Cycle South 2019 la segunda parte. From Ohio to Ushuaia (now in Ecuador)

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Ohio_Danimal, Apr 24, 2018.

  1. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    Had a nice late afternoon walk around town. Most all of the mess from the large celebrations are cleaned up. I’m trying to take it easy for a few days to rest muscles that are sore from hiking and causing my sciatica to act up.
    Tomorrow’s another rest day and then it’s off further South to Pasto Colombia!


    Statue in main square of Popayan
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    Another of Popayan’s many statues

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  2. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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  3. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    Please excuse the crude video lol. It’s my first attempt at editing and I was up late trying to figure out how to use the video editing software that comes with Windows 10.
    On top of that, the camera angle on the helmet shots is pointed down too low.
    It’s a learning curve. And I had fun doing it, which really is all that matters in the end. I wouldn’t do any of these updates etc if I wasn’t enjoying it.
  4. SOLOKLR

    SOLOKLR Back to work

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    I don't usually watch videos on ADV, but that was awesome!
    Ohio_Danimal and Sunday Rider like this.
  5. Sunday Rider

    Sunday Rider Adventurer Wanabe

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    I really enjoyed that video and the music worked perfect. Thanks!


    edit: Meant to ask what the checkpoint stop was for? Customary to let the motorbikes go to head of the line (no one looked upset)?
    drhippie2 likes this.
  6. HG HG

    HG HG n00b

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    Nice video

    Love the Columbia mountains

    RIDE ON
  7. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    On the road from the Pan American highway to Puerto Carti, you pass into territory owned by the Kuna Tribe (they also own the rights to the San Blas Islands that the Stahlratte sails through. Capt. Ludwig has fostered a relationship with them to allow passage, anchorage and fresh food/lobster exchange) and at that toll area you are basically stamping your visa/passport out of Panama and paying the Kuna $23 US to allow use of the road and port.
    And....down here, motorcycles are permitted to filter to the front of everything imaginable. Hell, on queto (toll highways) there is a lane to the far right that allows bikes to pass through for free.
    The numbers of motorcycles in Colombia boggles the mind. Millions. Literally. The Chinese and Indian manufacturing base has all the bases covered with a large number of 100-250 cc singles. They get 70mpg+ and are cheap and reliable. Here they aren’t owned for recreation. Here they are cheap, efficient transportation.
    Sure there are a few bigger bikes owned by the well-to-do, but they are vastly in the minority.
    My problem in most major cities is that following the flow of bikes filtering through traffic to a light, etc can be hard because of my bike’s width with the luggage.
    Still....I do my best.
    BillUA, Turkeycreek, qman8 and 7 others like this.
  8. qman8

    qman8 15 GSA / 16 WR250R

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    The smile on your face speaks volumes! Enjoy and be safe!
    Envious!
  9. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    Wow does Google Maps suck sometimes.
    Left the heat and humidity of El Remolino this morning, looking forward to the climb to 9000 ft. to Pasto Colombia and it’s cooler temperatures. The roads were a broken mess at first and improved greatly the closer I got to Pasto.
    I stopped along the way for some coffee at a random roadside place and saw for the first time Cuya (guinea pig) being roasted in a clay dome open fire. Was kinda tempted to try some as I know I will eventually (it’s a delicacy in Peru and elsewhere) but I’d just had a large breakfast.
    Back to Google sucking lol.
    As I entered the valley that Pasto is in, it routed me into town on the craziest, steepest dirt and stone I’ve been on since the TAT in Utah last Summer!
    Made it though.
    When I found the entrance to the apartment I rented for tonight, I was told I was several hours too early. I had to convince the parking guy to open the street gate and let me down into the basement parking area, where I locked Sunny up with helmet and jacket and went for a walk to the main town square.
    There I met Carlos Ruiz and his family, who had multiple shoe-shine stands set up. We chatted a bit and then for 5000 COP he made my beat-to-shit Alpinestar boots look Nuevo again!

