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Cycle South 2020 / La segunda parte (bored AF in Joinville Brazil during Covid-19 spread)

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Ohio_Danimal, Apr 24, 2018.

  1. Sunday Rider

    Sunday Rider Adventurer Wanabe

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2010
    Oddometer:
    2,515
    Location:
    North of T.Ho., Ontario
    I thought it went like this; save your collectible cards over the years with your son, then sell them on eBay and partially fund a trip of a lifetime heading south. Nah that sounds like a scam. :clap
    Ohio_Danimal likes this.
  2. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,934
    Location:
    Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio (The Crooked River)
    964A95BA-3C0E-45F0-BACE-E6F9B4A7FF5A.jpeg B1BD5F7F-E5AD-4E4F-8E9C-92CD78B0E3EB.jpeg 0755E3B2-F348-45B8-A758-336EC3F1BDA2.jpeg What a brutal day today. One of the hardest of the journey.
    It was only 500 km, but immediately after leaving Puerto San Julian the infamous Patagonia winds started. And never abated.
    And I mean never. Thank God we were on pavement, riding mostly Ruta 3.
    At times, neck muscles already inflamed from non-stop winds from the East pounding my helmet, it would switch directions, throwing you into the next lane. Thank goodness no oncoming traffic coincided with each micro burst.
    And the oncoming trucks, aside from littering the side of Ruta 3 with pee bombs (empty soda bottles filled with urine), would pass by going wide open, and the resultant mix of winds would toss you around like a rag doll.
    A trip that Google maps said would take 5 hours took 8. And we even stopped at a YPF gas station in the freaking middle of nowhere to eat (excellent) empenadas de carne. There we met a large group of big ADV bikes and their two support vans doing a charity ride to Ushuaia and back, from Santiago. The men were all drooling over our contingent of filthy be-stickered bikes, as theirs were as spotless as their new matching riding suits.
    While sitting in front of the station chatting, I looked down at Sunny and saw that a nut on the front engine mount bolt (that also holds the front of her skid plate on) was missing altogether!! I had forgotten to tighten it when doing the repair in Ushuaia. One of the charity riders asked what was wrong as Olaf and I assessed the situation (I do have a bag of spare hardware but nothing big enough for that 14mm bolt) and I pointed it out.
    Minutes later their travel-mechanic brought over two coffee cans filled with hardware and within 5 minutes he and I tightened up the replacement nut! Love the Moto-community. I gladly gave up one of my now-growing-scarce Cycle South decals for their van.
    After that stop, incredibly, the winds increased.
    The remaining 200km or so was freaking icing on the brutality cake.
    Finally Ruta 3 parallels the ocean and we were treated to outstanding views. And man! The crowds on the various beaches were massive! Fishing, camping, playing. It was a sight to see!
    Finally we arrived at our destination, Moto-Posada Commodore Rivadavia, owned by Gustavo in Commodore Rivadavia Argentina. It’s nice enough and cheap.
    I’ll be here a few days. I have tasks, and need to rest as I’m fighting another sinus infection.
    I have a bunch of Chilean pesos to exchange to Argentine pesos at a Cambio (money exchange), need to get a prescription filled and do a few things on Sunny. She’s a trooper but the last few days she’s been ridden hard.
    Then we find out from our host that Carnival is taking place, and most ALL of everything is closed until Wednesday. Great!
    Maybe we will get to see some Carnival stuff tomorrow. Parades, whatever. So it might be a few days. I need cash as I’m running low.
    Right now our host is grilling meats for us! And I’m hungry. So there’s that lol.
    Tomorrow Djonas leaves as he needs to get to Buenos Aires for shipping his Tenere 660 back to Belgium. The rest of us will hang here a bit.
    No wifi here so am using data. The attached pics are me holding the campground dog last night I named Scruffy, a woman at the YPF today with a puppy, and the logo for the place we’re at tonight.
    Adios!
  3. poppawheelie

    poppawheelie Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,007
    Location:
    Central Pennsylvania
    Yar, I've never experienced wind like that in Patagonia. I knew to expect it from what I had read. The only time I was scared in Argentina and Chile was when I was certain the next gust of wind was going to pick me up off the ground and then slam me into it!
    That first picture, if you crop the left side you'll have a very nice portrait.
    So, you got a few days to relax. Too bad stores are closed, but someone's grilling meat for you, so you have that going for you, which is nice. :D
    Pete S and Ohio_Danimal like this.
  4. ScotsFire

