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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by RedlegDaddy, Jun 4, 2009.
I have searched with no luck. Can someone point me to the info on how to de-smog the 690 R?
There's probably some info in the monster threadfest. I'm just not sure that it's going to make much (if any) difference other than a small amount of weight loss. Computer controlled Fuel Injected engines have very little 'equipment' to remove. The cat in the factory exhaust being the biggest 'problem'. The one thing that kind of bothers me is the black canister that hangs off the right side of the bike, but that's just a cosmetic concern.
I'll be interested to see what results from this thread.
I just put on the new fuel filler cap and was wanting to remove the vent hose and was thinking it would be a good time to ditch the rest of the smog crap.
I tried searching the monster 690 thread but did not find anything.
hey bud....just did mine this week...
pull the canister....
2 tubes on the top of it....1 is the cap vent line...the 2nd line gets plugged....all done...
Here's what I did...
I do not have pics or a link, but ...
1. Remove hose from left side of throttle body and plug with a vacuum cap. I reused the spring clip to secure the cap.
2. Re-route the tank vent to a suitable location. I trimmed mine shorter and ran down next to the battery box to near the rear shock. I cut the end off at an angle so it is less prone to block with mud etc.
3. Disconnect the electrical plug from the solenoid valve on the evap plumbing. Use a 700 Ohm to 1k Ohm, 1 Watt resistor (RadioShack) and push the leads into the plug terminals with a needle nose pliers. Close up the connector/resistor with electrical tape and zip tie to the frame.
4. remove the canister, solenoid valve, clamp and extra plumbing.
5. Go ride...
I have never got a FI code so assume the resistor is doing its job.
Thanks, that is the way I did it. I wanted to ditch the evap can and that seems to work fine.
Do you still have the SE?
I'm on my 2nd SE and I think I will be keeping this one. There is something just stupid fun about being able to spin up the rear wheel and wheelie in just about any gear!
There is some directions on the frame itself near the smog canister. I was told by the dealer to have the re-map done before removing the canister. I unbolted the canister and then routed the fuel line near the shock and out the bottom of the bike. Then capped the other line. Done.
Actually, step 5 should be disconnect battery ,turn on ignition, turn off ignition, reconnect battery start and let idle for 15 minutes.
That sounds good. I haven't found anything on the smog removal either. On a other subject. I had a slow speed fall on my 2010 690 R. Fell in the snow on the right side. Which pushed the side plate into the radiator shield which in turn pulled the nutsert out of the right side radiator tank. Un knowing this I continued my ride and when stopping I noticed the engine front area coverd in anti freeze :huh. When I checked the radiator for fluid it was EMPTY !!!. AWE CRAP, So I just over heated my brand new bike. :eek1. Had the radiator welded and poured in the engine ice and did not reinstall the bolts through the radiator shield. I zip tied the shield to the new KTM factory radiator guard. I would suggest that you guys remove the two bolts on the top corners of the radiator shield and just zip tie it to frame. This will let the shield move arround a bit as you will find out when you do this. This will probably save your engine from over heating if you fall on either side of your bike. Tell me what you think ??
Pardon my electrical ignorance. If you disconnect the battery then turn on ignition then off, what happens ? Seems like there would be no juice to alter something.
I told myself I was keeping this bike stock but my commitment seems to be wavering…♂️