Dewalt Charger and Cordless Drill Chuck Question

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by MrPulldown, May 2, 2016.

  1. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Bought a dewalt 14.4v hammer drill almost 25 years ago. Looks like this and I believe it is a DW996. Great drill. Had both batteries rebuilt once. Love the pistol grip. Old 2 speed model with plastic gears. Recall it was a refurbished unit. I know those new 20v Li Ion units are really nice. Small and powerful. But I am not in the market for a new drill (or so I thought).

    [​IMG]

    A month or so ago the charger up and died. I used the last bit of juice I had in the batteries to drill out the security fasteners and opened it up. This is what I found:
    [​IMG]

    I suspect that the main fuse is burnt out. It is the glass fuse that I circled in red. On the circuit it is the first component after the + input. The glass is all burnt out. It does not read continuity. Should I de solder it and replace? Any advice. I know I have to use some desoldering tape. What kind of replacement fuse?

    In the mean time I searched ebay for a replacement. Ends up chargers hold their value. However old drills with dead batteries do not. For the price (or really close) of a used charger I could easily get an old drill + charger + bad battery (but you can rebuild them) + case. I decided to look on craigslist as well, and sure enough there was someone selling a drill + charger + batteries right down the street. The drill he was selling was DCD939VX. Basically my drill but newer; metal gears, upgraded chuck, 3 speed (higher speed), more torque.
    [​IMG]
    I liked this unit so much that I decided to use it instead of my older drill. The chuck is a very nice unit, and the fact that the spindle doesn't spin allows you to open/close the chuck without running the motor.

    I was using this drill to drill a hole in my front brake caliper for a Vapor wheel sensor and noticed that the drill bit had a bit of run out. Nothing bad, and hardly noticeable when driving screws, but noticeable when drilling a 1/8" hole. So the spindle is bent. Is this part of the chuck or something deeper within the drill. Will replacing a new chuck solve this?
    #1
  2. SnoDrtRider

    SnoDrtRider I've been lost here before...

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    The run out is likely from a bent shaft. I used to play the DeWalt game my first purchase was the largest kit offered at the time with 18V Hammer Drill, Reciprocating Saw, Circular Saw and Light. A battery would go bad so you buy a battery. Then another battery and/or one of the tools would act up so what do you do? For the price of two batteries you could get a complete drill kit with a battery and charger... next thing you know... It just goes on and on.
    Finally I decided that I had enough of the shell game and bought Makita. Sure the batteries go but all the tools are better built and last longer.
    #2
  3. CA_Strom

    CA_Strom Cunning Linguist Supporter

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    Same here... I was a DeWalt buyer for a long time. Still regret dumping my 18 volt kits cheap at a garage sale due to dead batteries. Now they have an adapter that will update them to the newer Li-Ion batteries!

    Having said that, I made the jump the Milwaukee M12 Lithium gear and have not looked back. Much better build quality, form factor, and a huge variety of M12 and M18 tools that DeWalt can't touch with their offerings. My M12 drill and 1/4" ratchet get used heavily and they've both been great. CPO Tools has some great deals on all makes of tools refurbished. I've bought a few pieces from them and been very happy with the quality. I've moved to having one charger and then buying bare tools cheaply... http://www.cpooutlets.com/
    #3
  4. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Ok thanks guys to telling me that DeWalt sucks. In fact years ago I discovered that it was really just re branded black and decker stuff. The current 20v offerings (even the cheapest Walmart stuff) all seems to be better than my drill. When I learned about rebuilding battery packs (~$30 at batteries plus) it really opened a new door for me.

    But back to my question.
    -Can I swap out the fuse and get my charger working again. Anyone with experience
    -Can I swap out the chuck and get the drill bit to have less run out.
    #4
  5. muddywater

    muddywater Bless Your Heart

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    The fuse blew for a reason. ..
    #5
  6. Mobil1

    Mobil1 Long timer

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    It's probably the shaft , not the chuck.
    #6
  7. Mobil1

    Mobil1 Long timer

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    Probably , but not necessarily.
    #7
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  8. RVDan

    RVDan Long timer

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    The fuse is not there to protect the circuits, it's there to keep it from catching fire.

