CRF230L Owners Check In

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by racknack83, Jan 19, 2009.

  1. SilverFerret

    SilverFerret Motor Psycho

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2016
    Oddometer:
    192
    Location:
    Iowa
    I'm thinking about getting a 2010 CRF 230L. How is it on the highway for 1-2 hours? What is your highest sustained speed?
  2. SR56

    SR56 Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2013
    Oddometer:
    6,523
    Location:
    NW Florida
    The CRF230L was only sold in the USA as a 2008 and 2009 model.

    If everything is set up correctly, the bike will run about 72-73 on flat ground. I think it is pretty comfortable and a couple hours on the highway would be OK although it is probably not a good idea to be on the interstate doing 72-73 mph these days :D.
  3. SilverFerret

    SilverFerret Motor Psycho

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2016
    Oddometer:
    192
    Location:
    Iowa
    After 2009 they just sold the 250L?
  4. SR56

    SR56 Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2013
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    Correct :thumb.
  5. dankatz

    dankatz Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    611
    Location:
    Boston, MA
    Yeah, I agree. To be honest, it’s good for 1-2 hrs at 65 mph and top out at 73 mph or so. I would not want to take it on the interstate for more than an hour without a break.
    The crf250l is very different. I have both. It is heavier, taller, smoother and more powerful. It is comfortable on the interstate at 72 mph. I topped out at 89 mph with my mods on it (ejk, pipe, header, airbox)
  6. Casey2500

    Casey2500 n00b

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2021
    Oddometer:
    4
    Location:
    Florida
    Does anyone have any pictures of their emissions delete on the bike? I’m having trouble understanding what I need to block. I have 1 nipple on the carb that doesn’t have a hose or cover. It’s the one but the throttle cables on the top
  7. Josiahxr

    Josiahxr Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2014
    Oddometer:
    114
    Location:
    ANF/PA Wilds aka Dualsport Central
    I think the one you are talking about just needs a vacuum plug over it. You can get an assortment of plugs at most autopart stores.
  8. Jahredi

    Jahredi Total turkey

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2020
    Oddometer:
    34
    Location:
    PNW
    Hey y’all. Just got a CRF230L about a month ago! I’ve really enjoyed reading through this thread. I’m beyond stoked on this little bike!

    It had 10k miles on it. Started right up but bogged heavily. Supposedly had been sitting since 2014, although I found evidence in all the stuff that came with it of the bike being worked on as recently as 2017.

    Things it came with:
    • BBR D2 exhaust (LOUD AF!)
    • 1 1/4” hole cut in airbox
    • Dynojet Stage 1…sort of…It had a #40 slow jet (brand unknown); #132 Dynojet main jet; and the stock needle with washer/shim. Plug indicated that it was running rich.
    Things I did:
    • Cleaned and rebuilt the carb with Dynojet Stage 2. Returned the slow jet to stock Kheihin #35, reduced the main jet to Dynojet #128, and added the Dynojet adjustable needle on the third notch from bottom AND included the stock washer––all per the Dynojet instructions. Pulls very evenly throughout the throttle range.
    • Ran Seafoam through crankcase for 50 miles, then changed the oil
    • Ran a strong concentrate of Seafoam through a tank of gas
    • Adjusted the throttle cables to give the throttle handle 3mm of play.
    • Replaced air filter with OEM part
    • Replaced spark plug with NGK DPR8EA-9
    • Replaced front brake pads
    • The forks tubes were bent. Had the them and the trips straightened, replaced seals and added some 10w fork oil.
    • Added Pirelli MT21 Rallycross tires; Front: 90/90-21 54R TT; Rear: 120/80-18 62R TT
    • Adjusted valve clearance to .004 in
    • Experimented with 12T front sprocket (PO had 14T). I went with a 13T, but really like the 12T…I might put the 12T back on next time I hit some single track, I feel like it could be helpful in the really narrow steep tree trails around here.
    • Interesting bit on the front sprocket. I ordered my first 13T (JTF287.13) from Amazon via the part finder thing, it said it fit but it did not. The splines were the wrong size. I ordered a different size 12T (JTF327.12) based on someone saying it fit in the comments, and it did. I ended up ordering the 13T in the same size as the 12T (JTF327.13) and it fit. FWIW, the 327 prefix is what fits the CRF230L
    • Added 45T rear sprocket (PO had OEM 39, it was a 95% commuter)
    • 115 link RK 520XS0 RX-Ring Chain at 30 on the adjusters with the 13T.
    • Added a Nelson Rigg Trails End Dual Sport/Enduro Tail Bag
    • Added Primus Fuel Bottle 1L
    • Added Nelson-Rigg Trails End Fuel Bottle Holder
    • Added ProTaper SE CR-Mid bars, basically the same as stock but straighter.
    • Added Cycra Pro Bend handguards (needed some washers, spacers and longer bolts, but they fit pretty easy).
    Things I may or may not do:
    • I may rebuild the top end this winter. Compression was around 165 dry. Clymers says 187psi.
    • I may not add the spacers in the front forks. It seems to suit me fine stock. I’m 5’7” and 165lb.
    Anyway, that’s it. Anybody have any good resources for rebuilding the top end? I have a Clymer’s (which is AMAZING!) but I also appreciate good first hand documentation from shade tree mechanics.

