Hey Guys, I promised a few of the fellas who helped me in this thread I would document my install. The bike is kinda dirty and my garage is a mess so apologies ahead of time. If i were to wait till both were clean, it would never happen. BACKGROUND 2012 KTM 990. Last summer on the Oregon BDR I had a dead battery one morning in the middle of nowhere. Thanks to the InReach Communicator, my awesome wife and inmates here, I made it out of the bush in one piece. When I got back I swore to the missus and myself I would not let it happen again. So, plan was to figure out the problem, install a voltmeter and checkout battery and charging system. VOLTMETER: On the recommendation of an inmate, I installed a voltmeter from Datel. Live to the switched accessory line and ground to battery. It's about 0.5V lower than what the battery reads but it is consistent. It installs cleanly into the lighter socket space and I moved the socket up onto the dash. BATTERY: My dead battery was a stock Yuasa battery. The only battery I could find when out of the bush was a WPS (western power sports) LiFePO4 battery in Klamath Falls, OR. It got me home. Over the winter, I didn't bother to put the bike on a trickle (I know) but would start it for kicks every now and then with no problem. When installing the Rade headlight this spring, I ended up killing the battery simply by having the bike on a bit with the headlight on. Nothing crazy so obviously battery wasn't that hot to begin with. I looked around the forum to try and find the best battery possible. There are a few battery experts on here and the best suggestion I could find was an EarthX 24C battery with 24 Equivalent Amp Hours. For comparison, the WPS battery was rated for less than 5 amp hours. Plus, the EarthX batteries come equipped with battery management software for balancing cells and managing charging. Given the non-electronic charging of batteries that the bike does, I thought proper charging would best be manages with the BMS. The battery is only as good as its last charge. VOLTAGE REGULATOR/RECTIFIER: I evaluated mine as per Jack from Roadstercycle.com who was very helpful with everything. Basically, with the headlight on or off the best I could get was 13.6v at the battery terminals and no increase with increasing throttle to 5K. I cleaned and dielectrically greased all connections and got an improved 13.8v. Never did I see anything between 14-15V as the service manual suggests. Instead of assuming the system was ok, I figured I'd replace it with something better - enter the MOSFET idea. PARASITIC LEAK: I checked to see if there was a significant parasitic draw on the battery. By putting the multimeter into ammeter mode, You simply disconnect ground from battery and use the ammeter to link the battery to the bike ground cable. Doing this indicated my parasitic draw was around 1mA which is within spec.