uneventful but did pass a truck with the front end totaled. It hit a moose and a local was field dressing it on the side of the road. Stopped at the Moose Creek Lodge for lunch - had a bacon cheeseburger that was overlooked but apparently that's the only way they're allowed to be cooked in Canada. Spent the night on the town. Had many drinks at Bombay Peggy's, the Dawson Hotel, dinner at Triple J Hotel - delicious club sandwich, and lost some gas money at the blackjack table at Diamond Tooth Gerties'. Stayed the night at The Bunkhouse which was essentially a closet with a bed and shared bathroom. The accommodations were spartan but a very good value play. Met two miners at Bombay Peggy's and learned these guys can spin a story.

Day 11 (8/12/17) - Dawson City, YT to Fairbanks, AK - 386 miles

Started the day by taking the ferry across the Yukon. Took the Top of the World Highway across the AK border. Bike handled excellently on the dirt. Road was largely empty except for the occasional adventure bike and RV. Crossed the AK border and the agent offered to take a picture with the sign and suggested that I speed for the first 13 miles because the road was well paved and twisty. Coming into Tok I encountered some caribou on the road. Followed them for a few hundred years until they ran off into the brush. Saw some people with hovercrafts and made a u-turn to take a picture - dropped the bike in the process. No damage or injury but a reminder of how heavy the bike is. Stopped at Fast Eddy's for lunch in Tok. Had a good prime rib sandwich. Continued on to Fairbanks. Had dinner at McDonald's and picked up some bear spray at Walmart. Stay the the Bridgewater Hotel and called it an early night to rest up for the Dalton.

Interested in you Klim gear. Is that Badland suit? am planning similar trip next spring and getting bike and gear ready to do some test rides this year to verify all gear and bike works for the long haul. Klim is appearing to be my choice, but since we are traveling from similar part of country, would be interested in your assessment of the pro and cons. thanks. good pictures and log of your trip.

Funny, I had the same experience crossing over south of Vancouver back in 2012. After asking me whether I was carrying a firearm about five different ways, he sent me to the inspection lot. An hour later - after they dug through all my gear - they let me pass. Guess they've got a lot of experience with GS riders carrying sidearms...

Anyway - glad you're posting. You've got a good eye for framing the landscape shots.

Day 12 (8/13/17) - Fairbanks, AK to Wiseman, AK - 410 miles

Picking this back up after a little hiatus...

Woke up to forecasts of rain for the day. Left the hotel to find a steady rain. Stopped at McDonald's for breakfast and went to the sporting goods store across the street for long underwear. Rain continued as I drove to the Dalton. Initial impressions of the road were it wasn't as bad as I feared and was able to maintain 45-55 MPH depending on turns and slopes. Joined up with a Super Tenere and F800 riders from Oregon and Texas, respectively, around the Yukon River and continued with them until the Arctic Circle Sign. I continued on to Coldfoot for gas and the best chili I've ever had and left thinking I would head to Wiseman for the night. The weather finally cleared and knowing rain was in the forecast I decided to bypass Wiseman and make a run for the Deadhorse for the night. The temperature started to drop into the low 30's and the ice warning light on my dash came on. By the time I reached Antigun Pass the rain had turned to snow and the puddles on the ground were starting to freeze. Not knowing an exact weather forecast on the other side of the pass or for the coming days I opted to return to Wiseman hopefully find lodging for the night. Tried the Boreal Lodge first but it was sold out so went next store to the Arctic Circle Lodge where I secured a rustic cabin to myself. The day was a bit of a disappointment - the clouds and rain obscured most views and prevented and picture taking and the forecast for the coming days appears to be worse so Deadhorse is looking unlikely. I will check forecasts again in the morning but it looks like a return trip to Fairbanks.

Day 13 - Wiseman, AK to Deadhorse, AK - 230 miles

Awoke to another morning of rain in Wiseman today. The initial inclination was the return to Fairbanks early and avoid the danger of another Deadhorse attempt. I tried justifying this with ideas of redefining goals and that Deadhorse was never the ultimate goal of the trip. I was still undecided but having been to Antigan Pass yesterday at the very least I would need to return to Coldfoot to top off the tank. I told myself I would feel out the day on the way to Coldfoot and make the determination there. I had a massive four egg and sausage omelet and while having my breakfast there was a group of three riders that had come down from Deadhorse the previous night. They said the road was sloppy but not impassable and I saw the group from yesterday setting out for the morning. Additionally there was a father and son from St. Louis attempting the Dalton on their vintage Triumph TR6 sports car so I figured if they could try it tI might as well give it a shot. I sent off a few text messages and headed north. Road conditions were similar to the previous day albeit a bit drier. After the pavement ended I was initially stopped for a large oversized load (50 wheeler!) but made it to the pass without issue. Today there was more accumulated snow and the temperatures were a bit colder than the day before - hit a low of 26* at the top of the pass. Upon reaching the top I paused for a picture and walked a hundred yards to see what the downhill looked like - appeared to be dry so I decided I was doing it. The downhill was slow but not too terrible. I caught the other two riders that had a 30 minute head start by the time we hit the paved section. The first hour had a steady, wet snow and I followed a truck for coverage. Once I passed pump station 3 conditions improved and I was able to maintain a steady 50-65 mph. Being satisfied with my progress I debated saying hi to Deadhorse and turning back for Wiseman this evening. However, once I was 50 miles out from Deadhorse I hit a construction zone and any enjoyment I had been having quickly evaporated. Fortunately a very kind flag woman allowed me to sit in her heated Gator to warm up otherwise I would've been in serious hypothermia danger. The gravel was deep and soft and coupled with 34* temperatures and a driving rain my only focus was getting to Deadhorse alive. I covered the final 50 miles in about two hour and a half and pulled in to the Prudhoe Bay Hotel looking for a room. The hotel required booties over everybody's boots for mud protection which I thought was quite humorous given the amount of mud covering my entire being. I got a single room, cranked the heat to dry my gear, and loaded up on food to fuel myself for the ride home the next day. Surprising good cell coverage allowed me to stream the most recent Game of Thrones on my iPad.

Day 14 - Deadhorse, AK to Fairbanks, AK - 495 miles

The stories of the Dalton varying day by day proved to be true. I was originally scheduled for the Prudhoe Bay tour but after studying weather forecasts via my inReach for various points along the route I decided and 8 am departure would give me the best weather window for a trip south. The first 50 miles were still rough on account of the construction but considerably better with sunlight and the absence of driving rain. After that the road opened up and I was able to cruise steadily at 55 mph until Antigan Pass. At that point some rain drops started to fall but the temperature actually increased to the mid 40s. Six hours after my departure I pulled into Coldfoot for some gas and nourishment. There was a group of three Polish female cyclists that were attempting the Dalton on their bikes. The weather was more than they anticipated so they were looking for a ride south. Much to their delight there was a solo 30 something from Atlanta heading to Deadhorse in his RV and he offered them a ride which they hesitantly accepted. After another burger and fries and bowl of chili I got back on the bike to continue south. The weather cleared while I was having lunch and other than a few periods of light rain I had sunny, 55* weather for the rest of the ride. Having missed much of the scenery on account of fog on the trip north it was very enjoyable seeing the Alaskan landscape for the first time. Conditions were good for most of the southern trip with the exception of some shady sections where mud was still present. Upon returning to Fairbanks I was just about to hit the 6,000 mile point and with 4-5K left before I got home I figured an oil change could be a good idea. I stopped to see a local but he wasn't available that night but suggested I come back the next morning. I made a pit stop for two sessions with the local car wash, found a hotel, ordered a pizza, and called it a night.