Clutch, transmission problem KTM 990 ADV

Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by breitsmeister, Sep 4, 2019.

  1. breitsmeister

    breitsmeister Adventurer

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    Hi,

    I think you might be right.
    It might be some spilling while bleeding the clutch a couple of months ago..
    I've checked for haircracks on the cylinder slave and the plastic billet, it's in good shape.
    I've bled the hydraulic system now again but no succes.
    The clutch lever pull just feels firm and consistent.
    So, if I think that is all good there might be one thing left, the clutchpack.
    Removed the clutchpack again and I think i'm going to replace the clutchplates + the steel ones.
    They might be warped
    #21
  2. tomdubz

    tomdubz getting there Supporter

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    FWIW I killed a seal in one a couple months ago. Got it on flea bay with a purported 30k miles on it. Put 15k on it myself before it shit the bed. Went back to a used '10 stock unit.

    Occasionally my clutch behaves this way too. I've wondered if it could be the Belleville spring itself, but that's probably just my "throw more parts at it" self speaking.
    #22
  3. breitsmeister

    breitsmeister Adventurer

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    What happens if I remove the belleville spring?
    Is it safe to try?
    Will the clutch shudder alot more?
    #23
  4. DirtyADV

    DirtyADV Long timer

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    Have removed that and spacer and narrower disc on several bikes without any issues.

    Replaced with a normal friction disc.

    /Johan
    #24
  5. breitsmeister

    breitsmeister Adventurer

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    Hi,

    I've removed the belleville spring with washer but no succes, no change in clutch disengage.
    Ordered a new clutch pack with new steel plates and friction plates.
    Think the plates are warped, or the friction plates might be glazed which causes that the friction plates stick on the steel plates even when I pull in the clutch lever.
    Also I don't know if the clutch pack has be een replaced before so it might be a good time to replace them.

    I think these clutches will always be a bit grabby even when everything is in good condition, so we just have to live with it or buy a new ktm. :hmmmmm

    Ill make a report once I get them.
    #25
  6. DirtyADV

    DirtyADV Long timer

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    Any wet clutch will have some drag in it.

    With bike on centerstand and clutch pulled putting it in gear rear wheel will start rotating.

    But you should be able to stop it without to much trouble with your foot if oil is warm.

    Opening up clutch jet will feed more oil help cooling clutch but also cause more drag.

    /Johan
    #26
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  7. breitsmeister

    breitsmeister Adventurer

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    Hi,

    I've finally had some time to change the clutch plates and the steel ones. (also changed the engine oil and filters)
    Soaked them in oil before mounting them.
    Difference in clutch disengagement? No difference.
    Thinking the problem is the hydraulic system, because i've replaced everything else already..
    I might have bought the wrong clutch master cylinder.

    Other story:
    I've also had a nice Superduke 990 but with a radial clutch master cylinder equipped. (PN. 61002030000)
    With Oberon slave cylinder and LHM mineral oil.
    There is a difference in clutch disengagement on both bikes.
    The Superduke had smoother shifting and better clutch disengagement.

    Piston diameter of the Magura Hymec Clutch master cylinder is 10,5mm. (max. stroke 13,8mm) bought this one for my adventure. (original is also 10,5mm)
    Piston diameter of the superduke radial master cylinder is bigger I believe?
    Can someone tell me the piston size?
    I'm just investigating.
    The more amount of oil being pushed by the hydraulic cylinder means a larger distance between the steel plates and friction plates. (more clutch disengagement)

    EDIT:

    I've found an repair kit for the radial one and the piston diameter is 13mm.
    #27
  8. Boatman

    Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-) Supporter

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    I just looked at your video and I really don't see an issue. On the center stand that is completely normal. Its a wet clutch and when the plates are separated there is oil between the plates. Then you drop it in gear, the oil acted as somewhat of a torque converter and the wheel is spun for that instant. The reason it happens more in first and second is because as you get into the higher gears there is more resistance in the gearbox so overtakes the torque converter effect the higher the gear.
    #28
  9. breitsmeister

    breitsmeister Adventurer

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    Oke
    #29
  10. Boatman

    Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-) Supporter

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    I just watched the second video (very slow downloads!). It take it you were trying to show the jump when going into gear. Again this is completely normal. Every LC8 I have owed does the same thing.

    If you were having an issue with the bike wanting creep forward while in gear then you are looking for an issue.
    #30
  11. gefr

    gefr Life is a trip

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    I had a dragging clutch from day 1. At some point I complained to KTM Austria and was diverted to KTM Greece for a clutch replacement.
    Later on, I got some dragging and solved it by replacing the steel plate next to the belleville spring with a formed groove with another one.
    Lately, steel ring replacement didn't seem to work, so I bought a new "thrust washer", the one the belleville spring sits on, #60032035000. That solved my problem for now till it reappears.
    Cheers
    #31
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  12. breitsmeister

    breitsmeister Adventurer

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    Hi,

    What was wrong with the old thrust washer ?
    Was it worn?
    Mine looked fine.

    I think my problem is the clutch master cylinder.
    It doesn't have enough stroke to fully disengage the clutch. Its a magura hymec 167(aftermarket).
    #32
  13. Boatman

    Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-) Supporter

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    I took the time and watched the videos.

    First video. He has the bike on the center stand idling. He pulls in the clutch and puts it in gear. The rear wheel spins about 3/4 of turn and stops on it's own.

    Second video. He's sitting on the idling bike. With the clutch pulled he puts it in gear and the bike jumps a but does not creep forward.

    There is no creep forward in either video, just the intial jump when putting it in gear.

    For an LC8, in my book this is completely normal and he's chasing an issue that doesn't exist.
    #33
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  14. Boatman

    Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-) Supporter

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    Have you measured the disengagement at the pressure plate?
    #34
  15. breitsmeister

    breitsmeister Adventurer

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    Hi,

    No I didn't measure, I don't have a micrometer with magnet.
    But thats a good idea, maybe I can borrow it from someone.
    #35
  16. breitsmeister

    breitsmeister Adventurer

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    Hi, pressure plate distance is 1,7mm.
    #36
  17. Boatman

    Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-) Supporter

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    Thats not a problem. I just measured 2 bikes.... an Adventure and a Super Enduro and got the same on both.... .054" which is 1.37mm. Measured both with an indicator at the center of the pushrod and with feeler gauges at the between the pressure plate and the first clutch disc.

    I think you are looking for a problem that doesn't exist and is just a trait of the LC8 and many other bikes with wet clutches. I've owned and wrenched on bikes for 49 years now.
    #37
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