Cycle South 2020 / La segunda parte (now in Ushuaia Tierra del Fuego Argentina)

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Ohio_Danimal, Apr 24, 2018.

  1. scurry0

    scurry0 Adventurer

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    Dan, look up MotoParagonia. He , Daniel, is near Puerto Varas and has a rental fleet and mechanic. Maybe he can assist.
  2. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    It was Daniel that Olaf got his rear tire from, and it was Daniel that suggested Motos JV as the place to go to get the sprockets.
    So thanks but we’re already connected
  3. GSABest

    GSABest El Aventurero

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    Dan, if you have time while in Puerto Montt and are looking for some good seafood, try Restaurant El Apa. Ate there twice and enjoyed it both times. It's on the pier at Mercado de Angelmo.
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  4. jaratr

    jaratr Without a ride

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    It's peculiar, interesting, how different similar paths to and through SA can be. I've been following this report, and Jeremy Kroeker's and Elle West's progress (now in Peru). Also funny to see how differently people perceive the 'world'.

    You can keep up at Canada Moto Guide, Adventure Rider Radio and Jeremy posts on Twitter a lot. Seriously, go back and read Dan's posts on Peru and compare the two experiences just a few months apart. I love this stuff. Thanks Dan for dragging us desk monkey's along.
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  5. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    I’ll take that as a compliment lol, because of a lot of “less than positive” things said about Peru from multiple Moto-travelers I’ve encountered down here. I loved the country and completely understood why I was looked at and treated like an alien at times. It’s because I was to those folks in the high-Andes villages. That too will change as they become familiar with seeing more motorcycles loaded down and men over six foot riding them.

    I’ve received a few messages from Elle and it’d be cool to meet her!

    I’m glad you’re along for the ride jaratr! FE163054-EFBD-4216-B954-57D8C5EF771C.jpeg 666AA25A-E074-4A18-88B9-D12A012AFFB4.jpeg 25982FD1-F1AB-4117-A3B3-F26B61F22773.jpeg


    Olaf’s sprockets arrived at Motos JV today and when picking them up it was noticed the front sprocket was wrong.
    They had a large assortment of other fronts, and Olaf found an exact match in stock! Turns out it was meant for a newer model Africa Twin. So both of his sprockets can be replaced now.
    We took off from Puerto Montt and rode south on Ruta 7 to La Arena where we caught the short ferry to Caleta Puelche. We rode south on 7 to Hornopiren, where we are now in a Hostal.
    Tomorrow at 8am we get to Transportes Austral’s office and get in line for the 9am ferry(s) that take us from Hornopiren to Leptepu (3 hrs 45 min long) where we disembark and ride 10k on Ruta 7 to a second hour long ferry from Leptepu to Caleta Gonzalo. Our plan is to ride south another 70k to Chaiten, where we’ll find a room or camp.
    More stunning scenery today in the fiords of Patagonia!
  6. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    We’re gone!
    And aside from a few empenadas, our meals there were made in the Hostal. Yo mas barato!
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  7. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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  8. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    78590F95-D599-4FED-91B2-EB35B7F7321C.jpeg 23A9D198-D4FC-41F1-9918-2AF5A9CA0C9C.jpeg 1A13853F-B0A6-4F1C-8E9B-12CF6F72EF2C.jpeg It was a long morning here in Hornopirén Chile trying to get passage south.
    When we arrived yesterday the office for Transporte Austal (one of two companies running ferrys south from Hornopirén to Caleta Gonzalo) was closed. They have the early 9:30 am ferry. Checking online for two days prior with them and Somarco (the other company) revealed that ferrys were booked wayyyyy out. But repeated discussion showed that often they allow last-minute motorcycle travellers to fill space at the end.
    So the first tickets we could buy were for tomorrow’s 9:30 passage from TC. Then, as the 9:30 for today (sold out) was loading, we were told by the Loadmaster to have our tickets changed to today’s date at the office behind us and we could enter!
    I quickly had new tickets printed in my hand. We were on our bikes. Mine running. Then at the last minute a group of Motos pulled up, all with tickets. They of course were allowed to board and Olaf and I denied.
    Back to the Hostal, where the owner made us an incredible fish dinner. Then a shower and a walk to the pier for more coffee and lemon pie (a local specialty). Now a few beers, some Chilean chocolate con mani and an early bed. We have to be at the dock at 8:30 to start loading. Tomorrow nights goal is camping a bit past Chaiten in Ruta 7. That’s after 5-1/2 hrs on a ferry and a 100 km ride.
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  9. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    7C419944-5C2D-4192-B5D3-6004368F73C5.jpeg A220A648-DB4A-4D9F-A7E6-5AFD7BABA68D.jpeg Am beat. ‘Twas a long day.
    An early arrival at the pier and loaded and underway on the Hornopiren—>Caleta Gonzalo ferry.
    Beautiful skies and weather for the 4’45” voyage. Decent cheap coffee and lemon pie on board as well as places to stretch out.
    Upon disembarking, Ruta 7 turned to heavy ripio and stayed that way for 40km. Lots of zero visibility areas with dust clouds from passing busses and trucks (one bus driver almost took out Olaf). Then, right before Chaiten the road turned to fresh pavement and the rain started. And the temps plummeted.
    We stopped to change into warmer drier gear and then continued on. Our original goal of camping faded away as the rain refused to let up. Upon reaching La Junta we found a Hostal and climbed out of our wet gear and found a restaurant and had food and beers.
    As we were arriving, we received messages from Sergio and Kurt saying that they stayed put today due to heavy rains. When we plugged their location into Google Maps were we’re surprised that they’re only 45 minutes south from us in a campground! So we will get an early start and meet them there. Then the Gang of Four is back baby!
  10. Ian.H

