Details on 2014 690 enduro r?

I'm pretty sure the residue is from the bottom fitting on the charcoal canister. Is there supposed to be a plug or vent hose attached to the bottom?

I added a PVC hose to vent it into the plastic slip plate under the engine.

I ripped mine off :)

Anybody get blinking FI codes on their 14s yet. Rolled out of the drive way this morning and it was struggling to idle and I was getting an FI blink. Didn't have time to check out the code running late for work. I'll have work on it tonight. Hopefully its a bad connection and not a pump at 6000miles

Any update? Anyone else put on a Rekluse on their 2014 690?

Is the correct product "EXP 3.0 auto-clutch"?
(Price: $749.00 SKU: RMS-6380)?

Fits the following models​

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KTM 690 Enduro R (09-15)​

How long should it take to "set the rings" in my 14? I just checked the oil after a long weekend of riding and it was low. Drained all the oil and was about 1L low! Bike has 2100 miles on it. This is the 3rd change, first at 600 miles, and 2nd at 1200miles. It had burned quite a bit at the 1200 mile change as well, which is why I changed it again (dark oil). At that change, I was extra sure to measure the amounts in and out of the bike. There are no leaks that I can find, and I was gentle with the RPM's during break in. I have a hard time believing in 900 miles the bike burnt about 1 liter of oil, that's more than half its capacity. The bike is not smoking or anything. There is trace amount of oil in the airbox, not much. I checked the breather hose setup as that was in the troubleshooting in the manual, and it it's all routed correctly. Called the dealer, and he says some of these can take multiple thousands to set, he recommended keep riding it and watch the oil (More Carefully, obviously).

Pretty bummed .

Any suggestions?

THANK YOU! Fixed the problem... Positive ABS cable not marked as such.

I was worried I somehow blew up the ABS system. For me, I actually really like it. I do a fair amount of road riding and ABS is quite a bonus....IMO.

Hey Scott, I'm at 7000km (4350 miles) on my 2014 and just about to do my 4th oil change, now the rings seem to be set and not having to add oil every week, be patient it will come. Oh and if you ever ride in -10c weather you only get around 190km on a tank, just a heads up!

Thanks, for the info.

How much was it burning?

Doing a 1000 Mile test to see how much oil is actually burning. I normally do more dual sporting on this bike, but man it's fun racking up street miles for this test. I'm thinking I'm going to run outta tire before oil - this bike still rocks.

try EVO 1 map this week (akra + uni filter + cut the end top of snorkel), excellent , the engine is more lineaire and more vivid (not sure is the good term???) throttle response is better.
For engine temps i don't know (today in Alpes = 10°) waiting for try in severe conditions , but it seems that it is better


thanks ""TTIME4FOUR"

I'm not sure, its always been something i wanted to calculate but never got around to doing, if I had to guess I would say 2.5-3 litres for thé 7000km. Let me know how much you add during your 1000 mile test.

I've read a few comments about the electrical whine that happens when you turn the key on. It's not the fuel pump as many have suggested - it's the fly-by-wire servo for the throttle.

You can test this yourself after turning on the key, before starting the engine, listen for the whine and then gently roll the throttle open - you'll hear the pitch of the sound change as the servo operates.

Hello

Anybody has an idea about this light 76514901044 - http://shop.dementor.ro/powerparts/produkt/173375/x2-headlight ?

how it is compared with stock?

Cristian

Hi all,
Being something of a short arse, I asked my KTM dealer to fit a 1" lowering link at the first service. I gave them the whole kit including fitting instructions. When I read them it said lower the fork legs in the triple clamps by the same amount.

When I collected the bike, the forks had only been dropped by 1/4". I challenged this and was told this was correct as they'd tested the suspension and it was the best position. Is this experience being put into practice or bull?

Even for a mechanical muppet like me I can rationalise that the geometry will be changed and the full lowering benefit not achieved?

Any other Kubalink users that she'd some light on the subject. Tending to think that Kubalink have probably thought this through and tested the results?

Cheers for any advice

Did you have correct sag front and rear before fitting the kubalink? Raising the fork a whole inch seems a lot to me, I wonder what would happen at full compression. If it was me, I'd have the forks modified to shorten their travel.

I lowered my wife's and raised the front forks 1" before if felt right.

How did they test the suspension????

You do realize that if you slide the forks up 1" you do not lower the front of the bike 1". Because the forks are not at 90 degrees to the earth it takes more like 1.4" travel to get 1" lower. Even sliding the forks up 1" seems like a lot. I'd remove the springs and bolt everything up and see just how far I could raise the forks before the tire hits something when bottomed before I'd ride it like that. If the tire doesn't hit with the fork bottomed then you'd be ok. But from my past experience lowering lots of bikes for my wife, I'd say you'll need shorter springs and spacers to lower the front 1" (1.4 shorter).

Does anybody know if you need a shorter kickstand when you lower the 690 with the KoubaLink KTM8-2 ? (1" 5/8)

Thanks

When I installed the 1 inch link I went with 1/2 to 3/4 inch change, as per the following from the Kouba website. Seems good to me:
[SIZE=-1]
To change the front, loosen the front fork triple clamp pinch bolts and slide the fork tubes up, the clamps may need to be spread slightly after loosening the clamp bolts to allow the tubes to slide. We recommend only sliding the tubes up until there is .750” showing above the top triple clamp not counting the thickness of the rebound clicker knob. Be sure both tubes are set exactly the same. They can be slid up farther until they almost touch the underside of the handle bars if desired. That should lower the front about 1” but may make it turn too quickly and cause some instability. We do not recommend sliding the fork tubes up farther by using bar risers, etc., because that may allow the tire to hit the fender when the forks are bottomed. [/SIZE]

Not sure about the 1 5/8 link, but from threads here, seems 5/8 to 3/4 inch shorter is about right for the 1 inch lowering link. I haven't shortened my sidestand yet but it's definitely too long if there's any uphill slope on left side of bike.

Guess I should probably buy the shorter SMC kickstand before installing the lowering link.. heheh