    Now am at Vol Cafe on the square having another cup of Joe and watching the Colombian world go by. It’s what you do in Colombia!
    Here’s a few cell pics from today
    The Andes mountains at around 11,000 ft
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    Roast Cuya
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    Carlos making my Alpinestars look new again.
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    RedHawk47, CapitalG5, td63 and 10 others like this.
  10. Drybones

    Drybones Fish bones are on my truck seat cover, too

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    Wow, was that a "spit shine"? or are they still wet?
  11. Jay_In_Milpitas

    Jay_In_Milpitas Zero to sixty in February

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    Nice stuff. Cuya Pec tends to have more meat and be more tender than rat. It's quite tasty.
    That last picture, that's how my shoes often look after using the urinal. Be glad you're still younger.
    scout68 likes this.
  12. powderpig

    powderpig Adventurer Supporter

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    So, does it taste like guinea or pig?
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  13. JimsBeemer

    JimsBeemer 2017 R1200GSA

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    The exact same thing happened to us as we tried to enter Pasto a month ago, lol! But in our case, at one point I stopped and told Carol “you wait here”, then I rode ahead for a mile or two. When I finally found a place to turn around, I got back to Carol and said “we are NOT going that way!“ I got back to a major road and kept driving until Google decided on a route that did not involve a u-turn back to that same road.
  14. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    That’s the finished product son. No spit was used (that I saw lol)
    Folks in town were looking at me wide-eyed, me walking around in my moto-pants with knee armor sticking out, boots glistening.

    I’ll trust you on ALL of that Jay!

    I heard it’s like a cross between chicken and duck. We will see!
    At one point it was narrow as fuck and STEEP and some ollld woman warned me to not try going down it.
    Like I’d listen lol.
    Wish she would have been on the TAT last Summer with the same warnings. My pinched sciatic nerve is a result of me trying to get the loaded DR650 upright after one of multiple crashes one day. Wheels pointing up, 6 feet down in a ravine, me thinking I had a broken ankle (was just sprained)
    That took a Herculean effort to get outta that one.
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  15. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    It was a weird day. Stunning scenery bit weird. You know...when things don’t seem to flow well.

    it was supposed to be a short ride from Pasto to Ipiales Colombia (which is RIGHT on the Ecuador border).

    I was looking forward to staying at the Hostal Ruisenor which is where lots of moto-travelers have stayed and spoke highly of.

    About an hour out of Ipiales, I came to completely stopped traffic, with folks standing outside their cars. Some dancing with music playing loud, some eating food street vendors were selling.
    The semi-festive mood should have lifted my spirits but I took it as a fortelling of a long delay.
    Like all motorcycles, I filtered around the stopped cars trucks and busses as there was no oncoming traffic.

    About two miles later, came to the front of the que where a few dozen motorcycles were parked and the riders hanging out.
    It seemed that road construction ahead had caused a major landslide that completely blocked the road ahead and destroyed an earthmover as well.

    The stop lasted over two hours. I managed to get a few telephoto shots I’ll post later of other heavy equipment clearing the mess by basically shoving boulders and rocks over the cliff. This is in a very mountainous area of the Andes at over 9000 ft altitude.

    The go-ahead finally given, I boogied into Ipiales and found the Hostal.

    Only no one was there.

    I waited two more hours, messaging the owner and trying to reach him on the phone but to no avail. Bummer.

    So I suited back up and rode through town to Hotel Zaracay, a place recommended on iOverlander. 50,000 COP for two nights ($16 US)

    Supposed to have fast wifi. Hot water. Comfy beds. We’ll see lol.

    Bike is locked in gated parking in the basement. Had to carry my gear up three flights. Oh to be young again!

    Now to change and find food. You know, the usual routine.

    Oh yeah I forgot. I may be meeting someone I met online through the Pan American Riders FB page tomorrow, and riding across the border into Ecuador with her. I think she’s from England. She flew into Bogata and bought a Honda XRE300 (fine bike!) and has been travelling all over Colombia.

    I won’t mention any more details about her without her permission first, but she should be arriving here tomorrow. She’s a day behind me in Pasto tonight.
  16. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    Selfie in the Andes

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    My motel in El Remolina
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    About 12,000 ft

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    Rode this unpaved road 25km to a small village (and back...found out it’s a dead end)

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    Construction on 25. Big bridge being built

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    2 hr delay to clear landslide caused by construction
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    Telephoto of crane clearing debris
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  17. Grynch

    Grynch Long timer

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    How much does the XRE 300 cost in Colombia? It sounds like a good option. Thanks for the pics!
  18. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    I’m not sure. A friend of mine in Mexico owns one and let me ride it one afternoon. A great all-rounder.
    I saw one in Popayan at a Honda Dealer painted optic green for Police use. Didn’t think to check the price tag. It was the largest displacement bike there at the time.
    And you’re welcome for the pics. I enjoy sharing them and details from my trip. It’s my online journal!
    ScotsFire, Jay_In_Milpitas and Grynch like this.
  19. Wandergives

    Wandergives Been here awhile

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    That 25k dirt dead end looks like time well spent!
  20. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    I should have taken pics, but was kind of busy being in awe