    Some pics of the process, ending with one from today in Capitol Forest.
    CE94BD82-B415-4943-9D66-5A99DD381577.jpeg 2AF20234-A908-4F22-9F71-DF3BC59F1F3B.jpeg 76CE6513-816B-42A8-A079-233EEF79B4B4.jpeg 8233236A-5343-4396-9FB1-99AB9BAA1C8F.jpeg AC666505-61C4-4EAE-8F4C-CE5CC301D034.jpeg AD64368E-655A-4F73-A023-CE5CF8F4E7D3.jpeg
    Ride Now likes this.
  9. SR56

    SR56 Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2013
    Oddometer:
    6,523
    Location:
    NW Florida
    There is a Honda manual for the CRF230L that is pretty good BUT I wouldn't rebuild the top end unless the bike is smoking or using oil. I have ~14,000 on mine and 13,999 are with the throttle pinned wide open...and my 230L still runs great and doesn't use any oil. I'd suggest running a good 100% synthetic oil...there are several good options. I use Mobil 1 20w50 V-Twin in all of my air cooled bikes.

    Gearing...I run 14:38. It is as tall as the bike will pull in 6th gear. I think I was the one that added the note about the JT Sprocket not fitting :imaposer.

    Three ways to select gearing:

    A. For the maximum top speed i.e. your top speed is reached at the same time you reach the maximum horsepower rpm. The 14:38 is what works best for me with a top speed of about 72-74 mph on flat ground.

    B. For maximum acceleration/torque in 1st gear.

    C. Some compromise between A. and B. above :D.

    There is no difference between being in 1st gear with 14:38 and 2nd gear with 13:45...I have no idea if the ratios in my example are identical but you get the idea. If you use 1st gear when riding (not just starting from a stop), then there is nothing wrong with 13:45 :-) but your top speed will be limited unless you over rev the engine. When riding single track I don't think I have ever use 1st gear with my 14:38 and I rarely use 2nd gear.

    A couple reason I like a bigger sprocket...

    A smaller sprocket will wear your chain faster (chain has to flex more to go around it).

    The smaller sprocket will wear faster than a larger one since each tooth comes in contact with the chain more often for a given speed.

    Remember the only person that has to be happy with your gearing is YOU so take all of my comments for what you feel they are worth :-).
  10. Jahredi

    Jahredi Total turkey

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2020
    Oddometer:
    34
    Location:
    PNW
    :clap
    I bet it was you with the 411 on the correct sprocket sku! It’s a long thread and you have contributed a ton of info throughout the years. Thanks.

    I found first gear relatively useless with 14:39, 12:45, and 13:45, so my aim was to find the ratio that provides solid torque in second and third and more or less just think about it like a 5 speed.

    But I might be thinking about it wrong. It wouldn’t be the first time lol

    I agree that first with 14:39 and second with 13:45 are similar torque. But—and it could be wishful thinking—I feel like second with 13:45 is longer than first with 14:39, which is nice on the single track for a little less shifting.

    My skills on tight, muddy, rutted, tree-lined single track are nothing to brag about and I rarely got out of third yesterday. I did enjoy the short first gear on the steep slippery downhill though. I felt like I was able to use the engine breaking more instead of slipping the clutch and using the brake.

    On the gravel roads between trails, ~50 mph was fast enough. I have a 100hp adventure bike if I’m feeling the need for speed :strum

    For me, the appeal of the CRF230L is that it’s light weight, maneuverable, street legal, and very inexpensive. Other than trucking the CRF230L to trails, I like to rip this little lightweight novelty around town doing the sort of things that ensure motorcycles keep a bad name :happay

    All that being said, I never tried the 14:45 gearing ratio… Maybe I’ll try that next!

    Thanks again for all the info!