Cide1’s Ural + Hack Thread (was Ural 650 Reliability)

Discussion in 'Hacks' started by cide1, Oct 5, 2017.

  1. cide1

    cide1 Been here awhile

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    I’m still thinking Triumph for the sidecar. I think the Triumph has enough brakes to make it safe, where I have my doubts about the Ural.

    I took the Ural tank to a guy today who was doing a bunch of pinstripping work for the VW club I’m in. As he was touching up the pinstriping, I talked to him about the pieces I had, he said he had the facilities to paint and pinstripe the sidecar to match the Triumph.

    Last night I replaced the front wheel bearings with sealed ones, and then I took the front wheel to cycle outfitters this morning to have a new Duro 314 installed.


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  2. cide1

    cide1 Been here awhile

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


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  3. drrider1

    drrider1 just running amuck

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    picture?
    #43
  4. eastbloc

    eastbloc comprador bourgeois

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    The Triumph will make a great tug. Plenty of go and stop for the task at hand.

    Keep the Solo as a Solo. They were a reasonably rare and interesting variant and yours looks in decent shape.
    #44
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  5. SandHog

    SandHog Been here awhile

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    +1 If the Ural has no reverse and no hack lugs, it would be a nice solo bike as is. You should be able to buy or make a subframe for the Triumph.
    #45
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  6. TripleDaddy

    TripleDaddy Hoping my skills exceed my horsepower

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    #46
  7. eastbloc

    eastbloc comprador bourgeois

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    Call Jay at Dauntless and he will sell you exactly what you need. When I set up my R1150GS rig using a Ural chair that’s what I did. I did end up with an extra sidecar frame but the overall cost of the conversion is quite reasonable if you already have a tug and a complete Ural sidecar.
    #47
  8. cide1

    cide1 Been here awhile

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    DMC quoted me $1200 for the needed hardware. I don’t have a good understanding of exactly what I get for that money (does anybody have pictures?), but they assured me it had everything I needed. I’ll have to cut one of the bottom mounts from the sidecar, and weld a new one on. While expensive, I can appreciate the time they put into developing something they won’t sell very many of. It’s very tempting; once I get the Ural back to rolling I’ll make a decision.

    I went out tonight and struggled with throttle cables in the Solo. The barrels on my mikuni cables won’t go through the throttle grip housing (and I need the ferruled end to match the new K68 carbs), and the cables that I bought on eBay have the right ferrules on both ends, but seem about an inch short of what’s needed, so no way to install. Anybody have any pointers on where to get the correct cables to put K68s on a 650?


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  9. cycleman2

    cycleman2 Long timer

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    If you haven't already, check out the Soviet Steeds site, they cover the Ural well and might be able to help you out.
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  10. SandHog

    SandHog Been here awhile

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    #50
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  11. eastbloc

    eastbloc comprador bourgeois

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    In my experience of Ural ownership, you’re best off to learn how to modify cables for your application. In your situation, you can either cut the housing to make the cables longer, or grind down the barrels to fit the throttle housing.

    I’ve done both of those with Mikuni-to-K68 conversions. I wouldn’t count on simply finding the “right” cable.

    Why are you switching to K68’s? I’ve done it to get away from the need for compliance fittings, but ultimately regretted it as all the K68’s I’ve ever had end up with sunk floats after a time.



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  12. cide1

    cide1 Been here awhile

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    I’m doing K68s because I thought they were more tried and tested (that may not be as true as I once thought it was), my Mikuni’s need a full rebuild, and my Mikuni cylinder head to carb flanges were no good and I couldn’t find new ones.


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  13. cide1

    cide1 Been here awhile

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    Before going through front brakes:

    [​IMG]

    These had zero stopping power, which made trailer unloading pretty exciting.


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    #53
  14. cide1

    cide1 Been here awhile

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    After a cleaning and refresh:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


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  15. eastbloc

    eastbloc comprador bourgeois

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    Gene can definitely get you new flanges. They’re the same for Mikuni and Keihin anyway so any dealer can.

    If I was going to de-Nipponize a 650 now I might try K65’s. They’re flat-slide carbs so a little more primitive than K68 but they are all metal and can be had with brass floats. Russian plastic is something to stay away from in my experience.
    #55
  16. TripleDaddy

    TripleDaddy Hoping my skills exceed my horsepower

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    Did you media blast the drum before you installed the new pads? It looks super clean.

    Take a look at the photos of drums in my thread; my gut feel is that you will be disappointed in the drum performance until those pads are worn in, which could take forever without some persuasion from you.
    #56
  17. cide1

    cide1 Been here awhile

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    I used a parts washer, a stiff nylon brush and elbow grease to get them cleaned up.

    I did buy a drum brake measuring caliper that will allow me to measure the diameter of the inside of the drum, and the diameter of the outside of the pads, and get everything tuned up and centered on the hub as best as possible before re-assembly.

    My fear is exactly as you said, on its best day with everything working correctly, this is probably still not going to stop very well. I've ridden a '74 Honda CL360 with mechanical drums front and rear, if I can get this to work as well as that I will be happy.
    #57
  18. cide1

    cide1 Been here awhile

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    I think I found a solution to the Ural vs. Triumph question for my hack. I wasn't loving either option. The Ural doesn't have enough speed / reliability to do what I want, it's pretty cool as just a Solo, and I didn't really want to modify the Triumph that much as I am finally happy with it after changing foot pegs and handlebars.

    I went and looked at a clapped out 1985 BMW K100RS a few weeks back, but the guy was asking $1450, and this bike needed one of everything. Bike has 18k miles on it, and is cosmetically a mess. The fairing has been removed, some other dual headlight thing installed. Looks like the wiring needs some attention. I've been following his ad posting as he dropped the price. Today he dropped the price to $1100, I offered $750 with the stipulation that it be delivered from about 50 miles away (it is 4 degrees outside here). and that it had to have a valid title in sellers name. He wanted the price of trailer rental thrown in, so I offered $780 which he accepted. He plans to drop it off tomorrow. I figure I'll put another $500 in it between fluids, battery, rubber bits, tires, etc. I have $670 and $100 worth of gas in the hack. I spent $100 on getting weld on mounts for the sidecar. I probably have another $200 or so needed in material for fabricating a sub-frame. Hopefully I'll have a BMW K100 w. Ural hack for $2300 to $2500 by the time it's all sorted.
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  19. cide1

    cide1 Been here awhile

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    Pics of the K100RS from the ad, which were taken before it sat outside under a tarp for awhile.
    [​IMG][​IMG]
    #59
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  20. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

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    Out of the frying pan . . .
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