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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by DisTech, Dec 13, 2008.
Been using that trick for years. No need to buy an expensive tool.
This thread has been sitting for a while, any updates??
Curious, how does it ride, did you need to alter the settings on the emulators for any reason for different conditions, road/dirt?
I just drilled the holes on mine, and then I realized AFTER THE FACT that with a milling machine, if the center holes had the center point moved 3mm upward instead of just drilling the hole larger, each hole would have been approximately 10mm apart as shown in the race tech diagram. However, they never mention doing this, just making the holes larger, which to most people means leaving the center points on the holes alone.
I wonder if any difference could be noted from doing it the other way? I have 2 sets of forks, one I got NOS (new old stock) for my 1990 for very cheap about 4 years ago when I actually planned on doing all this work. Maybe after I install these extra forks with the work done, i'll pull the dampers on the forks that came with the bike and test those out with the holes actually drilled to the diagram specs.
I also wonder what Race Tech would say as to whether it matters.
Rick @ Cogent gave great advice on the emulators and spring rates. I just assembled them and really doubt the hole spacing makes any difference. I'm very happy with the ride on and off road. In my opinion the forks work as good as forks with emulators can work. If you want something better, you'd need to upgrade to cartridge forks as many have done.
Making a dualsport kit for my DR350 got me looking at light weight lithium ion phosphate (LiFePO4) battery packs.
<img src="http://www.indysuperbike.com/image.php?productid=1192541" height="300" />
That lead me to thinking about a lighter weight battery for the DR650. So, I found these guys at tlzone.net, Lithium Starting Battery. Interesting thread that shows how to DIY.
<img src="http://s94153639.onlinehome.us/motorcycles/TSTLR/Battery/Battery1.jpg" height="300" />
Does anyone have any experience with LiFePO4 batteries on their dualsport?
<table border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"><tr><td bgcolor="#575757"><table border="0" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="4"><tr bgcolor="#404040"><td><img src="http://www.yuasabatteries.com/images/batteries/YTX9-BS.jpg" height="200" /></td><td>Yuasa YTX9-BS</td><td>Acid</td><td>6 lbs</td><td>$50</td></tr><tr bgcolor="#404040"><td><img src="http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc310_lg.jpg" height="200" /></td><td>Odyssey PC310</td><td>AGM</td><td>5.9 lbs</td><td>$160</td></tr><tr bgcolor="#404040"><td><img src="http://etx9.com/images/letx9.jpg" height="200" /></td><td>Deka ETX9</td><td>AGM</td><td>6.3 lbs</td><td>$65</td></tr><tr bgcolor="#404040"><td><img src="http://www.indysuperbike.com/image.php?productid=1192546" height="200" /></td><td>FullSpectrum P4 Speedcell</td><td>LiFePO4</td><td>2.9 lbs</td><td>$425!</td></tr><tr bgcolor="#404040"><td><img src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider-photobucket-images/images/M/Maviryk_A123%2520Battery_IMG_0480.jpg" height="200" /></td><td>Maviryk Design: A123 12cell</td><td>LiFePO4</td><td>2.1 lbs</td><td>$225</td></tr><tr bgcolor="#404040"><td><img src="http://www.batteryspace.com/ProductImages/customize/5033.jpg" height="200" /></td><td>Generic LiFePO4 26650 pack (wire gauge is not heavy enough)</td><td>LiFePO4</td><td>2.5 lbs</td><td>$142</td></tr><tr bgcolor="#404040"><td><img src="http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00NBnEqYogrcbZ/LiFePO4-A123-Cell-Battery-26650-.jpg" height="200" /></td><td>Ebay DIY single cell 'buy it now' is about $10</td><td>LiFePO4</td><td>1.8 lbs</td><td>$120</td></tr></table></td></tr></table>
Is there any reason you just wouldn't use a battery eliminator to save weight? I had one on my 650, but got tired of putting the thing in and out for inspections.
