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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by michaelkozera, Jan 4, 2019.
Mad Max. I like it!!
got the subframe painted, and the skid plate. went with asphalt paint, gave it a nice bronze look.
i took the time to rebuild both front and rear brakes, rebuilt the cylinder, new fluid, greased the rear brake lever mount, etc etc. reused the old pads for now, but will need new ones soon.
i also took the time to resurface both rotors, after 260,000kms the rotors are basically shot, i dont see them lasting much longer. comparing them to the "newish" rotors on my other set of wheels i would say ive got 60% of the original material left.
also added some aluminum bits the replace the steel for lighter weight.
next up, do a compression test, tear the engine apart and do a full rebuild on the engine (if needed). also gotta rebuild the front forks.
Haven't seen any discussion of wheels so far. Since not all weight is equal, and reducing unsprung weight has a bigger effect on handling, do you have any way to reduce weight from the swingarm or front forks on down?
Not much to be saved there. Titanium bolts for the rotors perhaps. Floating rotors would be lighter too. As for the swing arm, its already aluminum so not much there to save.
Tires will be the biggest weight saving. When i went from HD tubes to regular tubes i easily saved over a kg each. Offroad focused tires tend to weigh less usually too. You would be suprised how much rubber weighs
You could always take out every other spoke...
or some proper GT rims
I build wheels and that worries me.
What about some more oomph once you're at it?
I've just sent this out to British Columbia. It's a mild head (decked to 11.2 CR, valve seats recut, and blended with the bowls, casting marks cleaned, dividers knife edged, exhaust and combustion chamber polished) and a set of mild cams (intake with modified ramp, heel and timing, exhaust with modified duration, lift, etc fot more valve overlap) will see how it's measuring on a dyno later, but should be good for roughly 58-60 hp with a _lot_ of midrange boost.
Perhaps if the engine was new or lightly used. At 260,000km i dont exactly wanna push my luck, even after a rebuild.
These engines are bullet proof, hence why i chose the 500twin, but everything has mechanical limits.
IMO, the 500twin has ample power, especially in such a light frame/bike. I even had mine geared up to lower highway cruising rpm and the bike still felt peppy.
Back when i had my 250 and modded it to 305cc i did port polishing myself and it was not really a noticible difference in power even back to back on the dyno. However i did notice a slightly better fuel economy, but i cant say it was as a direct result of the port polish. Fyi the crf250l had extremely rough ports, on the seams of the cast, like sharp burrs and uneven casting.
Furthermore. If more power is needed i feel like it would make the bike less reliable. At that point you might as well get the new crf450l. More power, lighter bike and more capable.
The crf500l shines in its reliability. 12,000km oil change interval, 86octane fuel, valve check 24,000km!!!! Like jesus, what more could one want. Even my 500 ive only checked the valves 5 times and never where they out of spec. Sure i adjusted one valve twice, but didnt need to, it was still within spec.
reminds me of a klr650, or drz400.
u know like those ones that never die Lol.
Apparently you're the champ whennit comes to the highest mileage 500 out there, but I deliberately made the modifications very subtle. The Japanese domestic cb400x runs the same engine only with a shorter stroke to limit capacity to 399cc, and from that almost 20% less volume it gets very reliable 47hp. It has the same CR as mine (11.2) and a bit higher rpm limit.
I have also found that a good porting and polishing helps fuel economy slightly - the cbr head also had some rough cast marks (not too bad tho) but the valve seat trasitions in the bowls were very rough and the combustion chamber also had sharp edges.
Power comes from the CR bump and mainly the modified cams the porting is only there to support those. Frankly I don't see that it would push the engine too far. It is the same power that the other utterly destructive earlier cb500 version had with carbs, no balancer shaft and lower spec components.
I don't build wheels and this completely terrifies me...….WTF...????
installed a bunch of aluminum screws today, didn't save much, only about 1/3 of a pound, but hey they look cool and every little bit counts haha. only costed 20$. of course i only replaced the fairing screws, and screws that were not load bearing/important, like brakes, engine, etc etc.
on some more serious weight reduction. completely removed the rear pegs and mounts, also cut out alot of extra metal bits back from when the bike was a 250cc, (old muffler mounts, wiring harness mounts, random unused metal tabs). also cut down the license plate mount.
grand total, including the screw replacement was 1680g (3.7lb's). not bad, but still have a long way to go to get to 300lb's or less.
im also went ahead and ordered these:
next on the list is engine compression test, maybe a rebuild too.
i almost want to start crying.
to any builders out there that understand just how much time and effort it take to build custom panels....... i used plastic from an old plastic garbage can, heat molded them like 20x each , test fit 20x, took the entire bike apart 20x to make sure every thing fits, now its all coming off!
countless hours of work.
it will never be the same again.
on a positive note, i figured out what im gonna do with the headlight.
here are the old highbeam/lowbean LED headlights off my crf1000l.
got me thinking, slap them together (one upside down) and stuff it inside the stock crf250l headlight. would make a great, lightweight, yet powerful headlight.
i spend alot of money on this aluminum subframe/ tower. i think it was actually well over 500$ just for the frame. if anyone is interested please PM me, i wont charge much, just need it gone and i would feel horrible throwing something of this high quality in the garbage.
im also thinking about selling my 2nd set of wheels. refurbished rotors, all cleaned up, perhaps can come with the tires if the price is right. come with bearing boots and rear sprocket. please PM me if interested.
You removed the headlights from your Africa Twin...what replaced them, on the AT?
i replaced them with bi-x LED projectors:
its all in my ATAS build thread.
OK thanks I saw that just didn't put two-n-two together to see you were same guy doing all this badassery.