Cycle South 2019 la segunda parte. From Ohio to Ushuaia (now in Ecuador)

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Ohio_Danimal, Apr 24, 2018.

  1. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

    Joined:
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    4E1DA825-8F76-4280-B3A5-BF56B5E383C7.jpeg 065B1F1F-3861-4576-BEB9-E5F8209AC9F3.jpeg 51197775-5DA3-4062-9D24-50876315E2EC.jpeg 05D78EE2-F588-493A-842F-0E5D53D485F8.jpeg D61D93DD-C1CF-428B-9D97-C9255FBD45E4.jpeg 3468E1F3-FF0A-437E-B1C3-02586AA7890A.jpeg 050B00E1-F0C6-4BA8-8E9C-2B36DCAC4E2B.jpeg B5C566E7-B68F-4D4D-A5EC-C7B8C0A31EA6.jpeg 2B866B0F-1B99-4A6B-BC0B-DB998C1E0C4E.jpeg 71986C82-2413-4AF5-8818-5ADD8AB35682.jpeg As we descended yesterday from the relative coolness and comfort of 7000+ ft elevations towards the Magdalena River Valley you could feel and see the changes in temperature and humidity.
    First my glasses fogged in the helmet.
    Then the closed sleeve and chest vents on my Klim Badlands Pro jacket became apparent again, warranting a quick stop to open up and let air in.
    By the time we rolled across the river in Rt45, it was hot...and sticky.
    Neither the maps in my Garmin Zumo or Google maps knew about the new construction going on. The new road, beautifully made, completely bypasses La Dorado, our initial destination. We had already decided on Honda, a few miles further South, and I had booked a room in an old hotel on Airbnb.
    After meeting our hosts, and unloading our overnight things, we moved the bikes down a few spots on the street and into a private gated parking area where a family (friends of the hotel) lived.
    The room is $40000 COP per night ($14 US) Parking is $3000 COP.
    I’m loving the low costs in Colombia!
    The shower felt wonderful.
    Then we walked all over, enjoying the less-touristy feel of Honda.
    Like most Colombian cities, both large and small we’ve seen, there are motorcycles everywhere. Chinese and Indian-made small singles mainly. Pulsar, Boxer, KMT, and many more you’ll never see back home.
    These aren’t “motorcyclists” really. They are people wanting inexpensive transportation. A chain of bikes flowing all around. It’s mesmerizing at times.
    We settled on a small place by the river for our meal. I had chicken, rice, plantains and salad. Adrian choose fish.
    While we ate, a local pulled up riding pillon on a small Pulsar holding a 15lb-range Tiger Catfish he’s just caught, still flopping. He negotiated a price with the restaurant owner and off he went.
    While eating I was accosted by a small kitten with one eye (second one-eyed cat on the trip) and Adrian and I promptly fed it many bits of chicken and fish. It was very appreciative!
    Today we head back into the mountains and the relative coolness of Salento.
    We will stay there two nights to allow a day trip to the Cocora Valley 20 minutes outside Salento.
    There we will see the valley filled with wax palm trees that grow to over 200 feet high. It’s something a lot of Overland moto travelers check out, but it’ll be my vision perceiving it. Looking forward to this stop.
  2. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

