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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by DisTech, Nov 27, 2009.
I would maybe take the 99SE head off yer if you have no use for it.
Are there any issues with auto decomp on this bike? Do you know what years had it?
94 on.. I believe, pretty reliable, just more stuff, harder to do a compression test and the cam cost more. Also i think the aftermarket cam for the auto decomp head comes without it. So your back to no compression release unless you rig your own. might be a problem with a big bore at 12:1.
DisTech you have a pm.
My buddy (and expert wrencher) told me the DR has the manual compression and the auto, but doesn't really need the auto. He used to own one and took off the auto decompresser. He said he never missed it one bit.
The automatic compression release is built into the cam.
As I recall only the e-start motors have the auto compression release. The kick-start motors have the manual lever. Never seen one with both
I thought later model off road DR's had the auto decomp mechanism as well, but could be wrong about that. Jcallis would know I think.
>"I thought later model off road DR's had the auto decomp mechanism as well"
Yes, my 1995 DR 350 (manual start) has an auto decomp mechanism as well.
Hmm in the service manual a de-compression lever adjustment is listed for every year, but automatic de-comp service data is only for 94 and then there is a reference to "Compression pressure (Automatic-decomp. actuated)" for 96 and 97. I tried looking at Ronayers and Mrcycles but that just made it more confusing.
I thought automatic de-comp was for electric start bikes and manual de-compression was for kick start. Anyway, I want a de-comp lever so I'm going to get a different head.
Took the rest of the stuff off the 93 frame. The street frame sure has a bunch more brackets and mount points than the dirt frame.
I think maybe I'll grind a few off, especially this one that's mashed anyway (hope it's not important).
I've read that pressing the DR stem out and using it in the new triples is the easiest way to do a for swap. It looks doable, the base of the DR stem is 30mm and I think the KTM stem is 29mm.
Any advice on getting those bearing off?
That slot in the DR stem is for that little lock on the steering column to engage (thought that was funny).
Mine was stuck tight as well, clamped it in a vice & belted it with a big hammer on a steel drift
To get the bearings off just press the stem out and the bearings will come off as you press the stem out.
The brackets are weird. On my Kickstart model (Road Legal) I have passenger footpeg brackets on the left side but not the right side.?? WTF!!
Just had a measure of the stem on my YZF clamps. 30mm. Mine might be a real easy fit !!
Thanks Mezo and Phil.
Started tearing down the '94.
Does that look like a lot of oil to you? It looks like more than 1700ml to me!
Triples from '93 street left and '94 dirt right.
Next time keep the light in the same spot & out of camera shot
Ha! Good thing you didn't see the boom mic!
Thank-you for demonstrating such wonderfull skill in your presentation of the rebuild process. Following this thread is like reading a prize-winning novel.
this is a great build, i did my dr350  bigbore last winter . here is what i am running 435 big bore, ground header, opened up stock muffler, drop in cam, fcr 37mm carb, ported head, no base gasket, 0 squash band,as of this weekend dr250 cdi. next i have a complete front end off my husaberg fe501 wp 50mm extreme that i am going to adapt to it. i am thinking of lightening the flywheel and also going to the dr250 for more timing ,but am wondering about detination,this build has enspired me to complete my bike thanks.
I have seen a 1996 offroad model with both. From what I can understand, the head change (with auto decomp cam) was needed for the e-start dualsport models. Suzuki kept the provision for manual decomp on these new heads so one part could be used for both bikes. E-start bikes will not have the decom shaft and the un-needed hole is simply plugged inside. The 1994 off-road models should have the newer auto decomp cam and the manual decomp lever. You can kick these bikes without using the lever, but it helps to get the kick start lever in the correct starting position before the kick.
It is also useful for clearing a flooded cylinder after crashing (I have a lot of experience with this) Hold the lever down and kick-kick-kick