Cyclops Adventure Sports- Performance lighting, TPMS, Rally kits, etc. merge thread

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by Off Road Ryder, Nov 5, 2012.

  1. Yellow Pig

    Yellow Pig Allergic to asphalt! Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2004
    Oddometer:
    9,811
    Location:
    Thousand Oaks, CA
    What about #3

    3- Is the PWM integrated dimming circuit built into the lights or is it external, kind of like a Skene dimmer?
  2. Rharr

    Rharr Long timer

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2014
    Oddometer:
    1,001
    Location:
    Tucson Az
    About to install one of these H4 LEDS on my CRF450x, anyone know if I can wire it up to run both High and Low at the same time when I switch to the high circuit? Will it burn the bulb up? I will be running a dual sport control switch with both high and low options and will need to basically rewire the headlight circuit to take advantage of the high/low function and could wire it either as low off, high on. Low on, high off. Or low on, high on.

    Thoughts?
  3. don07tncav

    don07tncav Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2013
    Oddometer:
    14
    Installed a set in my 2012 DL1000 Vstrom for off road use of course. This shot is of one of the LED's installed along with a stock bulb.

    Attached Files:

  4. don07tncav

    don07tncav Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2013
    Oddometer:
    14
    The install was very simple, reach in, take off the rubber cover, pull the old bulb, cut the rubber to fit the fan then install the LED bulb. Took less than 1/2 an hour. Here's how the new LED's lit up my barn....excuse the mess.....

    Attached Files:

  5. don07tncav

    don07tncav Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2013
    Oddometer:
    14
    Took a shot outside. Can't wait to see how they work in the fall when it's dark during my commute to and from work.

    Attached Files:

  6. KL_ARRR

    KL_ARRR Adventure Piggy

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    692
    Location:
    Central NJ
    2011 KLR Light pattern, same camera settings

    Low Beam:
    [​IMG]

    High Beam:
    [​IMG]
  7. Trail Joe

    Trail Joe Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2011
    Oddometer:
    19
    Location:
    Washington
    No problems with the LED. On high it uses all 3 leds and on low it uses the lower 2. Should work out just like you want it to.
  8. 1WD_RV

    1WD_RV n00b

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2012
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA
    Thumbs up after installing the H4 3600 lumen Cyclops in my WR tonight...

    Removed the headlamp housing from the bike and the install was smooth. Getting the retaining clips off the original H4 halogen (under the rubber boot) was a bit fiddly... Then inserted the new H4 metal insert, clipped it in w/ factory clips, inserted the LED lamp into the H4 insert and installed it's set screw. I used a little teflon tape on the set screw to perhaps help keep it from vibrating out. Given I couldn't re-use the rubber boot from the Halogen lamp (because of the LED cooling fan), I used some aluminum foil duct tape to seal off the opening in the round lamp-housing cavity the bulb sits inside. The "bulge" for the cooling fan was just above the top of the cavity my bulb sat inside... so I layered a few pieces of tape above the clip & below the fan... wrapping it down around the outside of the round cavity, then wrapped a zip-tie over top of the tape on the outside of the housing cavity for good measure. Re-assembled on the bike, zip-tied the new light cords in place, and went for a test ride after dark...

    Outcome: I like the light - it throws a nice light pattern with distinctly more light than the halogen, but which didn't seem to bother other drivers. I feel better equipped for the night!
  9. Lensgrinder

    Lensgrinder Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,533
    Location:
    San Marcos, California
    I just installed one in my wife's 2009 650 twin and my 2012 1200 GSA.
    The H7 unit fit just fine.

    What I did to get the clip fastened after removing the old bulb was loosen the screw on the right side holding the pivot side of the retaining clip so I could remove the clip completely.

    Slide the clip on to the new bulb, plug in the connectors then slip the connectors and the wires into the housing.

    Hook the two looped ends of the clip on the left side first, then with a screw driver push the pivoting side of the clip so you can grip it with needle nose pliers, then push under the head of the screw and into the slot and tighten the screw.

    Be sure to position the leads out of the bulb at 12 o'clock, I couldn't get the cover on if it was at 6 o'clock position.

    After reading a few more posts I realize I need to drill vent holes which will be easy enough.

    The light works great, Brown headlight lead is ground, yellow is hot.
    Richard
  10. SDIZZY

    SDIZZY Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2014
    Oddometer:
    498
    Location:
    RI
    Looking good on the DR
    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. dvfisher

    dvfisher Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    55
    Location:
    Valcartier,QC, Canada
    Regarding the 650 twin, as the headlight is vented if you don't drill holes in the plastic cover do you think enough air will pass through the vent hole to provide sufficient cooling?
  12. Lensgrinder

    Lensgrinder Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,533
    Location:
    San Marcos, California
    I can't answer that definitively,

    I just drilled about four or five small holes(about 2mm dia.) from the about the 3:30 position to about the 8:30 position, so they were on the bottom side of the cover fairly protected from the elements.