No kicker on the DR650 SE model, so the battery eliminator is a bad idea.
AH! I forgot about this because I have a 1990 which is kick only, and I have a WR250f, which if I didn't care about the e-start, also has a kicker.
Then again, who wants to carry around the weight of an e start and not use it?:huh
Just read through this entire thread, and wanted to say that you did an excellent job on the build and the documentation of the project. I'm currently contemplating buying a DR650 and this thread definitely gave me some good ideas, and inspiration for a project of my own!
Thanks DisTech. I was searching for some info and this thread popped up. Read the entire thing and you did an outstanding job. I love to see work planned out and new fabrication done to improve an already good product.
I just picked up a used 08 650 with 3600 miles and tore it all down to start the suspension and headlight rebuild, along with a few other things. Your thread was awesome and has great info for me and others alike. Thanks again.
Ive got about 1500 miles on my battery that I built from the A123 cells in my FZ700 and I have another 500 miles on the one in my DR350
My buddy has one in his ZX10, his DR400 and his jetski...in short..we love these things
We also use the anderson power connectors because they are so handy
Hey Noah, thanks for posting the sweet DIY LiFePO4 action! I was kinda surprised at the lack of response to my battery table.
I discovered (after I made that post) this thread, Ultra Light Batteries by herrhelmet. High quality light weight batteries from an inmate. herrhelmet has been great to deal with. I got one for a DR350 project and once I'm through with that will probably be getting one for the DR650.
Been watching ebay for an 8" light from Baja Designs or Trail Tech for a long time. Used ones never seem to come up and new ones... might as well go direct, until a couple weeks ago. There's one guy selling new Trail Tech Eclipse HID's for $415, hmm... not bad. I was considering it. Then, at lunch, last week I loaded the ebay app on my phone and searched... unused Trail Tech Eclipse HID $375! That was an expensive lunch.
So long for now Commando Cody!
My unit came with the light, frame, HID unit, HID unit mounting plate, enough cabling with inline fuse to go direct to the battery and an on/off switch (incidentally the same type push button switches the HDB uses). The HID unit is fixed to the plate with double sided tape and zip ties (I don't like the way the zip ties look on top).
The provided wiring for the light is simple and separate from the bikes ignition switch. Anyone could turn the light on and off at any time.
Not liking the idea of having to remember to turn the light on and off or anyone else having the ability to turn the light on and off, I decided to replace the switch with a relay that is activated by the high beam switch.
Had to relocate the ignition switch which also means I lost my steering lock. The Vapor is mounted with the cheapo plastic one that comes with it and I don't have the turn/neutral/high indicators attached right now. When I make a better dash and I'll probably ditch the blob of metal stock ignition switch for a lighter simpler one.
The 8" round light and low front turn signals really change the look. Something primitive about it. The turn signals are mounted on upside down DR350 reflector mounts.
Need to make the ignition switch smaller or get a different one. To see what's what the switch had to come apart. Had to drill the heads off some weird screws with cone shaped tops to get the switch apart. They were under the little black caps that came off first. May be able to drop the locking bolt at the base, but it will require a new base.
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Finally got around to checking the NSU screws. Did an oil change at the same time so I didn't even have to lay the bike down.
How do you like my "Clutch Sleeve Hub Holder [09920-53740]" alternative?
The original screws were snug as could be expected for screws holding a piece of plastic in hot oil for 15 years, but they were snug. Probably wouldn't have had a problem.
Now, I definitely wont have a problem.
I'm slow. Call me slow.
But where did you get the safetywire-bolts, or did you drill'em yo'self?
As mentioned above, I did get a battery for the 650 from herrhelmet.
1.5lbs vs 5.5lbs
What am I going to do with all that space?
Anecdotal, but the bike fires up with much less effort now.
TESTCYCL has good stuff.
I replaced the screws with stainless steel allen head bolts that I drilled for safety wire. It's pretty easy to drill stainless and really easy with a drill press.
trying to save weight, get rid of the battery box its steel