I recently installed a set of Clearwater Erica's on my R1200GSW and wanted to post up an overview of the install. I have a stock LED headlight and opted for the CAN-opener to get full integration with the stock high beam switch and engine-running trigger. I did make a few deviations from the included instructions and will point them out below as I step through the install. This turned into a rather long post so freshen up your coffee and let's get on with it. Note: Edited this post on 4/9/2014 to reflect that the CAN-opener triggers the lights to go to 100% on pressing the high beam switch and/or the horn switch. No additional wiring is required to enable the horn to trigger the lights to go to 100%. Unboxing the kit everything looks well protected, I added the crash bar mounts and light covers to my order and found everything included in one box. Removing the accessories we get to the core of the kit, each light is well protected and surrounded by foam. And finally a shot of everything laid out. The crash bar mounts, black light covers, and CAN-opener were add-ons, everything else is as included in the basic kit. Battery terminals are crimped and soldered, as well Posi-Lock screw together wire connectors are included. I opted to solder the few required connections however I will be adding the included Posi-Locks to my on-bike tool kit. All wires are labeled, a nice touch that makes it much easier to keep track of when trying to decide where to run wires. I first installed the CAN-opener, you do not have to remove anything to install it, I did only to save as much under-seat storage as possible. Here we see the bike's stock wiring, I have tire pressure monitoring so have the module shown mid-picture. To install the CAN-opener you un-plug the plug going into the tire pressure monitor module and plug the CAN-opener inline, completely plug and play. You can see where I mounted the CAN-opener (I saw someone else do this which prompted me to go down this route). It comes with self-stick velcro already applied, just clean the bike's plastic, peel and stick. And a closeup with the wires secured. With the plastics installed it looks stock and you preserve all under seat storage. You can see where I ran the CAN-opener wire on the left side of the bike. I followed stock wiring under the front seat mount and came out just under the gas tank where in a later step the CAN-opener wires connect to the main relay module. Next I installed the adjustment knob, instructions have you mount it with the L bracket flipped forward. Since I was mounting to my barkbusters I found I had clearance to mount this way and set the knob back further. If mounting to the mirror mount you may not have clearance to mount this way. This is another place where I deviated from the instructions. The stock kit comes with a switch you mouth to the bike's plastics. I didn't want to drill into the plastics and wanted easier access. This is a PIAA waterproof switch I mounted with double sided tape. It has a three wire lead and includes a led indicator light (green=off, red=on). It doesn't get in the way and I just need to extend a finger if I need to turn the lights on or off. I've been running them on low all the time so haven't yet had much use to turn them off but if needed I don't have to remove my hand from the bars. And a view of the left grip, I think this makes for a pretty clean install. All wires are zip-tied to the stock control wires. This is a picture during test-fitting. The instructions have you zip-tie the module in the center of the bike behind the forks. I found this void on the left side that seemed to perfectly fit the relay module. The relay module has three small trigger wires, the red and one white wire (either one, doesn't matter) connect to the output wires of the CAN-opener, the second white wire is an optional 12v trigger and should remain unconnected unless you have another 12v source you want to trigger the lights to go high. The other white wire you connect to the CAN-opener is the 12v high beam and horn trigger. I didn't realize this at first but the single white wire coming out of the CAN-opener goes to 12v when the high beam button is pressed and/or when the horn is pressed. The red wire only gets power when the engine is running and it triggers the Clearwater relay. Keep in mind that the red wire only gets voltage when the engine is running, so if the engine isn't running the lights are not powered. I thought there was a problem with my wiring until I realized this. I wanted to add some protection to the trigger wires and had some Cat5 network wire laying around, I ripped out the Cat5, slipped in the three trigger wires and sealed the ends with waterproof shrink tube I picked up at harbor freight on the cheap. Adds protection, looks great and was cheap. Final fitment. I trimmed a plastic tab to the right of the Clearwater relay and used double sided tape to affix the relay to the plastic. If you do the same use high quality double sided tape or velcro, I only had some crap tape and it quickly came off so I need to finish it up with proper tape later. The tape just keeps it from moving around, it is held captive by the inner and outer plastic in addition to wire ties so no fear of it falling off. Re-installing the beak Closeup of the wires running away from the relay module. The green quick disconnect in the middle is the adjustment knob connector, plug and play. From the inside of the fork area looking out you can see where the relay fits. The white (trigger wires) and power wire run under the air intake and to the left side of the bike. The adjustment knob wire and switch wire run up to the left handgrip. The white (trigger wires) and power wires follow the clutch hose. The white housing contains the trigger wires from the main relay and the black housing contains the trigger wires from the CAN-opener. Connect red to red and one white wire to the single white wire from the CAN-opener. I soldered them and covered them in waterproof shrink tube. The wire length was perfect when running wires in the way I did, make sure to test fit everything as some install locations and wire routing didn't leave enough wire. Testing the PIAA switch wiring. I wired black to black and found that it didn't seem to matter which way I wired up the red/white and red/yellow wires. I currently have it wired as pictured and it works. I couldn't find details on how the PIAA switch is supposed to be wired. I passed the power wires from the left side to the right of the bike over the top of the battery. Attached ground directly to the battery post and hot to the aux post to the right of the battery. After zip tying the wires I tucked them above the battery. If I need to check the fuse there is easy access. I'm holding out on craftycoder to release the Motobrain after which I'll work on removing the spiderweb of fuses. This is what the final wire routing looks like with the plastics in place. I'll eventually throw some tape on these wires so it looks cleaner. A top down view showing the final wiring. This shows the main relay mounting location with all plastics in place (and after my crap double sided tap gave out). I mounted the lights to the AltRider upper crash bars using the universal crash bar mounts from Clearwater. I zip tied excess wire above the upper crash bar mount. View of lights from below Right side view Left side view Close up Full on view These lights put out an insane amount of light, as others have said the difference between stock high beam and the Erica's on high is night and day. It is pretty amazing what happens now with the flick of the high beam switch. I'm going to play around with some HD Hero video footage in hopes of trying to capture a comparison. Realizing how pictures/video of lights at night is a tricky business we'll see if I can come up with something and get it posted up here. Overall I am very pleased with my decision to go with these lights. I was on the fence reviewing all the options and eventually made my decision on features over cost. My priorities were as much light as possible for better deer spotting on back roads and second was a clean/integrated install. The CAN-opener and integrated adjustment knob make for a very clean/easy/well integrated install and the light output gives me a substantial increase in visible area at night.