CRF500L V2.0

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by michaelkozera, Jan 4, 2019.

  1. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    Yeah. I tend to do things way over the top, On pretty much anything/everything i do. Haha
    #61
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  2. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    so i could not contain myself, i just had to weigh it. i removed everything that i wanted to remove. now there are a few more weigh saving things i can do, but i still need to install a headlight, dash, and switches, so any weight i take off will be countered by that.

    i needed to weigh it to see if i was even close to 300Lb's wet.........sadly im nowhere near.........


    altho not the final weigh in, bike comes in at 319.2lb's wet, grrrrrrrrr. so no way i can get to 300lb's.

    still got me thinking, incase anyone out there was to attempt 300lb's wet:
    -if i reinstalled the stock 7.5L tank that would save ~9lb's
    -single carbon pipe vs dual aluminum pipe ~2lb's
    -some sort of light weight headlight ~?? 2lb's
    -lightweight tires/rims/tubes ~??? 3lb's
    -no skid plate/ no hand gaurds/ no radiator gaurd ~??5lb's??

    so 300lb's wet is totally possible, but i think you would sacrifice way to much.......

    o well on with the build. 320lb's 500twin dual sport is still magical IMO. basically the weight of a DRZ400, but with like twice the get up and go and half the headaches :lol3
    #62
  3. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    but there is good news.

    i got a chance to take the top of the engine apart. did a valve check, all within spec as it has been for the last 3 years. i still made a minor adjustment on one of the exhaust valves (far right one). its the same one ive made adjustments on for the last 4 valve checks, i dont know why that one is wandering so much. probably because its pressed up against the valve chain cover and experiences the most heat/ heat cycles.

    compression test:
    approximately 150,000km's on the 500 engine. manual states 188 psi is stock/new.

    dry compression test:
    -c#1= 165psi (left cylinder)
    -c#2= 162psi (right cylinder)

    wet compression test:
    -c#1= 185psi
    -c#2= 184psi

    interestingly both tests show cylinder# 2 to be wearing slightly faster. again, probably because its in the middle of the engine sandwiched between c#1 and the valve chain.


    just incase people out there dont know exactly what these numbers mean. 165psi vs 188psi new after 150,000km is really good. infact thats very good for a motorbike engine, makes sense since this is a de-tunes 500 twin. that kind of loss over that many km's is approaching car engine levels of longevity. impressive honda, impressive. my R1 had the same loss in only 50,000km's!

    as for dry vs wet, dry is just testing compression with the engine as is.

    wet compression test involves putting oil directly into the spark plug hole ( no much perhaps a few ml). this will give you a higher reading as the oil acts like a seal to the rings and this gives you a better idea of how worn the rings are.

    example, if you dry reading is lets say 140psi, and wet 142, then you know the rings are leaking very bad.


    so needless to say im pretty happy. altho compression loss is an accelerated function, at this rate the engine ( the piston/rings at least) should last till 300,000km's. again, impressive Honda, very impressive.


    on with the build:
    [​IMG]




    brakes /suspension, 260,000km's of rust. this is what happens when you ride most of the winter here in calgary where they salt the roads 4 months a year. yuck:

    the front caliper is very rusted up, even after spraying it with rust converter......ima try and restore it but might need a new one
    [​IMG]

    the lower fork crown is made of steel, and rusting of course:
    [​IMG]


    stanchion covers held up pretty good, this is my 2nd set. i will be rebuilding the forks today, they will be like-new

    [​IMG]

    fork seals are not leaking, but after 260k km's there are alot of scratches in them.

    i blew the fork seals 4 times over the last 6 years of owenership. first time was within first 1,000km's i then put on stanchion covers and they only blew up after 100,000kms when i took the covers off for 1 day to replace them lol.

    i dont understand why honda cant make fork seals! like they make one hell of an engine, but for seals are made of cheese! i blew my crf1000l seals within the first 300km's ffs........

    [​IMG]




    on a final note, i had a few forum members PM me in the past saying im full of shit and i did not give my crf250l 12" of suspension travel. i wont call them out by name, but you know who you are!

    i rest my case, o and your move:
    [​IMG]



    some bad corrosion on the lower forks, that will ahve to be dealt with soon too
    [​IMG]
    #63
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  4. Oyabun

    Oyabun 親分

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    Keep on going.

