Cycle South 2020! La segunda parte (now in Puerto Montt Chile)

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Ohio_Danimal, Apr 24, 2018.

  1. Spanner Bonobo

    Spanner Bonobo Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    I just picked up this thread two days ago, and have been through the lot. I like the way you've presented your trip. Having recently returned to the UK after 30 yrs in Ohio, it's a trip I never managed to find time for. Pathetic excuse! I was trying to calculate how many times I would have dropped my 1290 by now. A lot I reckon. Thanks for the fantastic report. Cheers!
    Ohio_Danimal likes this.
  2. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio (The Crooked River)
    Meet my savior Katrina Corcoran!

    The rotor is here. And it’s mounted. And bled. And appears to be good.

    So tonight is (another) celebration!!

    Carne!
    Vino!
    Cerveza!

    And stories from the road.

    Mucho gracias mi amiga!





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  3. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

    Joined:
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    2783FC46-6603-4B50-967C-6E9FA3A7D1BD.jpeg 63CECE19-2CF9-4710-9E80-91CB4E8B12A3.jpeg 8D903159-A3CB-4E1A-986C-32EA3CCA5113.jpeg 85A35FEE-A4E4-40BB-B16F-2890C310EC94.jpeg 0498D22F-1937-4F93-B1F5-DB834C5AC86D.jpeg Today was tough.
    Needed to wake up by 10 to be able to see Katrina off. She’s headed towards Buenas Aires where her bike will be shipped to the UAE where she resides.
    Problem was, last night was yet another night of drinking and eating and playing liar’s dice (mi partido favorito) until after 4am.
    So I got up. Forced myself into clothes. Stumbled out into the Hostal into a chorus of “Buene dia Daniel” from a dozen people.
    Ugggghhh. The coffee was served. Dulce de leche cookies. Whatever lol. The sun was too bright. Conversations too loud. Even Katrina’s smile brought little solace. Too mas alcol.
    Then, as noon approached it was clear that being a Saturday, the whole town shuts down at noon, and on Saturday MAYBE reopens at five.
    And I needed work.
    Wanted the rear MotoZ tire removed and the plug pulled and the tire patched from inside.
    I also needed to find a place to change my oil.
    Kurt’s KLR with brand new tires had a rear flat!
    So after a phone call they (shop that did his tire install) agreed to look at it.
    I figured they could also do my tire and perhaps let me change the oil there too.
    So Kurt and I saddled up and rode across town to the shop.
    No......they actually said no to looking at his flat! And they said they don’t repair tubeless tires! So they gave me directions to another nearby shop that did. While Kurt tried to negotiate a compromise, I rode to the other shop.
    Great guys! He had my tire off, repaired and reinstalled in 10 minutes! He gave me a drain pan and tools and let me change the oil (Motul 15w-50 full synthetic). As I was wrapping up Kurt rides up a says the other shop told him no as well. So the good guys helped Kurt too. Pulled the rear tube, installed a new tube and patched the one the other shop pinched and reinstalled it.
    My cost equaled $4.85 US TOTAL!!
    Kurt paid a whopping $5.50!!
    Then back to the Hostal where Olaf was finishing the front end rebuild on his Africa Twin. All this in high heat (89 degrees high humidity).
    Then the rest of the day was a blur of organizing tools and repacking our loads.
    For those that liked the styling of Sunny,
    Please excuse that I removed the fork shrouds and front rotor cover I’ve had on since the start. My thinking is that due to the brake rotor issues, I’d like for more cooling air to reach my front brake. I’m leaving the shroud here as a memento at the Hostal lol!
    Finally dinner and a box of wine.
    Tomorrow we leave. South towards San Carlos de Los Bariloche. All four amigos together still (Olaf’s German friend Markus got a rental car and is off in his own now) and looking forward to more adventures.