    ScotsFire And then a drifter rode into town... Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2016
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    1,182
    Location:
    Here and there... but more there than here
    Takes one to know one.
    advrockrider and Ohio_Danimal like this.
  5. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,934
    Location:
    Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio (The Crooked River)
  6. poppawheelie

    poppawheelie Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,007
    Location:
    Central Pennsylvania
    PS regarding the wind. The book In Patagonia claims many early European settlers committed suicide because of the incessant wind, the howling noise and blowing sand into the cabin through even the tiniest crack. Have you noticed how the established estancias have cultivated rows of tree around the home and other buildings to break the wind?
    Ohio_Danimal likes this.
  7. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,934
    Location:
    Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio (The Crooked River)
    8736AE1E-C549-4EB7-8442-9384A47D577E.jpeg image.jpg
    It’s those estancias that always prompt an intercom link from Olaf....”Ver ist something up ahead to break zee vind” lol. There we pull over if the windbreak is available from the road, regardless of the depth of the ripio or the steepness of the incline leading to it. He smokes a cigarette and I usually have a snack and lay down a minute (to rest my back and alleviate my sciatic issue for a minute)
    Today wasn’t quite as bad, wind-wise.
    Still horrendous at times, but overall improving the further north we go. And today was yet another in a string of 400+km days, taking us away from the coast a bit and then back to the oceanfront at Puerto Madryn where we are now, staying (at least) two nights at Hostal El Gualicho. Nice place but a bit pricy (=$12US/noche) compared to our “standard “ mas economico limit. Still nice to have a bed as I’m still fighting a lingering sinus infection.
    The ride today was punctuated by areas of Ruta 3 that had DEEP grooves worn into (or sunken into) the pavement for both car-tire tracks. Your choice on a Moto? Either ride the groove, or try to stay on the hump between them. At 70mph that led to a few scary moments, but IMO still preferred to trying to ride a tire track through deep ripio (gravel).
    At times the wind was tailing, and holding 65-70mph required just a slight amount of throttle, and you were rewarded with near silence! I could again hear my motor humming, music in the helmet (today was a collection of classical music from the Anime series “Your lie in April”) and that’s with foam ear plugs inserted!
    Just past the city of Trelew there was a full-sized, oddly proportioned Brotosaurus by the road. Didn’t stop lol. But it was cool.
    Lunch was a hamburger at a YPF station.
    Tomorrow we visit the nearby Parque Nacional where a 5hour dirt road loop should show us lots of penguins, sea lions and such. Hopefully we’ll leave the luggage at the Hostal and do it “naked”. Sunny would like that.
    Also, am feeling some pulsing at the front brake lever. Took some time yesterday to sand the rotor and clean it, thinking it might be glazed. No improvement. So....the EBC front rotor I was so happy to find apparently has warped a bit. Still stops fine, but whaaaaaaaa!!! Maybe get a new one in Quito Ecuador at Moto Hell. It should make it to there no problem.
    If the wifi at the Hostal is any good, I’ll get some good pictures up soon.
    Enough rambling for now. I’m at a nearby beer joint enjoying their “Fuck IPA” pale ale. And some great papa fritas.
    Things could be worse.
  8. Klinc207

    Klinc207 To PERU!

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2015
    Oddometer:
    112
    Location:
    Up here or down there.
    884CA31D-CAF7-483D-9C94-2B3940A00796.jpeg

    Look what I found!
  9. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,934
    Location:
    Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio (The Crooked River)
    Yeah. Those JT sprocket stickers are all over lol
  10. Jay_In_Milpitas

    Jay_In_Milpitas Zero to sixty in February

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2016
    Oddometer:
    630
    Location:
    Milpitas, CA
    Okay Dan, please explain the numbers on the beer signs. Price is obvious, but not clear on the other two.
    Ohio_Danimal likes this.
  11. Tinfish

    Tinfish Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,107
    Location:
    Seattle
    Percent alcohol and IBUs -- see the small text just under the numbers.
    Ohio_Danimal likes this.
  12. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,934
    Location:
    Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio (The Crooked River)
    Somehow those number mean little at 1:33 when you’re still trying the various derivatives.

    what sinus infection lol?

    and...we found out the trip through the Parque is over 500 km, most on dirt. So that’s out, hence the willingness to abandon tomorrow’s plans and enjoy the nightlife a bit here.
    And the excellent cerveza
  13. Jay_In_Milpitas

