Cycle South 2019 la segunda parte. From Ohio to Ushuaia ( now in Huancayo Peru)

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Ohio_Danimal, Apr 24, 2018.

  1. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    As I often do, I decided to stay another night here in Huanchacho. I like the room. Like the cost. Like the town, even though it’s been overcast and cool. I figured today I’d actually look at maps and decide where to go next, as I really don’t know, and am kinda winging it as I go. I like the freewheeling travel itineraries. And it also prepares you for days when things don’t go as planned, because it solidifies your ability to be flexible and think as you go.
    So I woke up today feeling kinda lonely. Not sure why. Not even sure of The Who or what I’m lonely for.
    I miss my Son Spencer. Even though he’s not readily available living in Boston.
    I miss my Father’s face and crankiness lol.
    I miss a few friends pretty badly.
    Funny thing. I don’t miss Ohio or even the United States much if at all. I’ll certainly get over these melancholy feelings soon enough tomorrow morning once I’m rolling again.
    Thanks to Jim (JimsBeemer here on ADV) I’ve decided to head tomorrow to Chavin and then on to Chacas, two small villages in the Andes (back into altitude) that Jim and his wife enjoyed. They’re riding to Ushuaia as well and are a few days ahead of me.
    After that, pointing South to Lima. The Brit I rode Colombia with after sharing the Stahlratte ride, Adrian Cromey, is still in Lima having repair work done on his Yamaha TTR600 (new top end, relaced rear wheel, new intake manifold amongst other things) so maybe I can see Adrian again. He was a cool guy.
    Other than that things are good. Feeling well. Bike is well. A few things need replaced soon, but I’m sure I can make it to Cusco Peru for them (chain/sprockets, tires). I’d love it if I could get a pair of Metzler Karoo 3 tires. The front Karoo 3 I’m running now (mounted in Chetumal Mexico) is getting down there, but was a great tire!
    My rear Michelin Serac tire (also mounted in Chetumal) was so-so. Far better on pavement. Ok in hard pack. Sucks in loose dirt or mud. I’m sure there’ll be something good in Cusco. Maybe even Mitas E-07’s or MotoZ GPS’ !! Who knows.
    My chain is in no danger, just getting sloppy and has over 30,000 miles on it now. Sprockets actually look good! Not sharp or hooked teeth at all (JT steel). But normally when I put a new chain on I replace sprockets as well (the idea being that they wear in together). Maybe this time I’ll be cheaper and just do the chain. Now off to find lunch.
  2. powderpig

    powderpig Adventurer Supporter

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    Hi Dan, while we aren't physically with you, remember you have a large community following along on your ride, so you really aren't alone. Thanks for all the effort you put into keeping the trip report current for us to enjoy along with you. Stay safe.
  3. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

    Joined:
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    I truly appreciate the support. And I know I’m not really alone in that sense.
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  4. Quindio

    Quindio Adventurer Supporter

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    You made it through Ecuador at the right time, the Government had to flee the Capital today. Hopefully they get things under control there soon.

    When I'm traveling and feeling a little alone I like to get a bottle of Tequila and I always seem to make a lot of friends about half way through the bottle. :1drink
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  5. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    I can relate. as soon as I left Ecuador things went to shit there.
    And shortly after entering Peru, their President dissolved Congress to fight corruption.
    It’s the Trump effect following me lol
  6. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

    Joined:
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    4574E2A7-D786-4380-A438-0FD7DAD96D5E.jpeg 62E87D8D-9B14-40DF-A4E8-931926F195BF.jpeg 7730F318-6243-45A4-AEBF-320411A023F8.jpeg 9B8666A8-5DBA-42FD-A10B-4DFF633731BB.jpeg CE9D409D-F245-4A00-9B10-59288FE90119.jpeg BEF56F03-94DE-4F4D-8DFC-B7D639093F0B.jpeg 28029B73-3756-4D68-BD97-173E59BC98B0.jpeg 79C195C6-60AD-4303-AE4C-EB3164B37509.jpeg 2D29AC70-47FA-4437-BC45-E5919ACB1C61.png Boy I have a nice route planned tomorrow. It’ll weave through over 30 dangerous one-lane tunnels along a river.
    And from the coast up and over two major passes in the Andes.
    Here’s a google satellite image of where I am now and where I’m going. You can see the two ridges of the mountains clearly.
    Also some street art, this time surfer town street art from Huanchacho.
  7. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    What a stunning ride today riding Huanchaco to Caraz via Cañon del Pato. It crazily winds along the river as it ascends the Andes. Dozens of one lane unlit tunnels in a dirt and rock road (some paved)
    After a while you get used to bleating your horn before every blind switchback and tunnel entrance. Only twice were there close calls.
    After arriving in Caraz I checked into my Airbnb room and took a nap. Upon waking at 6 (when all the restaurants open anyways) I went for a walk looking for food.
    Walked out of the house to see this magnificent sunset! (Pics from the ride coming)
    Hope you enjoy

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  8. Sunday Rider

    Sunday Rider Adventurer Wanabe

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    Beautifully caught sunset and surroundings. Glad you had a safe and good ride. Those tunnels are worrisome. Thanks for the update.
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  9. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    I’m not feeling good today, same issues last two times I climbed back to higher altitude. Slight headache and dizziness, although lesser now than this morning.
    So I booked another night here at Yolanda’s in Caraz and will ride up to Laguna Paron tomorrow assuming I feel normal.
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  10. Turkeycreek

    Turkeycreek Gringo Viejo

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    Chew some leaf
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  11. Sunday Rider

    Sunday Rider Adventurer Wanabe

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    Hopefully you feel way better today!
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  12. jimjim

    jimjim Just another FF!