    thanks everyone for the support and positive words recently. During times of challenge, it means a lot.
    mrfishingrod, Gordon, elron and 23 others like this.
  4. qman8

    qman8 15 GSA / 16 WR250R

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    Glad you're back in running order Dan! Safe travels! But you're in the heart of wine country and you're drinking from a box??? I'd figure "Cardboardeaux" was beneath them in that area!?
  5. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    If you saw the number of empty wine bottle we’ve created it’d boggle your brain Q.
    Lately we have gone cheap and have tasted excellent local boxed wine. And it’s sometimes cheaper than bottled water !
    qman8 and OH_Wahoo like this.
  6. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    ACC5A4BC-884D-4497-9482-0DD9BFFB6D5A.jpeg 1558769B-85AB-492F-8F0A-17F801C824BA.jpeg 6CC600CB-46A5-4370-925C-EA2E309E857B.jpeg We made it to Malargue Argentine in a downpour with large hail. We’re at the Eco Hostel just out of town (nice place)

    Upon arrival in town we stopped for gas, where I discovered a flat front tire. As we had protection from the sun, I started the tube replacement. Then the skies opened up and the entire time the repair took place it rained and hailed like hell. When it let up we headed to one of the three Hostals recommended by iOverlander (Kathmandu Hostal) but they asked for a 25% cost increase over the iOverlander cost from less than four weeks ago.
    Yo mas barato. So we left. And rode out of town and down a 2.5km dirt road in rain that suddenly restarted to Eco Hostel where we are now.

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  7. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    We never stopped for food for dinner.
    The Hostel only serves desayuno (breakfast)

    So we huddled together and scraped the bottom of our panniers and top cases and came up with:
    • Two cans of atun (tuna)
    • Half a pouch of mayonaisia
    • Two packages of assorted soup mixes (alphabet pasta and rice)
    • Two different pastas
    • Four hamburger buns
    • Two large potatoes
    • Three cloves of garlic
    • Sal y pimiento

    The potatoes were parboiled. The soup mixes added along with additional rice and pasta. Sal y pimiento.
    The result was four thick tuna salad sandwiches and a gallon or so of soup.
    Esta delicioso.

    And a hidden surprise!


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  8. Jay_In_Milpitas

    Jay_In_Milpitas Zero to sixty in February

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    Nice dinner collaboration. Make sure everyone hits a store to stock up emergency grub tomorrow.
    You didn't mention if you found the cause for the flat front.
  9. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    I found a small hole dead center 12” from the valve. Nothing visible inside the tire or visible puncture mark on the outside.
    Shrugged my shoulder and patched the tube for a spare. I did carefully check inside the tire (as did Olaf)
  10. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

    Joined:
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    If you’re enjoying following along on my journey, please take a moment and make the selection to follow me!

    You’ll received notifications on updates, and it will help me in determining changes needed to make it a better blog!
    Mucho gracias!
  11. roadcapDen

    roadcapDen Ass, Grass or Gas, no free rides.

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    Still here and you have +2,500 hits on this RR.

    I don't think you can make it better...!:photog
    Ohio_Danimal likes this.
  12. Drybones

    Drybones Fish bones are on my truck seat cover, too

    Joined:
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    Oro Valley, AZ near 77
    The only thing I can think of that you could do better is to hold your phone horizontal when recording video ;) No one has done a better job of chronicling their adventure travel in real-time – although there are a few that are equally good.
  13. Pete S

    Pete S Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2018
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    126
    Location:
    Portland, ME
    Dan,

    I haven't commented in quite a while, because I didn't have much to add, but I've been enjoying your writing and photography immensely. I really like your openness and your generally upbeat attitude. I just started riding late in 2017. I've done a few 2000 mile trips since then, but probably started seriously thinking about going on an extended trip about a year ago. Well, I'll shortly be joining the ranks of the formerly employed. I gave notice that I would be leaving my job last week, and that I was just planning on traveling. HU Virginia the end of April, heading west from there, up to Alaska, then back to Maine for a bit before HU Newfoundland. My hope is to get my house rented or sold about that same time, then head down to Mexico, and eventually further south. Your trip has been a big inspiration.

    One of the advrider postings that I reread every now and then is from @LoneStar, where he makes a convincing argument for doing what you're doing, and getting past your fears to make it happen:

    If I say no, I walk down one path. If I say yes, I walk down another. Been down too many "no" paths that led to complacency and life in invisible prisons.
    That's where I've been, in an invisible prison, a job I don't like, just kind of going through the motions of life. So, it's time for a change. Thanks for all of the insight you've provided.