    Jay_In_Milpitas Zero to sixty in February

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2016
    Oddometer:
    630
    Location:
    Milpitas, CA
    Thank you. I did not know those were letters, on my monitor they just look like fuzzy marks.
  14. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,934
    Location:
    Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio (The Crooked River)
    Hello all.
    I’m still in Puerto Madryn, nursing a little hangover, shooting 8-ball at the Hostal’s pool table, and drinking coffee and eating local bread with generous dollops of dulce de leche (I cannot believe it is not popular at home. It’s a spread made from sugar and milk reduced. Sometimes with cocoa).
    Earlier today, Djonas and Olaf went into town to try to get money from several Western Union outlets. Neither of which was successful. Neither want to get cash from. ATMs because of the outrageous fees charged (30+%). My debit account with Charles Schwab refunds all ATM fees monthly so it’s not been an issue with me so much, just the occasional ATM that just says it can’t process the withdrawal, while the next one works. They both need funds because Buenos Aires is where they all (including Sam) will crate and ship their bikes back to their homes in Belgium, Germany and England.
    Me? Again not an issue. I’m riding home.
    As today was the last day of the country’s Carnival celebration, nearly everything was closed again. Sam Mystery and me walked along the oceanfront a bit today looking for an Aduana where Sam needs to correct some details on his bike’s papers before the shipping company will accept his bike.
    There were lots of folks returning from whale-watching boat excursions. I’m trying to stop spending funds on that kind of thing. I’ll also start camping a lot more on the way back to reduce the $$. It’ll be sad to see everyone go. I consider them all good friends now. International motorcycle travel over time is addictive and you find common denominators easily with fellow travelers , but I have been lucky to come across such nice folks. Sergio and Kurt included.
    Olaf is wanting to ride with me a little longer into Brazil a bit to visit the world’s largest waterfall, Iguazu Falls. Then he’s going to backtrack back to Buenos Aires.
    For me, I think 4-5 months of moderate riding will put me back in Ohio. I am looking forward to seeing my family and some friends.
    Then the work/scheming/plans begin for the next departure. Not sure where yet. Maybe by then the Coronavirus will have settled down and areas in Asia will be opened up again for travel. It would suck to get stuck somewhere due to border closures.

    Pictures are from the waterfront here today.

    Tomorrow, with the holiday over, the Cambio (money exchange) will be open for me to exchange my Chilean pesos into usable currency, Olaf to (hopefully) get his funds from Western Union and Sam to get his paperwork for exporting his bike corrected. I think Djonas will no matter what take off as his schedule to ship the bike is firm and known.

    I’m fine with staying here another day, but if things go well, we will ride tomorrow towards Buenos Aires. Maybe a 5 hr ride or so.


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    elron, mrfishingrod, Cro59 and 13 others like this.
  15. qman8

    qman8 15 GSA / 16 WR250R

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,534
    Location:
    ohio
    Iguazzu is definitely something not to be missed. Take the boat ride up into the falls if possible. Incredible. Punta del.Este should be rocking this time of year but probably $$. That beach is huge! you can ride on the playa for many miles around there! Please keep a keen eye out for Capaburro and Coati. Florianopolis is a kewl town to check out. Porto Alegre on the other hand should be avoided. Huge town with huge traffic. Also don't miss the 438 road to Bom Jardim do Serra. Edit...Google maps shows the road as SC-390.
  16. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,934
    Location:
    Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio (The Crooked River)
    We are here in Puerto Madryn another day.
    Most of the town’s internet is down. Western Union for Olaf? Down.
    Bancos y Cambio ? Down.
    At least Sam found a new chain for his bike and is installing it now. The computer at the Aduana he needed to correct his export papers?
    You guessed it lol. Down.
    Djonas did leave today, so safe travels my friend. It was good to get to know you.
    I took advantage of the extra day and did all my laundry. It’s drying now. Yay! No more stink for now.
  17. powderzone

    powderzone Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2016
    Oddometer:
    749
    Location:
    Calgary
    I worked in the region during the mid-90's roaming between Comodoro Rivadavia and Rio Gallegos...interesting to note that the telecom infrastructure hasn't improved much over the last 25 years.
    We ended up installing a satellite on the roof since we couldn't rely on the wired comms. On more than a few occasions, the dish would end up somewhere in the Atlantic.
    I imagine the telephone wires suffered a similar fate.
    Man...the wind...unrelenting.
  18. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2009
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    Location:
    Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio (The Crooked River)
    The woman at the Cambio told me a main fiber optic line had been damaged and the city was routing as much as they could via dish to compensate. We’re going back to Western Union shortly to try again to get Olaf’s dinero.
    I’m sure the wind had something to do with the damage.
  19. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,934
    Location:
    Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio (The Crooked River)
    Well, this morning the city was reconnected to the interwebz.
    Olaf got his money!
    Sam got his import/export documents corrected!
    I still couldn’t find a bank that’ll exchange the CP for either AP or USD. I’m hopeful that I’ll find a bank in Buenos Aires that’ll do it.

    Olaf and I are camping in La Adela Argentina tonight
    BillUA, poppawheelie, MrMac and 3 others like this.
  20. Drybones

    Drybones Fish bones are on my truck seat cover, too

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2007
    Oddometer:
    350
    Location:
    Oro Valley, AZ near 77
    Dan, you are in La Adela :hide! I could not find La Adena and had to use your Spot tracker to find you LOL Good thing I'm a reliable follower – and don't hesitate to message me if you need anything that I can help with.
    Ohio_Danimal likes this.