    Attach some jumper leads and hook to another fuse and make sure your face is well away from the capacitors that are going to blow out.
    #8
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  9. SnoDrtRider

    SnoDrtRider I've been lost here before...

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    I answered the question in my first sentence it' the shaft not the chuck...

    Just trying to keep you from falling into the Dewalt money pit you get homeowner quality at professional prices.
    #9
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  10. LJRAT

    LJRAT LJR Adventure Tours

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    My maintenance team and myself are sold on the quality, reliability and productivity of the Dewalt 20v-3ah tools and batteries!
    #10
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  11. dravnx

    dravnx Been here awhile

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    If'n it was me, I would replace the fuse and see what happens. A couple of test leads and a $.50 fuse from Radio Slop will tell you everything you need to know.
    #11
  12. RVDan

    RVDan Long timer

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    Yes, do it! It's exciting!
    #12
  13. Mobil1

    Mobil1 Long timer

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    At worst it blows the fuse.
    #13
  14. SnoDrtRider

    SnoDrtRider I've been lost here before...

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    I see the making of a You Tube video here...
    #14
  15. GreaseMonkey

    GreaseMonkey Preshrunk & Cottony

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    I'm sure some here would be horrified, but I'd leave the old fuse in place and piggyback the new fuse on top of it. If I was being really lazy and didn't feel like tracking down an AGW fuse or whatever that is I'd just use an AGC and if I couldn't find one of those I'd think about bridging it with an ATO fuse, just have the amperage be the same. If the new fuse blows, then you can start troubleshooting but as mentioned sometimes they will occasionally burn out for no particular reason kinda like light bulbs. I would look closely at the big electrolytic capacitor next to the fuse though for signs of bulging or leaking.
    #15
  16. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    SO I attached a couple of jumper to the fuse. Attached a 30 amp fuse to bypass the blown fuse. Then plugged the cord in. I did plug it into a power strip, instead of directly into the wall. I should have wore some more protection. I did look away from the circuit board when I plugged it in. Well the "coil" part blew. Pretty loud pop and smoke. I screamed like a little girl. Wife came down stairs to check on me.

    Very

    The fuse never blew
    I should have.

    Hard to tell from the picture but the coil part is all burnt/melted
    [​IMG]

    Here is the back side of the board
    [​IMG]

    Well now I know that it was not just a bad fuse. And was able to clear out some space in my tool cupboard by throwing this and the case away.

    Thanks all.
    #16
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  17. RetiredandRiding

    RetiredandRiding Retired to Ride Supporter

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    WRONG. Fuses are wire protectors. The coil blew because the 30A bypass fuse was too big allowed too much current through. It was the weakest link. Had it taken longer to blow, you could've felt the wire heating up.

    Fuses are sized what they are for a reason. And, contrary to what an earlier poster said in #7, fuses don't blow without cause. They blow because something is pulling too much current. It may've been the coil, but now you'll never know and now it's moot.

    +1 on Makita
    #17
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  18. rapidoxidationman

    rapidoxidationman Easily trainable

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    Fuses blow because something in the circuit is trying to pull more amps than it was designed for. In a healthy circuit, no fuse is necessary. The fuse is only there for when something goes awry.

    +1 more on Makita.
    #18
  19. ydarg

    ydarg Miscreant

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    Guess the fuse was popped for a reason.

    I have a Hitachi 18V 5AH hammer drill, highly recommend it if you need to drill lots o holes in concrete and stone. Also have a M18 drill and driver set, the brushless motors are sweet. New cordless drills are light years ahead of that relic for not much more money.
    #19
  20. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    I regularly use a newer 20v li ion drill/driver. I agree that they are nice. But I have not had a big job that would justify getting rid of my old drill. Trust me I love to buy tools.

    I have a large plug in Bosch hammer drill that I use when I really need to drill holes in concrete.
    #20