    Pete
  14. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Thanks man. I’m finding it hard the last few days to post extensively as they have been so tiring. I do appreciate the thoughts. Hopefully within the next week we’ll stay put a day or so and I can dump the Nikon pics to you folks.
    There are many good ones in that memory card. The scenery since Mendoza just keep getting better and better.

    John, I’ll try some horizontally formatted video soon. Glad you’re still with me!

    Pete, Joseph was also a key player that helped my decision to cash in and leave.
    There were other factors for sure concerning the state of affairs in my country that made it an easy (and correct) choice to GTFO lol.
    Here’s hoping your next steps and the resultant journey are based upon all those “yes” choices. You have nothing to fear but fear itself.

    it’s 11:18 pm here in Chos Malal Argentina.
    Today was perhaps the most tiring day so far for me (and two of mi amigos as well).
    No sooner did we pull out of the Hostel in Malargue and point our wheels south on Ruta 40 that the road turned to crap. Multiple signs reporting “Ripio profunda a continuacion 115km” (deep gravel next 115 km) were posted as the once-paved road slowly at first and then suddenly changed to crap. Remembering what I’ve been taught (and watched as Olaf flew down impossibly-gnarly sand, dirt and gravel) I got off the seat, moved my ass back towards my topcase and pinned it. The first few km were the worst, causing Olaf and I in the lead to literally “swim” as Olaf calls it. Front and rear wheel cutting arcs in the deep ripio. When one washout leads into another deep section, briefly grabbing hard throttle to get the rear to dig and push, raising the front up and acting like the rudder on a ship.
    Today though, it just kept coming. And coming.
    Added to this was the near-zero visibility caused when a vehicle (usually Land Rovers or large Overland vehicles) came the other way. Riding along through the hardest terrain I’ve encountered at 50-60mph and then entering a blind cloud of dust and sand was harrowing, exhilarating, scary and downright adrenaline-filled. And it just kept coming.
    Insane scenery was ignored as I tried to focus on not going down. And I didn’t!! But...came very close...at speed....so many times I lost count.
    During one such vehicle encounter, Olaf sped past me to get out of my dust storm that was adding to his difficulties and I saw him almost bite it hard. Incredible recovery. A little while longer, right as I could feel shoulder and neck muscles tightening, I thought I needed a rest. As I came around a rising bend, there was Olaf’s 1998 Africa Twin parked off the road and Olaf sitting on a boulder smoking a cigarette. I stopped and walked to him and collapsed in the sand. After a short while Kurt pulls in on his KLR and a bit thereafter Sergio on his XRE300.
    No one went down! All had come close many times!
    We started south again, passing a group of Argentinian riders in Benelli TRK502’s who were resting in a shaded arroyo. Waves exchanged, we goosed it to make a rise that was punctuated by terrible washboard ripples.
    Another 20km and we were looking for shade. A small patch of shade by a cattle fence was secured as another rider on a KTM 690 enduro pulled in going the other direction, to refill his little tank from a large Rotopax. We chatted and he told us the pavement restarted in another 15km. Joy!
    But as soon as the pavement began, fatigue quickly set in. It was I think the second time I woke up in the other lane at 65mph that I knew we were playing with fire. Olaf and I found an open tienda in a village that otherwise was closed for siesta. Kurt and Sergio arrived and we ate snacks, drank cokes and Redbulls and then took a 45 min power nap in a small children’s playground. Olaf and Sergio also admitted to nodding off and needing to rest.
    Our destination Hostal was now only 90km away and we flew along trying to beat fatigue that began again to manifest itself.
    Arriving at the Hostal we found no one there. None of us had cell coverage to call the number on the door. Sergio arrived, went to another Hostel to use their wifi and called the hostess. She arrived 10 minutes later and checked us in. Showers and then POW. All out cold.
    Now it’s time to take a walk and see what’s around. Argentina lives late. Midnight is like noon.
    Tomorrow we continue south!
  15. Cal

