CRF230L Owners Check In

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by racknack83, Jan 19, 2009.

  1. SR56

    SR56 Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2013
    Oddometer:
    4,470
    Location:
    NW Florida
    Risers....you can get away with 30 mm risers without having to change any cables. Any higher and you may have problems. Rocky Mt ATV sells a set of Tusk brand 30mm risers that I run for $21.

    You can get extended cables made and there are conversions to move the choke off the handlebar to the carb but I have never seen either for the 230L/M....but anything is possible given enough time and money :-).

    Motion Pro is one option for custom cables:

    https://www.motionpro.com/c/custom-cables
  2. JamesHTrotter

    JamesHTrotter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2017
    Oddometer:
    217
    Location:
    New York
    17k miles on the mighty 230L! time for new brake pads. What are you running? Stick with the OEM pads? CRF's only has a few options. I don't ride hard, also want to be nice to the rotors.
    Much love!
    Bitingdog likes this.
  3. Bitingdog

    Bitingdog That's not my dog

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2015
    Oddometer:
    18,082
    Location:
    The bad side of the PNW
    I put on some cheapies from Gnarly Parts. Works fine. Old pads were still 60%, but I accidentally fouled them with chain lube (d'oh) and couldn't revive them with emory cloth
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  4. SR56

    SR56 Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2013
    Oddometer:
    4,470
    Location:
    NW Florida
    Yea, I'd go with OEM Honda pads...they seem to last as good if not better than anything else. Check prices but Rocky Mt ATV usually has the lowest prices and they'll price match if they don't.

    Glad you are aware that being nice to the rotors is a concern because you could go with more aggressive pads and get better braking but you'd pay the price with more rotor wear.

    Don't forget to check your rotor thickness and make sure they are not getting too thin :-).

    Hard to believe I know but I am down to one 230L....a friend's son borrowed my second 230L and crashed it bending the frame so I sold it to him at a ridiculously low price and I ended up selling my 230M :(.
  5. JamesHTrotter

    JamesHTrotter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2017
    Oddometer:
    217
    Location:
    New York
    @SR56 Any thoughts on rotors? I need to replace the front. OEM is $207 on Babbits, $159 on RM.
  6. Bitingdog

    Bitingdog That's not my dog

    Joined:
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    :(

    As long as you still have one, I guess that's okay.

    OEM is best, but our local friendly parts store only had cheapies and big dollar, high-end EBC's in stock that were about $70.

    Wife had a dirt lesson the next morning, figured working brakes might help. But she still hit a log fence, twice
  7. SR56

    SR56 Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2013
    Oddometer:
    4,470
    Location:
    NW Florida
    EBay maybe....might be able to find a complete wheel cheaper than a new rotor. Partzilla.com shows the applicability for parts so you might be able to find the same rotor off of a different bike for less money: https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/45351-KV6-670?ref=c44e11b0246ad5f43a9ac12d444ba78b3d501c2a

    $70 ouch. Yea you have to watch those stationary objects like fences and trees, they jump out in front of me too....hope the wife is OK and as long as she ended the day with a smile, nothing else matters :-).
    Bitingdog likes this.
  8. Oleseahorse

    Oleseahorse Formerly Oleseahorse, presently Mr. P

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2020
    Oddometer:
    30
    Location:
    South Jersey
    Been having some trouble starting the bike. At home I took it on the street and bump started it.
    After a spill however on a sandy trail I had a heck of a time bump starting it until I found a patch of firm ground which took all my energy.

    Part of the problem is the darn headlight. If I could switch that light off I think even a dismal battery like what I have would be sufficient to start the bike. Of course a new battery is needed but has anyone switched off the headlight for starting?
  9. Oleseahorse

    Oleseahorse Formerly Oleseahorse, presently Mr. P

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2020
    Oddometer:
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    Which brings me to my next question. Recommended battery for the bike?
  10. jsonder

    jsonder Tired Old Fart

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    940
    Location:
    Green Valley, AZ
    Bitingdog likes this.
  11. Bitingdog

    Bitingdog That's not my dog

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2015
    Oddometer:
    18,082
    Location:
    The bad side of the PNW
    Headlight will basically turn off when you're cranking the engine. It has a relay for this. It's pretty much de rigueur for street legal bikes
  12. Bitingdog

    Bitingdog That's not my dog

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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
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    I wish... she's still mad at me for that and a million other things that I do. But her little sister enjoys the bike (I think I'd enjoy the sister tew)
  13. SR56

    SR56 Long timer

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    Batteries...I use batteries from Chromebattery.com in all my bikes.

