After playing with the base gaskets and deck height I'd check the cam timing - Suzuki isn't especially careful in getting it right to start with and it will have changed if deck height changed. Glad its running
Took a little longer than 6 months. Not completely done but this is the first time shes been completely dressed! To do: break in final jetting steering stops fix erratic tach readings rebuild and respring the shock (RaceTech ordered) rebuild and respring the forks (RaceTech ordered) TrailTech 8" HID headlight (ebay ordered)
You are very hard on my wallet! after seeing all the fun you're having it makes me want to do it all over again. I really like riding but I think i like building projects even more so.
Damn - that looks good! Dunno if you've seen this, but he seems to have some pretty neat break-in theories. Time to get it dirty!
In short, yes, however you will find that it depends on the api rating of the oil. Too slippery oil and you might have problems with the clutch. Also car oils do not always have gearbox additives in them.
The oil topic is a HUGE can of worms -- I would take any oil advice (other than the bike manufacturer's) with a grain of salt. Personally I use a cheap, easily available synthetic car oil for my DR -- I have had no issues, clutch or otherwise.
I drove up the block and back and the clutch was pretty sad, so I ordered a heavy duty rebuild kit from ProCycle. Soak the cork. The patient is open. New clutch drive plates and driven plates. New heavy duty springs (although they seem identical to the ones I replaced). Aside from soaking the cork overnight, replacing the clutch parts took less than an hour and it's better.
Now that's the headlight I wanted on there! It just showed up today as I was finishing the clutch. A license plate was also installed today so nothing was holding me back from riding to the gas station for a maiden voyage. Twice!! Not on purpose, I found the front end in the air while in traffic. That 12 tooth CS is ridiculous (in a good way)!
*drool* Amazing work. I love the style of the bike and even on my stock dr350 I bet the 12 tooth front sprocket would be pretty crazy so I can only imagine on yours you can have loads of fun. I've been debating boring out my 350 and getting the top end redone just like you did. What did it end up costing to get the whole top end redone?
Both Muggy "weld" joints failed on the oil cooler during a break in run this morning. They didn't blow off or anything but they leaked really bad. My left boot is now well oiled. I made it home while there was still some oil in the bike. Removed the oil cooler for now and changed the remaining oil. Changed to a 14th CS, much more practical for the road. On the break in run the bike stumbled a bit at WOT, probably need to drop the main jet size. Fixed the erratic Vapor tach readings by cutting my fancy hard wire to the coil and running an inch of the tach pickup line parallel with the coil lead (no wraps) as referenced here. There is a white/red wire from the CDI that goes to the factory tack. I was hoping to use that for the Vapor tach signal but there was no signal coming from it (maybe it uses resistance instead?). Probably try some more break in runs in the morning.