    Joined:
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    I’d also like to take a moment to offer my thanks to a few of the companies that helped me out on my trip, one in particular.
    Not only are they a top-notch business, the owner has since become a dear friend. One of the smartest, wittiest and most caring individuals you’ll ever meet.
    I’m referring to TG “Woody” Witte of Woodys Wheel Works (@woody's wheel works )
    The wheels that their master builder Jerrod built for Sunny have been literally flawless in over 30,000 miles I’ve travelled since leaving Denver last July, just over a year ago.
    Countless topes. Innumerable chuckholes. Many many miles of dirt trails and unpaves roads, including the TAT West to East last year. Being impacted on the rear wheel by a taxi in Oaxaca last Summer. Multiple crashes.
    I’ve become so confident in them I rarely inspect them, but when I do (just last week) I’m amazed that they are still perfectly true, with zero loose spokes. And what spokes!! They are the thickness of a small child’s fingers! (Exaggerates lol)
    @woody's wheel works is, IMO the finest custom spoked-wheel house on the planet. If they’re good enough for Lyndon Poskit they’re likely good enough for your needs. If any of you need Wheel work or are thinking of a custom set, give them a call. You won’t be disappointed.
    Woody if you’re reading this, know in your heart that seeing you and Denver again is one of the few things I miss of the USA currently.
    A few other shout outs to those that helped.
    @RoxStuff Their anti-vibration handlebar riser has made long days riding a big single more tolerable. The difference is noticeable.
    @JNS Engineering The case saver /sprocket cover is easy to remove for sprocket replacement, and, God forbid a chain breaks, will do its job preventing case breakage.
    @guglemonster Their fuel filter/ water trap eases worries when filling up in dodgy places.
    That’s about it. Sorry to be commercial like this, as I rarely am, but it’s been a long time on the road for parts one and two of this grand journey (the break being after I nearly died in a Oaxaca hospital) and these items mentioned have helped me have confidence in my bike, which is needed on such a trip.
    Gracias
    BillUA, qman8, JimsBeemer and 8 others like this.
  3. RedHawk47

    RedHawk47 Adventurer Supporter

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    Dan, I enjoyed our visit at Overland Expo, and your ride report and photos. The photo of your bike on the rubber raft made me nervous. Did you climb to the top of El Pinol?
    If you are interested in someplace remote, consider Sierra de Chiribiquete, Calamar, Guaviare, Colombia
    Cliffs, mountains, jungle, pictographs, incredible vistas.
    I have not been there except thru viewing the wonderful photos by @rtwpaul
    I do not know what accommodations are in that area; probably not much.

    Dan
  4. FireDog45

    FireDog45 Knockin' on retirement's door

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    Just sent my wheels off to Woody’s to work their magic before we start back on the TAT. Didn’t even consider anyone else, largely because of stories like yours and others here.
    Ohio_Danimal likes this.
  5. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

    Joined:
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    Hi Dan!
    I also enjoyed meeting you at OE. Seems so long ago!
    Yes, climbed El Piñon. Good workout and beautiful vistas.
    Thanks for the suggestions and especially thanks for following along!
    SLUGGO and Blumtnman like this.
  6. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

    Joined:
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    You won’t be sorry. @woody's wheel works will make a convert of you too. If you converse with them, tell Jerod I said hey!
    Rudderfeet and FireDog45 like this.
  7. FireDog45

    FireDog45 Knockin' on retirement's door

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    Will do
  8. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

    Joined:
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    9A2AB793-C70A-4B04-8D9C-6E9378F2C0B4.jpeg D2C1466C-DC89-4E3F-B8D5-24DDC88D5206.jpeg We stayed at Hostal Villabosco last night just NE of Cali. They had a nice swimming pool and decent restaurant too. It kinda wasn’t near any town center of cultural artifacts, which I normally prefer, but was clean and cheap, and right in the right spot as far as needed rest.
    Today I rode to Popayan with Adrian and we got a room near the town center in the Arte Hostel. Private room with two beds and a bathroom (hot water!!) and breakfast and coffee anytime included for $20,000 COP/night! That’s less than $7.00 US. Right in my comfort zone budget-wise.
    So after a short rest I assume we’re going food hunting.
    Only pics for now are from the city of Santander de Quilchao, where we stopped to take a break in the town square and had awesome sno-cones made with fresh pineapple and fruit syrups.
    Not far from Ecuador now!
    Blumtnman, 2talltim, Cal and 4 others like this.
  9. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

    Joined:
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  10. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    Pictures from the walking tour of the coffee plantation “Don Elias” just outside Salento Colombia



    Our knowledgeable guide Tiro
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    One year old dog appropriately named Coffee