    I use an AGM battery from them and they have lasted as long or longer than the Yuasa batteries I have and cost a lot less.

    They deliver in two days or less and have the best prices I have found.
    Bitingdog likes this.
  14. JamesHTrotter

    JamesHTrotter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2017
    Oddometer:
    217
    Location:
    New York
    Okay, anyone chime in on this one please. I have the CRF tuned for New York. For me this was the Moose needle and a Keihin jet size 120.
    Last time I was in Utah I had to revert back to stock (which was just one Keihin down). I am in Utah again, and I feel it when in 6th gear—the bike crawls to get beyond 55mph. I’d like to lean it out just enough, but don’t feel like rejetting.
    I am thinking about finally coughing up the cash for the FMF PowerCore slip on, anyone know if this would lean it out just enough? Or would it be unnoticeable and I just put the stock jet back in?
    Any thoughts would be great!
  15. mickdee

    mickdee Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2012
    Oddometer:
    117
    Location:
    Central Indiana
    I'll chime in....I've tuned a few bikes so hopefully I'm not wrong here. I think your concept is valid (free flowing exhaust should want a bigger jet / more fuel), so going with a free flow pipe and not jetting, but going up in elevation would mask the need for a bigger jet, yes. But is it the RIGHT amount of change in what it would want, I think that would just be a guess. Also, this only helps you if you plan to either re-jet the bike for the new exhaust once you get home from the Utah trip, or remove the new system and go back to stock. So regardless, you need to play with jets at some point. Other's may chime in saying you could tweak the mixture screw, which is valid to some merit but I'd personally say it's not the best way to go about it. Also, some may say spend the money instead (or also) on an Electron carb, especially if you don't really need more power, and want the bike to work at multiple elevations without adjustments. This may be valid, I don't have any personal experience but I hear good hype about them. Personally, I haven't yet studied HOW an Electron works, and that's the convincing I would need before buying one. I trust theory and the mechanics of things, not just internet chatter, b/c everyone loves to say how great their new thing is, especially after paying hundreds or thousands of dollars for it.....carbs, seats, bikes, etc. Good luck!
  16. JamesHTrotter

    JamesHTrotter Been here awhile

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    Location:
    New York
    Thanks! I did just do the right thing and rejet it. It’s back to 75/80mpg. And if/when the time comes, I’ll rejet it again back at sea level.
    I really appreciate your thoughtful and thorough reply. At the end of the day, you’re right. It takes no time at all to throw a smaller main jet in there. AC69A0D5-A228-4695-8B2B-D93F05255EBE.jpeg
    Bitingdog and ksucoach83 like this.
  17. JamesHTrotter

    JamesHTrotter Been here awhile

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    Dec 31, 2017
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    New York
    0EBEF638-9669-45FE-B667-B2E62B37E1F8.jpeg Forgive the cardboard box, I was on the way to the grocery store. Tried to go via BLM trails, but doubled back to the pavement.
    best bike there is!

    Attached Files:

    Bitingdog, ProLeisure and Oleseahorse like this.
  18. Oleseahorse

    Oleseahorse Formerly Oleseahorse, presently Mr. P

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2020
    Oddometer:
    30
    Location:
    South Jersey
    Looks like nice terrain James. I've never been in your area and it looks inviting.
    Today's request is asking how to best wire usb outlets. I found a nice one that includes a voltmeter.
    The second request involves what type and how to best mount a phone holder on the handlebars.

    Attached Files:

  19. JamesHTrotter

    JamesHTrotter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2017
    Oddometer:
    217
    Location:
    New York
    I recently did just that. I run a an LED light through USB mounted to the speedo. Sun just went down here, so tomorrow during the day I’ll take a few pictures of what I did.
    The bike makes plenty of juice for me to run the LED lights, haven’t checked the volto while charging the phone.
    I’ll put together a post tomorrow evening.
    If you are ever in Southern Utah, give a shout! I’m more of a light trails rider, so if that’s your thing, I’d be happy to take you around some of my favorite spots. Discovering more each day, although the CRF could use a fork oil change soon.
  20. SR56

    SR56 Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2013
    Oddometer:
    4,470
    Location:
    NW Florida
    On the USB...just hook a battery tender lead that matches the opposite end of the wire from your USB to the battery...then you can run the USB, hook up a tender, or an electric vest to keep you warm, etc.

    Make sure you don't exceed the capacity of your electrical system...I installed LED blinkers and an LED headlight bulb to drop the load :-). I really like this bulb: http://stores.advmonster.com/h4-r4-led-headlight/