    Cal Long timer

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    Dan nice write up on the deep gravel travel. The last part of the Dempster has a lot of deep new gravel sections so I kind of know how you feel. My first encounter with deep sand was in Nicaragua going into a town I do not remember, it was just a short section of about 5 km.....but it was all down hill, theres nothing like pinning the throttle going down hill with other cars on the road driving slow!! keep on keeping on.
    Joris van O and Ohio_Danimal like this.
  16. poppawheelie

    poppawheelie Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Central Pennsylvania
    Ah, you're bringing back memories of riding the infamous Ruta 40 on my KLR. :p3rry My secret unspoken goal was to not fall, as most others in our group did, and I did it! Not fall, that is. :-) May you do the same. My scariest moments were when a large truck would approach from the other direction, and I would be locked in a deep rut, the same rut that his left wheels were in. I'd sit back, gas it and get the wheels over the berm into another rut farther to the right. Good luck. Watch out for the wind too, which can knock you over. It was so strong that if you parked your bike with the sidestand on the windward side, it would blow the bike over. Ha! Enjoy.
    Another memory - how the Argentine's are out and about very late, like midnight is equal to our 12 noon.
    Also, liked your DR650 soup!
    Ohio_Danimal likes this.
  17. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    I hit the dirt today.

    We entered the Patagonia Region today. And the infamous winds were there waiting.
    Thank God Ruta 40 was paved and fairly smooth, but being only two-lanes, it was difficult as hell to stay in our lane. Gusts hitting you broadside and changing directions constantly. It was very difficult riding and extremely tiring.
    Couldn’t hear music as the helmet only transmitted wind sounds, even with foam hearing protection. At one stop, we saw two semi trucks pulled over at a small side strip, doing an oil change. We used their trucks (with the driver’s approval) as a wind break for a rest. The boys smoked cigs and I took the chance to remove the off-road-oriented bill on my helmet, as it was making my neck sore catching wind gusts and snapping my head side to side. Riding with the smooth shape helped a little. For a while.
    Then just when you thought it couldn’t possibly get worse, it got worse.
    Every time a gust grabbed me and tossed me left and right 2-3 feet, I would correct and then over-correct. It was, quite literally, insane.
    Olaf and I were out front, me leading the pack all day. I contacted Olaf on the intercom to ask if he was OK as I saw him get hit by the same gust that nearly ripped the handlebars from my hands. He quickly cussed some bad German words and said he needed a break. Now.
    So a bit later there was a small shack by the road. With a dirt entrance road. We pulled in and turned around. Olaf got his side stand down and as I watched his bike heave side to side, wondering if his bike would stay put, when a gust hit me right to left. I hadn’t put my side stand down yet. I braced both legs to the ground when a stronger gust hit me left to right, quickly knocking me and the bike to the ground. The freaking wind was so strong, when I hit the ground it kept pushing me an rolled me 10-15 feet from Sunny, now laying on her side.
    Olaf was there to help in a split second, first helping me up and then helping me lift Sunny upright and finding a place where she was resting safe.
    End result is a slightly sprained wrist for me, and a bent luggage rack for Sunny. Adds patina lol. Wrist should be fine. Just sore when rotating. Can grasp firmly without pain.
    Again, due to the challenging conditions, few pictures.
    Now we’re in Junin de Los Andes eating dinner. Hostel is ok. Good friends and companionship make up for any and all shortcomings.
    None of the ATMs will work for me. I’m out of cash, so Olaf is now floating me money.
    What goes around comes around
  18. Sunday Rider

    Sunday Rider Adventurer Wanabe

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    I am picking sand out of my teeth just reading that post. Glad you survived this windy episode without too much damage. I don't know how you had the energy to post, but thanks for the update! Hope you get some rest and a lucky ATM.
    ScotsFire likes this.
  19. Drybones

    Drybones Fish bones are on my truck seat cover, too

    Joined:
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    Oro Valley, AZ near 77
    Too gnarly for this old rider! I'm glad you hooked up with riding buddies.
  20. Jay_In_Milpitas

    Jay_In_Milpitas Zero to sixty in February

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    Feb 25, 2016
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    602
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    Milpitas, CA
    So Patagonia blows. M-kay.
    Sunday Rider likes this.