    Ian.H Adventurer

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    Looks like you are one day ahead of me now. I'm in a nice Cabina in Hornopiren having been down to the Somarco office and bought tickets for tomorrow 12:30 sailing.

    By the way....when you've been crossing in and out of Argentina have the Argentina customs guys been asking you proof of insurance before they let you in?
  11. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    I've heard of other's being asked, but I haven't been asked myself. We are going pretty slow, so hopefully you'll catch up.

    Hola de Patagonia en el Region de Coyhaique!
    Yesterday was a picture-perfect day weather-wise, as we'll be needed all the good karma we can get, as reports first-hand to us from Moto-travelers heading north from Ushuaia haven't been good. Warning-level winds and deep ripio (gravel) for nearly 80km north of Tres Lagos on Ruta 40 back in Argentina have us concerned. One Africa Twin rider and his wife just were there three days ago and they crashed twice and saw innumerable motos laying on their side with an injured rider or no rider at all visible. He reported to us ripio that is over 20 cm deep in places and winds that literally shift you sideways in the gravel as you try to steer straight. Hopefully the prior crazy winds we've already seen have us somewhat prepared.
    We are looking at other options as well including heading further south in Chile on Ruta 7 (Carretara Austral) towards Villa O'Higgens (the end of Ruta 7, normally requiring a 250 km backtrack to Ruta 265, the first East-West road heading back into Argentina heading north from O'Higgens) and picking up a 41 hour ferry that'll drop us near Torres del Paine, bypassing that stretch of Ruta 40 that's such an issue right now. We will see!
    Tonight we're at a nice campground with covered areas for the tents with a huge wall for a windbreak, as it's starting to get windy AF again, as the dense forests thin out.
    The Wifi is good here, and there are plenty of charge outlets and we all need to get things charged up. The 20,000 mah power bank I brought has proven invaluable but it needs brought back from the dead now.
    While camping yesterday my kickass custom gasoline-burning camp stove failed. The teeny o-rings in the valve failed and it spewed gasoline all over the fuel line. I HAD a repair kit for the stove (as well as a titanium cookware set and assorted spices) that were left in a Hostal many weeks ago. I have some cheapo silverware now, but no way of repairing the stove. So toady for $28 I bought a small gas stove and gas canister, that should last me quite a while. I've seen gas canisters available all over SA. Now I'm trying to decide whether or not to chuck the old stove and windscreen setup into a trash bin rather than cart it around. I was so proud of that stove. Maybe I'll carry it a while and try to find o-rings that fit in an auto-repair shop or somewhere, At least I can cook again.
    On to the pictures. The next large group of pictures constitute my travels from Barliloche to here just south of Coyhaique Chile (which, by the way, shows serious damage from protests. Lots of ACAB grafitti and burned out buildings)
    Next up, PICTURES!...YAY!....everyone loves pictures!
  12. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    At "the House Hostel" in Bariloche, at their Friday night party

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    This is the kind of shot the Nikon bridge series of cameras are famous for

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    The border between Argentina and Chile was closed for almost 4 hours due to a computer being down
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    Another Cycle South tag!
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  13. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    Dueling volcanoes

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    It was cold and windy. We stopped at this cafe in the middle of nowhere. Best coffee in weeks! And Ewan and Charlie were there just a month prior filming "Long Way Up"
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    The first short ferry that Olaf and I took trying to catch up to Sergio and Kurt. This one from Sector Caleta La Arena to Caleta Puelche
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  14. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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  15. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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  16. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    Look carefully....a dolphin fin!

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    This picture was taken at 2pm...cold, dark and wet


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    Glacial melt
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  17. Sunday Rider

    Sunday Rider Adventurer Wanabe

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    You are right we love pictures and especially these. Hope the next leg is less troublesome than anticipated. Sending good vibes your way.
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  18. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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  19. Tinman Tim

    Tinman Tim Adventurer

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    Three photos up....
    Best picture of this entire RR.
    Color, clarity, proportion, and of course content!
    Keep it up Dan
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  20. poppawheelie

    poppawheelie Been here awhile

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    The Caratera Austral has incredible scenery and trees and plants probably unlike anything you've ever seen.
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