Clutch slave cyclinder replacement R1150RT

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by manfromthestix, Nov 4, 2016.

  1. manfromthestix

    manfromthestix Lost in Space Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2004
    Oddometer:
    4,602
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    Lexington, Virginia
    When the slave was trashed on my 2002 1150RT the clutch never made any noise at all, it just slipped under hard acceleration (engine revved but it wasn't going any faster). I'm with Jim, start with the easy and obvious thing first, a slipping belt. That's an easy check on the GS 'cuz there isn't any damned tupperware to remove. I have Hepko-Becker crash bars on mine that have to be loosened but not fully removed, then it's just removal of the plastic cover. :D If your bike has 80,000+ miles on it that's something you should check anyway. My 2001 1150GS has only 60K on it and still has the original belt (which doesn't squeal and looked fine last time I checked it) but I carry a spare in my kit just in case. The slave cylinder replacement or service really is not a difficult repair on the GS either because access is pretty good, unlike with the RT that was the impetus for this thread. Bleeding the clutch is very quick and easy as well. The last time I had a bike in to the BMW dealer several years ago their shop rate was $79 an hour and I'm sure it's higher now...

    BTW, the RT is purring like a kitten now, no issues with the clutch after I burned off the bit of hydraulic fluid that made it onto the clutch plate. I love my Beemers; they are remarkably reliable even though they're "old". I spend orders of magnitude more time riding than wrenching on those bikes. :ricky
    #21
  2. sykospain

    sykospain Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
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    Location:
    south-eastern Med coast of Spain
    Chris Harris ( almost re-settled by now, currently in Maine but still living in the RV with the brood ) told me the frame cross-bar that obstructs access to the slave cyl attachment bolts can be taken out, after the wheel, seat and shocker have been removed. That shd make things a tad easier to get at.

    As the seats are off, maybe undoing the three air-box fixing bolts - one at the back top edge and the two pesky hard-to-get-at ones each side above the motor's barrels - and maybe also undoing the crankcase fumes vent hose - in order to lift up the air-box a little, would give a bit more clearance on top of the slave.

    Also, I got told a gem of a tip by Steptoe from his garden shed workshop in south-west London, regarding the awkwardness of getting the cylinder out into a more accessible position ready to undo the 2 banjo bolts.

    He says : - Undo the top nut on the left hand fork. Remember there are no springs in a Telelever fork tube, so just slide it down a bit so you can pass the clutch's braided hydraulic fluid line INBOARD of the fork tube, towards the frame.

    This then will give you enough slack in the line to make fiddling with the cylinder down below a whole lot easier.

    What a great tip ! Many thanks Steptoe ! ( Neil Harrison, www.gsshop.biz )

    AL in s.e. Spain - now with my newly imported UK Rockster all set for registering into the Spanish number plate system.
    #22
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  3. manfromthestix

    manfromthestix Lost in Space Supporter

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    Wow, it was interesting to see this thread pop back up after a long hiatus. For the record, the slave cylinder repair has held up just fine and I never did have to replace the clutch plate. Some fluid got onto it but it has burned off over the last ~2 years of riding and there is no slippage. The bike purrs like a kitten.
    #23
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  4. roger 04 rt

    roger 04 rt Long timer

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    Nov 9, 2011
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    Massachusetts
    Lol. It took me 2 1/2 hours spread over two days. Then on the test ride I realized there was still some air in the hydraulic lines, so add another 1/2 hour to bleed it again. To that add a half day to power wash because a quart of grease from my grill got thunder-showered onto my deck because I forgot to close the lid while I worked on the bike. :baldy:baldy
    #24
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  5. patrkbukly

    patrkbukly Life at 10,000 feet

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    Sep 28, 2002
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    2,305
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    Fairplay, CO
    This write up and the chiming in of tips helped me tremendously.
    My 2002 1150RT with 50k now on the clock. I am only doing the slave as preventative from Beamers Boneyard.

    What a son of a gun getting it off, and I trued getting thet supply line with banjo bolt in but called it a night. Will pick up maƱana.
    Good news is...I found one hell of a glob of grease but no fluid so I think I dodged a bullet for 17 years on an OEM slave.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    #25
  6. patrkbukly

    patrkbukly Life at 10,000 feet

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Just to update, new Boneyard slave installed, bike running beautifully but man what a job that is.

    Good feeling to know that wont be an issue anytime soon.

    Thanks again manfromthestix and all other posters on this thread.
    #26
    Billy Budd likes this.