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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Solo Lobo, Feb 28, 2018.
Heat sink paste done... this shot is before I cleaned everything and put it back together
Can the ignition module display an intermittent failure?
any electronic device can go intermittent if it has a heat problem
you didn't have to go that far. Just take the ignition module off.. Usually craps out when hot, comes back when it cools down.
forum screwing up. I was replying to two posts.
I did the re-pasting when I had the bike apart last year, the module literally fell off when the bolts were undone.
I have an NOS module in my part stash, and if the issue repeats itself I will probably toss it on for fun. I need to check the coils as well.
No time for these things until the weekend.
If you have a heat gun you could warm parts individually to see if anything goes open circuit.
That game works a little better the other way. You chill parts individually and see what comes back to life. Chiller spray takes components to sub zero temps. The cans of chiller spray have wands on them like carb cleaner so you can be very precise.
Well, made it to the office today, the RS ran great and had a deeper exhaust note... must be timing that changed the tone.
Since you didn't post anything, we will assume that you didn't find anything; we are awaiting further reports.......
it would be more fun to make some stuff up...
Actually, see my earlier post where I found the screws holding the female wire connections onto the coils were loose and corroded... all four of them with the power supply having the most rust.
To be honeat I wsn't overly impressed with your clean-up job, Any corrosion you leave will breed more. I would have used a dip rather than a brush.
Understood Plaka, the plan is to replace those screws shortly with new... that's why the cleaning wasn't 100%
Ah so. That is the best way because it preserves the plating. Acid dip does not.
OK, where was I??
The RS seems to be working fine, the exhaust note seems deeper and less sharp than before I changed the can. When I get to 500 break in miles, I'll re-check the timing when I change the fluids and filters
Since I found the bearing for the old-style throw-out assembly and want to swap that back in, I figured I would also replace the clutch friction disc (which measured OK, but wasn't as new) but mostly I wanted to change the spring as the best I had was at the bottom end of the allowable range
One more update, you may remember that the frame tabs to retain the left sidecover broke off, oddly enough the sidecover had the perfect hole to retain the cover with a zip tie
Just discovered that this weekend
Somebody already drilled the hole for the cable tie.
Well, when it rains it pours.... (see my R65LS thread as well to see what I did there)... brake felt a bit squishy on the way home yesterday...
That upper line put up a real fight when I removed the old lower line, and I am not really surprised there is an issue... need to find a replacement fast as the LS also suffered a brake fluid leak yesterday
Part in hand
Something like this
Once that was installed, I went to test-fit the most seriously cool tank cover I think I have ever seen
Figured there would be a problem
Too small an opening for the gas cap. Might have this modded a bit to work
Using the hold-the-lever-down-with-a-zip-tie bleeding method now, after pumping out lots of bubbles and will ride to work tomorrow.
The LS parts arrive late next week I think...
Actually, Tuesday is what I was told.....