    A new cap was only about $6 U.S. for my GSA which I replaced because I had drilled the original for my HID set up that is now removed, I can't see the cap for the twin being much more than that if at all.
    Richard
  13. Arcwn

    Arcwn Wheeeeeeee

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2013
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    ND RRV
    Well, the H4 worked out great in the Harley. I only had to trim the dust boot a little bit, but as others have stated the H7s are a no-go in a KLR without cutting.
    The neck of the module would need to be at least a 1/4" longer to fit without modifications.
  14. WindSailor

    WindSailor Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2008
    Oddometer:
    795
    Location:
    Somewhere out West
    Great news.
    Did you install both the low and the beam?
    High beam is a little bit tighter....

    Sent from my Samsung Note 3
  15. Lensgrinder

    Lensgrinder Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,533
    Location:
    San Marcos, California
    No, just the low beam, With my OEM high beam and my LED aux. lights there is plenty.

    As a side note, we just rode home after the ball game and I really like the pattern it throws.

    The HID was very bright but the pattern was scattered
    Richard
  16. WindSailor

    WindSailor Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2008
    Oddometer:
    795
    Location:
    Somewhere out West
    Thanks for the feedback.

    I'll more than likely order one.

    There is something a little worrisome about 23000 volts that 'could' effect other items if something goes wrong. I really like the idea of getting rid of the HID and going with the LED Light.

    Rick



    Sent from my Samsung Note 3
  17. Lensgrinder

    Lensgrinder Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,533
    Location:
    San Marcos, California
    I'm sure the HID has it's potential problems as well(mine was from 1 Off motorsports who did it right), but the canbus would shut the system down if it goes outside of programmed parameters.

    I believe Cyclops went to a lot of trouble to test and use quality components because his reputation is at stake and it seems very important to him.

    I'm very happy with it so far.
    Richard
  18. planemanx15

    planemanx15 Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,027
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    I had a cheap Chinese made HID unit shock me when I was touching the ballast.... Wasn't fun!! Trashed it before it could damage anything on my bike.
  19. DirtJack

    DirtJack Adventurer Supporter

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,328
    Location:
    395 miles South East of Orla, Texas
    I think the integrated PWM is to protect the LED emitter from overheating, not dimming. You'll likely want to have an external device, such as the Skene, for dimming.
  20. Rharr

    Rharr Long timer

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2014
    Oddometer:
    1,001
    Location:
    Tucson Az
    Here are my results for my CRF450x (posted on thumpertalk too)

    So I decided to give the cyclops LED bulb a shot. Wired it up last night wired it to a tusk control switch I had for the horn button. Now I have off, high and low even though high doesn't really make a difference. Low by it's self is good enough. The end result: I am now able to see much better at night, I can actually see what is in front of me, granted it's no baja light but it's good enough for the occasional stuck on the trail at night or running around the road at night. I am running a stock stator and it does dim a bit at high revs but not enough to impact drive ability. I do need to call cyclops to make sure the fluctuating power won't damage the LED system. I'll report back what I find. The LED system does draw 20 watts on Low and 30 watts on High which is still lower then the stock incandescent bulb. If i have to i'll get a BD stator setup if i find the fluctuations are a problem.

    Here are some photos:

    Stock system at LOW:

    Please note there is some light coming from the system and does partial illuminate the road in front, just not enough for the camera to capture. I

    [​IMG][/URL]

    LED system at LOW:

    [​IMG][/URL]


    I didn't bother to take a picture of high because all it does is activate the 3rd LED pad which is positioned on the bottom of the triangle and the OEM housing doesn't really have a way to reflect it so it adds a little more light over the front fender. Thinking about it now, the OEM lens is set up to reflect light for the high beam since they don't wire the low beam from the factory and when you install the LED bulb you end up with the low circuit pointing up instead of down so you get 2 LED pads using the upper part of the lens which is good and it does a good job pushing the light out. I suspect if i could some how flip the LED bulb 180 degrees so the 2 LED pads face down the light pattern won't be as good and if I turn on the high circuit it will be more noticeable. I am not going to mess with it since it is working well for my needs.

    Here is a wiring diagram showing how I did my wiring if anyone else wants to do this.

    [​IMG][/URL]