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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by TBob, Oct 30, 2009.
Uh, "crystal clear" oil is a bad sign. That means (oh crap) IT'S WATER!
Whats wrong with your FD?
nothing so far - just checking it out after the water x-ing.
Hey Camo Jo - went out last night to gather parts. Couldn't find anything went to Napa and Home depot.
No hose or fittings. So where did you get the stuff?
You disassembled the FD for inspection?
Better off just to examine the oil and maybe check the wiper on the big seal behind the wheel.
I should have been more clear - just changing the oils and re-greasing the splines.
When I read "tearing into" as a mechanic I take it that you pulled the FD and tore it down.
Checking oil after a crossing is the way to go. Once that fluid turns to milk you need many fuild changes to clear it of water.
In the 4x4 world I have found it easier to pull the cover off the diff and spray the inside with brake clean. That milky oil is tenacious.
Throttlemeister (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=494866) told me last year that he carries transmission oil with him, and will actually change the final-drive fluid right there next to the stream/river/water, or certainly before the end of a day of water. I don't know if any of you know him, but he's a good mechanic, a fearless traveler, and he has been seen wearing pink scrubs.
Given that I am beginning to delve into my own minor maintenance and upkeep of my '08 GSA and likely to experience some water crossings soon enough, what is the appropriate FD fluid to obtain and is it readily available at auto parts stores and such?
80/90 see the gspot faq
Final drive and transmission fluid should come out about the same as they go in. Your final drive fluid should not smell like rotten egg sewage crossed with pig shit. After drowning my bike in Panama, my transmission fluid was fine, but the final drive smelled like rotten egg sweage crossed with pig shit.
The R1100 has a breather on the final drive. I don't think the R1200 has this breather. If I'm serious about crossing water, I need to run a hose- 1/4 inch is all I need- from the breather port up to somewhere under the seat, in such a way that water won't drip into it.
I don't think the final drive should ever get hot. Mine doesn't. I can go 100mph, stop, and still touch it. At most, it's warm. I think that if it's hot, that's a completely different problem.
The few times i have had to get through a deep section of water even if it was short i just get out the duct tape and tape over the breather hole on my 1150GS and then take the tape off on the other side.
i have walked my 1150gs in Australia before in a deep section so did not get a wake to cause water getting into the air intake... not the best idea but it worked for me... had to get through... and as always walked the section a few times.
What would happen if I left a piece of duct tape over the breather port permanently?
Then the pressure will push oil through the seals.
All the vents on my FJ40 (both axles, t-case, trans, distributor, engine, compressor) have been extended to about eye height. the ends of the lines terminate with fuel filters which do a good job of keeping dust out.
This way if I do sink, the components will stay dry unitl I can rig my winch to drag the truck out of whatever mess I'm in.
All vents need to be extended. I can offer no advice on doing this to a bike though. I don't believe an air cooled mill should be submerged.
Ricohman I have pulled many an axle apart on 4x4s that the axle vents got submerged and nothing was done. Then the owners wonder why thier axles fail. Gear oil should not look like a vanilla shake Vent extensions would be necesarry for any bikes that have vents.
In my younger days....
Look at me play! (2k away from home and those are 37 inch tires under the water)
Look at me fix! (notice the third member that I rebuilt during the night on that picnic table)
Gotta love it I learned those lessons too! My son is 25 and learning them again He has a 1970 Bronco. I still have 2 Jeeps and IH Scout II.
A small fuel filter would look huge at the end of a 1/4 inch hose.
When I did my cannisterectomy, I pushed a short length of oilable-air-filter-foam up into the vent hose. Maybe this would be a good way to keep the final-drive vent hose clean, also.
I dont. I would not leave it there permanetly.
i take it off immediately after getting to the other side...
When i was on one of my Australia trips... i had a long water crossing, a section that was a floodway with a paved lane section. there was about 12 inches of water that was still or very slowly moving. I was not going to be able easily get the FD oil dropped out without waiting for some to shipped into the next town. And as you have stated before i felt it best to get the cycle to the final destination without causing damage. It was a quick solution to the problem of not getting water into the FD oil. I would not do it necessarily unless i was in a similar situation where i had to get across where i was not going to be creating much pressure, and then have to ride for a while. Here i nthe US i can easily get FD oil and just drop it out at the next resonable