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    Banana and berries grown provide compost to keep soil at right pH for these Arabica beans

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    Attached Files:

  11. 2talltim

    2talltim Resident MacGyver

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    Looks beautiful brother.
  12. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    Old plants being cut back

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    An old plant with leaf disease still producing cherries
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    Old machine still used to remove the bean from the cherry




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    Drying tent

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    Dried unroasted beans, as they are shipped

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    Some were roasted for us to taste

    26B90A5B-24DC-498E-A86A-A0ECA392D515.jpeg 1B784899-AA60-4BAD-86A4-643C4AE75819.jpeg More!
  13. qman8

    qman8 15 GSA / 16 WR250R

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    Been there, seen that! Quite impressive!
  14. Jay_In_Milpitas

    Jay_In_Milpitas Zero to sixty in February

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    coffee coffee coffee coffee coffee coffee coffee pee
  15. Quindio

    Quindio Adventurer

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    mmmmmmm......Cafe Quindio......:*sip*
  16. JimsBeemer

    JimsBeemer 2017 R1200GSA

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    We went there and had the same guide!
    Jim
    Ohio_Danimal likes this.
  17. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

    Joined:
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    CB3C3A2C-F823-4567-AFED-C1637A888EC5.jpeg So we both decided to stay in Popayan another couple days.
    Seems tomorrow is Colombia’s Independence Day and everything is closed for the party. That explains the huge stage set up in el Centro and all the outdoor restaurants set up and the generally large crowds around.
    Both Adrian and I need oil changes, and today we stopped by a Honda Dealer and arranged for them to be done Thursday morning. The Service Manager Felipe Ruiz is looking forward to seeing our “large bikes” as he put it lol.
    After that, when I leave Friday, it seems we will both be headed our own ways, at least for a while.
    I’m headed to Quito Ecuador to meet Sata Gavilanes and see his DR650-centric motorcycle shop named “Moto Hell” and have some work done. And stay with Sata and hang out a bit. Maybe do some off road riding with him (without all my luggage of course)
    Adrian will make a beeline towards Lima Peru to meet up with his Sister who is flying in to meet him and spend some time together. That would be cool to have family come to me and visit!
    Who knows what after that. No doubt we will run into each other again on the road to Ushuaia. We’re both aiming at getting down there in the December timeframe so there’s plenty of time!
    It was great riding with someone a while and getting to know him and make a new friend!
    Tomorrow here in Popayan should be an epic party! Hopefully I’ll get some good pictures of the celebrations! So far I’m loving Colombia!
    Today we took a bus trip to the city of Silvia and walked around their giant markets. That’s what the attached pictures are of. The
    Guambiano women all wore similar purple cloaks and the women and men wore bowler hats. When we got off the bus at altitude it was cool, so I started off by buying a locally made throw over shawl, which helped a lot and was less than $2.00 US!!
    The bus ride back was more brutal. It was packed. One passenger even was carrying a live chicken! Some had sacks of potatoes and rice from the market. I fell asleep several times as the did the woman sitting next to me as I’d wake up with her head on my shoulder lol.
    Now for a rest and then back to el Centro!





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    Spud City
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    Frutaria

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    Carniceria


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    Silvia Street art

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    A real chicken bus
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    CapitalG5, FireDog45, BillUA and 8 others like this.
  18. Cal

    Cal Long timer

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    That chicken bus looks like it has a mast on the roof:lol3 Maybe it can be raised to help with gas mileage:rofl
    Ohio_Danimal likes this.
  19. Grynch

    Grynch Long timer

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    Holy Toledo! I did not realize how much stuff you had on the back of your bike. Unless it is an optical illusion!
    Anyway, nice pics!
  20. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    01923CE7-382B-4138-B39E-273E12478936.jpeg
    Yeah. That’s a perspective thing on that pic. I mean I am carrying a nice load, but that pic makes it look gargantuan. Here’s a better look