    As by now I've seen quite lot if cylinder heads apart, I can confirm that it's somewha cyl #2 what is in worst shape.
    I've thought quite a lot about it, and I think I've found the cause.
    The ecu has slightly different fuel and ignition maps for the two cylinders. #2 is the cylinder what has the richer fuel map, what means when cold, that one has more fuel condensing and washing down the oil film from the cyl wall. It also has more csrbon buildup, what means quicker detoriation of the valve seats - they seem to be quite soft and as larger carbon pieces detach from the hood or the piston top they are hammered in the seats and get them pitted - also contributing to the sealing loss and clearance wandering.
    #64
  5. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    I did not know about the 2 different fuel maps per cylinder. But yes that would make sense.
    #65
  6. Oyabun

    Oyabun 親分

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    Recently I've been dwelling deep in the operations of our bikes a bit deeper than I thought originally. Indeed they have individual maps for the two cylinders.
    Will be showing something interesting soon.
    #66
  7. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    getting close to finish

    [​IMG]


    fabricated a radiator guard, simple, easy, strong, light, and still lets the radiator move around without hitting

    [​IMG]



    now for the headlight.

    i wanted to utilize my old crf1000L headlight. but only one LED module fits into the headlight.........


    [​IMG]

    so i slapped both together. some heat compound between both to help dissipate the heat.

    [​IMG]

    easy. top reflector is the highbeam, bottom is the lowbeam. 34w total power.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #67
  8. rally roo

    rally roo Total poser

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    Looks great! What's the beam pattern like with the upside down reflector? I think if anything you might gain some throw as it should now have the cutoff at the bottom.
    #68
  9. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    The highbeam is the top one which is upside down. But the highbeam is just a spot so it looks basically the same upside down or not.

    Ill take some output shots later
    #69
  10. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    lowbeam:
    [​IMG]

    highbeam:
    [​IMG]

    both:
    [​IMG]


    the stock headlight/ speedo mount was way heavy. made a custom aluminum one, it weighs 1/8th the weight!
    [​IMG]
    #70
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  11. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    Came out pretty good imo. I added alittle gold paint to match the forks and handle bars. looks mean!

    [​IMG]
    #71
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  12. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    new dash layout.

    left button is my "go dark" / "running from cops " button lol, turns off everything except for the highbeam. right button is heated grips.

    [​IMG]

    close to finished, just need to tweak a few things, and swap the wheels to the offroad set

    close to 13" of ground Clarence with a full tank of gas and no rider.

    [​IMG]



    cant figure out if i should put a windscreen on? thoughts? im leaning more towards no windscreen

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    #72
  13. ben2go

    ben2go Long timer

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    Screen for the cold and/or rain and no screen for the warmer day.
    #73
  14. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    i was thinking more crf1000L for the warmer days, and crf500L for the winter haha
    #74
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  15. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    engine guards, very impressed. good fit and finish, light weight, and surprisingly beefy.

    thanks to who ever that was that recommended them!


    20190225_234403.jpg

    20190225_234423.jpg
    #75
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  16. Scutty

    Scutty Talent-limited bike builder and rider

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    Does the right-hand engine guard not interfere with the brake pedal? I looked at those but my brake pedal is already a PITA to get to now, wothout making the engine wider at that point.
    #76
  17. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    i had to cut down the bottom screw mount yes. not much, like 1/2" only
    #77
  18. Scutty

    Scutty Talent-limited bike builder and rider

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    Ah yes, I can just see that in the photo.

    have you extended the brake pedal tip at all?
    #78
  19. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    My brake is about 40% longer then stock. Yes.
    #79
  20. michaelkozera

    michaelkozera Long timer

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    almost done, almost time for final weigh in!


    spent the last few nights dialing in the headlight aim.


    just finished rebuilding the rear brake, the slider seal broke again, and was pissing lube out. 2nd time in 267,000km that this seal has ripped apart. i might consider making a protector for it as i suspect its when i go deep mudding or gravel roads and the sticks and rocks hit it causing wear.


    just finished up the new (refurbished) 2nd set of wheels. i balanced them and cleaned them up.

    running t63 and TM-2. replaced the HD-tubes with regular tubes, saved 1.2kg! (2.7lb!!). not a huge fan of HD tubes anymore, as they are way harder to put on and dont offer an improvement in puncture resistance, at least from what i have seen??? however i never go below 20psi, perhaps that why.



    aluminum sprocket and spacers of course.

    [​IMG]
    #80
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