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    Drink more water!
  13. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

    Joined:
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    EF818C1F-9BE2-4973-98FF-37F2624B7BAD.jpeg 8BFDA939-679D-4A56-ACE3-D804E2EFC506.jpeg 85035308-B26C-44B2-87CE-30C432332818.jpeg B299D1E0-1759-4860-A985-B60E3EEEF0E7.jpeg Well, yet another epic crazy day in the books.

    I just returned to Caraz Peru from Laguna Paron and man am I beat!

    Left early to try to beat cloudy weather at the top.

    I packed a can of tuna, two fresh rolls and a squeeze pouch of mayo for lunch.

    Carried water in my camelback and brought hiking shoes to try to climb to the mirador (overlook) that lies 1000 ft above the lake.

    The ride up was rough rough rough. Boy Sunny was happy I left all the luggage back at my room. Much more manageable in the rough stuff. Babyheads, silt and sand, water crossings, innumerable switchbacks all climbing steeply.

    By the time I arrived at the toll gate (5 soles) I was already breathing hard and it was barely 11,000 ft.

    The road from the toll booth if anything was worse, and the switchbacks tighter and steeper. THIS is why I’m running a little lower gear ratio than stock. To save the clutch when negotiating rough tight uphill turns with loose surface.

    Eventually arrived at the lake. Took a few pics, stashed my gear at the hostel there, switched to shoes and began the hike to the lookout behind a group of French backpackers.

    Wow.

    I had to stop every 100 yards or so to rest and let my heart rate drop back a bit before continuing. Eventually made it to the overlook and took more pics and rested before descending back to the lake and my bike.

    Once at the lake, I enjoyed tuna sandwiches and the view. Asked a local to take my pic. We’ll see how it turned out later when I manually move the pics from the Nikon to my laptop.

    The normal method of transferring pictures via Bluetooth isn’t working because the Nikon SnapBridge app keeps crashing because, like an idiota, I updated my iPhone software to the latest iOS 13.1.2 and now I get an error message from Nikon saying they’re aware of the problem and are working on it. Great !
    So for now, it’s swapping memory cards, using the laptop, etc etc. Keeping the media flowing on a trip of this length can be daunting. Sometimes I just want to ride, eat, sleep, rinse and repeat.

    Now I’m repacking the bike, drinking cocoa tea and looking forward to tomorrow’s ride to Chacas. EF818C1F-9BE2-4973-98FF-37F2624B7BAD.jpeg 8BFDA939-679D-4A56-ACE3-D804E2EFC506.jpeg 85035308-B26C-44B2-87CE-30C432332818.jpeg B299D1E0-1759-4860-A985-B60E3EEEF0E7.jpeg
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  14. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    Pictures from today's epic ride from Caraz Peru, up higher into the Andes to Laguna Paron

    Tomorrow it's off to Chacas for a few days!



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  15. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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  16. Klinc207

    Klinc207 To PERU!

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    You will have a great ride South through the Huascaran. If you end up taking the Tunnel Punta Olimpica you can hike up to a glacial lake just above the tunnel. (See attached photo) My wife and I jumped over a few passes last year. If you're not in a hurry to get to Lima I have a fun challenging route from Chavin to Huanuco that would keep you off 3. Don't forget Toby at aroundtheblockmotoadventures.com if you need emergency parts. (Located in Huanuco) He may have or be able to source some parts for you. My wife and I also have an apartment in Lima (with secure parking)if you end up in an emergency. Ride safe and keep the pics coming! untitled-40.jpg



    *Chacas has a beautiful Hotel in the Mainsquare. Opposite the church on the corner. Can't recall the name.
  17. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    Pictures from today's unreal ride from Caraz Peru to Chacas on PE107 through Parque Nacional Hauscaran

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    Attached Files:

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  18. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    More from the ride, and a few pics from the center of Chacas

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  19. JimsBeemer

    JimsBeemer 2017 R1200GSA

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    We Loved Chacas! And that pass. I recognize the courtyard you are parked in; Carol and I stayed there with Chris and Sharon Struna for several days, about a month ago. There is a back road to Chavin, via 107, if you are so inclined. And I have to admit: we took a shared taxi from Caraz to Lake Parón, and I’m not apologizing for it! Was harrowing enough in the taxi . You get adv rider kudos for ridding up there on your bike.
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  20. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    thanks Jim. On the way up I was freaking amazed that small sedans and tour buses were utilizing that road. Several times, even after I stopped, I had to lean against the cliff to make room for the oncoming vehicle to pass.
    Well worth the 5 soles toll
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